[Closed] Stanton Slackline 631 18" long w 100m rigid fork as do-it-all bike? Yay or nay

No idea about the angles. But if "at the end of the day, this is largely about aesthetic", then rigid forks are going to look funny with that big head tube.

Also a bit about playfulness and comfort, Idk, don't think the beefy head tube looks bad, better than my current tapered one!

I can't quite make a decision, maybe if I could visualise the Switchback with a rigid fork somehow, but alas no such drawing exists.

Like this but a bit longer and no red.

Aaand, I meant Switchback 631 18" long.

I have a Switchback (I assume you're talking about this bike, not the Slackline as in your thread title). Amazing at what it was made for, but I wouldn't want to commute on it (unless my commute was at least 50% rad singletrack descents). It's also not that playful until you get it pointing downwards. Maybe look at a jump bike frame?

I have a Switchback (I assume you’re talking about this bike, not the Slackline as in your thread title). Amazing at what it was made for, but I wouldn’t want to commute on it (unless my commute was at least 50% rad singletrack descents). It’s also not that playful until you get it pointing downwards. Maybe look at a jump bike frame?

Pretty much this apart from the commute bit which it'd be fine for if it's your only bike and you have to make it work for everything. It [u]will[/u] be shit with 100mm forks in it though, mine's got 130mm in and that's about spot on for what I use it for (ie everything cos it's me only bike) I reckon. The BB's pretty low but the short back end means it's still fairly easy to hop and manual about the place.

Here's my mk1 with 130mm forks for reference, sorry for the shit quality but you get the idea-

[img] [/img]

It's ace, it'll do everything I want it to really well but for actual bunny hoppy and manually rock-hard 100mm fork stair-based laughs I'd be looking at a long DJ bike that could take a dropper.

Good point twrch, but jump bike frames aren't long enough generally. Or are they Kayla? Thanks for the pics, why do you reckon it'd be so bad? I posted the adjusted geo further up, similar to what people use for DJ bikes! Apart from the low BB. Problem with pure DJ frames is that the seat tube is too low.

The slackline is again a bit too small in 18" and too barndoorsy in 19.5", looked at the Cotic Soul in medium which is also "long", similar geo, but don't fancy any of the colors or the tapered HT, otherwise I think it could be spot on.

First gen BFe 275s were pretty long with a high-ish BB and it looks like they'd work correctly with 100mm forks too because the seat angles were too slack with longer forks-

https://www.cotic.co.uk/product/BFe275#sizing

First gen BFE was a bit too short again in medium, and with a too high ST in large.

Maybe repaint a cotic soul in medium hmm.. argh, doesn't have a chainstay bridge, hard to attach fenders then in the winter..

I'm 6'5", and the 18" Switchback would be not much fun to ride for very long on the flat. I have a very long seatpost with a layback (it's bent backwards), and I'm still too low and forwards for a "proper" pedalling position. I also run 160mm fork with a very short stem, which makes it great for DH, but I'm not sure how it would handle a relatively long stem with very short forks. For a start, your weight would be tipped further forwards and downwards.

The reason the equivalent Slackline is 19.5" is because it is designed for more pedalling. Not sure why the preoccupation with "barndoorsy-ness", but the price you pay for being tall is that your bikes are bigger. A Slackline-type frame will still be long and low, compared to a bike that actually fits you and is designed for commuting (eg, a 60cm road bike).

Are you looking to buy a new frame? They don't come up often 2nd hand.

Is that the long 18" switchback? The geo would end up nearly the same as my current frame so I don't see any major problems, other than perhaps the low BB?

My problems with barndoors are 1) looks bad IMO, very retro mismatching the other components 2) less playful, higher center of gravity and it's harder to bail.

Ideally I'd buy a used frame, I saw a slackline 631 in grey non-long for sale recently. Summarized what I'm looking for: a long and low steel frame

Seat tube <= 18" / 450 mm
Reach > 440 mm
Chainstay 415 - 425 mm incl a chainstay bridge for attaching fenders
Chainring clearance 36T officially (so you can squeeze on a 40T ring)
Works with 100 mm rigid forks (453mm axle to crown) without HA going over 68 deg, ST over 75 deg and BB drop lower than 55mm.

Bonus points: >2kg, eyelets for rear fenders, straight headtube, seatstay bridge, dark paint.

Pace?

Good points from twrch about how it's going to pedal on "lots of commuting and some XC." Headangle and BB drop might be fine for you, but you'll have a steeper seat tube which is going to shove even more weight onto your hands. good for steep climbs maybe, not so go for a balanced long ride pedaling position.

very retro mismatching the other components

Not to be mean, but you're running a long stem and riser bars.

The geo would end up nearly the same as my current frame

Not really. The small differences (and some of them are not so small) are quite critical.

Apart from looks, you don't need a seat tube that short. Sure, it helps bailing, but you don't need one that low for commuting and XC. Playful is relative - the Switchback is a playful DH bike. A gravel bike is a playful road bike. Not really related to seat tube length. I only bring it up as you are passing up on bikes that are much more suited to what you want.

Pace could work, although hard to find use I reckon and not a fan of the colors, don't know how much it weighs either, don't see why it would be better than the Switchback?

keep the brand x. seems spot on for what you do. A short rigid fork would ruin a slackline. They designed to rowdy riding with a longer travel fork. Would have thought the head angle of the brand x is ideal for your useage.

Not to be mean, but you’re running a long stem and riser bars.

80 mm is ideal in my eyes and functions well, both longer and shorter looks off for this kind of hybrid do it all - used to run short stems. You prefer flat bars? lol.

Not really. The small differences (and some of them are not so small) are quite critical.

Ok, so which ones will make a critical impact? The ST angle, reach and HT angle would be within 1 degree or 10 mm.

I'd rather have a dedicated roadbike/commuter, plus a dedicated mountainbike/playbike, but don't have the budget currently. Plus there might be something to be said for using a burlier bike with bigger tires and brakes in traffic from a safety perspective. More traction and stopping power.

@trumpton the brandx is fine, but as I've noted, the Switchback would get about the same geo with a 453mm axle to crown rigid fork and I want a lower, prettier, steel frame. The paintjob on the brandx is shite and flakes off like crazy.

You prefer flat bars? lol.

No, I prefer what works for a particular bike. I actually have low risers on the Switchback. Just saying - you're making your life much more difficult by worrying about the aesthetics - it's already hard enough to make a "do it all" bike.

The hardtails you're looking at are at the hardcore end of things, and would make a poor compromise for commuting. It's just a waste to by a hardcore HT frame and put rigid forks on it. I'd also never leave mine locked up in the city centre.

and I want a lower, prettier, steel frame.

If you can't afford the bikes to do what you actually want, I can only advise not to spend money on an expensive frame because its pretty. In fact, the best advice might be to keep your commuter as it is, and buy a 2nd hand complete hardtail. If you drop your requirements for super-low seat tube and steel, you'll get a bike that will be as much fun as you want at XC and cheaper than a new Stanton frame. Anyway, I'm just arguing now because I like arguing on the internet, and should probably stop.

Aesthetics, but also feel and functionality. First world problem? Yes, but for something you use daily, it makes life a bit more fun to use kit that you love.

The upside of using a hardcore hardtail frame is that it's bombproof, more fun to mess around with commuting on one wheel, will last forever, and it's more versatile should I decide to head to the woods at the expense of just 400 grams, which shouldn't slow me down on flat tarmac. I can also slap a suspension fork on some burly tires on it for full on DH use. What's the benefit of getting a larger/taller frame when there are smaller/lower "long" frames? I only see downsides.

As for locking it up, it's already too expensive to leave outside, but get an ABUS Granite 540 u lock, non QR front wheel and dropper "locks" and insurance that covers theft outside of the house and you'll feel a bit better. It's not an expensive frame used, it's the custom BTR £1500 frame I can't afford at the moment 😉

Given your recent threads asking about lighter components, faster commuter bikes, and cheap carbon road bikes, I don't think you know what you want, except you don't like your current bike, and that you like to wheelie.

FWIW, I have an old steel commuter bike that I love, because it's incredible at what it does, carries everything including my small son, is nice and smooth to ride, and will last forever. I love my Stanton too, but I'd hate to take it out in all weathers, on salty roads, and bash a lock against it several times a day. Right tool for the right job 🙂

Hmm, I reckon keep the frame you've got and save up for the one you do want. Anything else will just be a compromise, and nobody wins in a compromise 🙂 That £xxx you chuck at a frame now could go towards a BTR.

edit- want a 'faster' commuter? Just pedal harder!

I was indeed looking for an faster commuter bike, but gave up on the idea for now. Maybe I'll test a CAAD10 or something one day, but like the simplicity of having one bike and potentially the added safety of my current one. Used to ride a Columbus steel 105 equipped racer I got for next to nothing, quite brilliant and 0 faff, sold it before moving overseas (it came with the paintjob).

My current bike is great, and the geo is good as is, but the frame has poor paint quality, is a bit taller than what I'd like and I simply don't like the look or feel of alu, so here I am going on about my ultimate (budget) steel frame.

I'll keep a lookout for a used Switchback 18" long and start saving up for that BTR..

You have been asking about this sort of bike for a long time, and I think you've posted at least 4 threads about it. I think, for your rather specific requirements (and for the fact that you ignore everyone's advice about the sort of bike you seem to insist on being a bit shit), you'll have to go custom. Maybe speak to Marino to get a custom steel frame made for your budget?

https://www.marinobike.com/

Ime, running a frame with a shorter fork than it was designed for will feel a bit crap to ride, i had an orange P7, i stuck a short(er) fork on that for commuting and it felt pretty crap tbh, as well as making the bb too low.
By all means get the stanton and run it rigid, but you need the correct length fork on it or it will feel crap.
IMHO.
Ymmv.

Thanks munro, am aware of marino! For now just seeing if I can find something close to what I want used. And I'm not ignoring anyone, i'm asking why they claim what they claim, see below. Also the Pace tip was good, just hard to find one used.

Martymac: but why would it feel crap if the geo numbers end up being the same as your current non crap frame? Am I missing something? The difference between a 493 mm (140mm fork 25% sagged) to 453 mm (100mm rigid) crown to axle doesnt equate to more than a 12 mm further BB drop down to 55 mm which is fine?

Ok, you are about right. Replacing your current MTB frame with another one with similar geometry will have about the same result - a bike that isn't great to commute on and is no good for MTB unless you change the tyres and fork.

Edit: And the Switchback takes all the things that are a compromise for commuting in the wrong direction, which seems silly as you apparently don't MTB.

You don't give up do you?

It's great to commute on if you like a somewhat upright position, the risers also give you the option of holding the bar by the stem to get lower. TT bar commuting is not for me.

It's great to go offroad with too (just not proper downhill or in the wet), just a total lack of hills and trails where I live for the next 6 months. If I move somewhere with proper trails I could dedicate it to MTB-in full time, I don't care too much about going down fast anyways, prefer going up fast.

I don't actually commute to work, but use the bike as my primary means of transportation, and I like to have fun doing so, hence looking for a lower frame (beyond just wanting a sick looking bike).

You don’t give up do you?

No, I find it theraputic to argue on the internet

I don’t care too much about going down fast anyways, prefer going up fast.

One last go. A Switchback will be a bit worse in most ways that your current "get around bike" - heavier, slacker, needs a taller seatpost, rider weight distribution, and lower BB. Your wheels and headset won't fit, so you'll have to spend a bunch more converting it. It's not even what you want for MTB, as it's hard work to pedal uphill, and is best on fast, steep descents. On the upside, it will look sick (except for the rigid fork), and will cost money, which seems to be your goal. Realistically, almost any other, older steel frame MTB will be better for your actual needs. Except for looking "sick".

“But why”
I dunno, I’m not an expert eh.
When i fitted the shorter (rigid) fork on my p7 it felt heavy to steer and the bb was too low, i grounded the pedals a couple of times. It made a decent frame feel really ordinary.
Ymmv, of course, but my experience is that the frame manufacturer generally knows best, and if they recommend a range of lengths then it’s probably best to be within their recommendations.

As an urban speedy-pedalling but fun bike, at your height I’d get a rigid 29er with a dropper post. Smaller wheels are slower and if you’re tall you don’t need the clearance around the rear tyre, nor will the handling feel slow (because you have greater leverage to destabilise it).

But that’s pretty expensive compared to keeping your current bike as it is.

Martymac I asked stanton what they thought of the idea and why it might suck.

twrch: my wheels will fit (hope evo 2 pro), It won't be slacker as I've mentioned. Cotic Soul might be a better fit all-round, but not sure how I would mount fixed fenders to it with no chain or seatstay bridges, plus it would cost me to get it repainted.. Rigid forks look sick what u on about 😉

chief: thx for the tip!

Hey single piston world, I need a new car. I drive around town a lot, and sometimes go to the track. I also want to waste a lot of money, and of course, look pimpin'. So, I'm gonna buy a Ferrari, take out the engine, and fit a 1 litre turbodiesel. By my calculations, it will still look like a Ferrari, go 134mph, and get 72mpg. No-one can tell me I'm wrong

OMG why has no-one thought of this??

Mudguards

They're called mudguards

They guard you from mud.

Mudguards.

Usually called fenders in the US.

Here's what I'm gonna do, keep a lookout for a Stanton Switchback 631 18" long, save up for a BTR and see If I can find an Aventon Cordoba singlespeed that could take over its flatland duties.

“Usually called fenders in the US.”

Yes but this is the forum of a British magazine, populated predominantly by British people (some of whom live overseas). Not many Americans here at all!

So nobody calls fe..mudguards "fenders" in the UK?

Do you typically reserve fender for "a low metal frame around an open fireplace that stops the coal or wood from falling out"?

“Do you typically reserve fender for “a low metal frame around an open fireplace that stops the coal or wood from falling out”?”

We mostly use it for guitars.

get two bikes. A commuter and a decent hardtail.

Potential new commuter (value fun over ultimate utility obviously) - would need some shoe covers..