Stans no tubes or N...
 

[Closed] Stans no tubes or No Flats Joe's?

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 hora
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Which one is 'best' or is there really nothing between them?


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 2:33 pm
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Are you still doing that 'buying stuff will make me better' thing Hora?


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 2:41 pm
 hora
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[i]'buying stuff will make me better'[/i]

If that was the case I'd own a 2009 Intense Spyder and drive a Audi RS4.

Instead of riding on 5yr old Chris Kings and driving an older Subaru 😉


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 2:43 pm
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So not considering the pikey option of ghetto tubeless then?


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 2:44 pm
 hora
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I'm listening. I asked the question as Stans is now £71 and Joes is £40 on CRC. Hence I am open to saving money.......


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 2:47 pm
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Go Ghetto!

Just did a Maxxis Minion 2.35 on a DT E540 rim with no trouble whatsoever. One local test ride, a loop of Brechfa and 4 hours this afternoon and no problems yet.

2 tubes and wheel milk from Just Riding Along for £12. Didn't need a compressor to seat the beads, track pump was fine.

Why bother with any "normal" tubeless kit?


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 5:31 pm
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no experience of stans but joes seemed pants. but i'm notoriously rubbish with tubeless.


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 5:43 pm
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AS nickegg go ghetto:
[url= http://rwhitemedia.co.uk/2009/03/06/ ]Sad man's blog on ghetto tubeless[/url]
Remarkably easy to do, and works very well....so far.


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 6:55 pm
 hora
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Looking through the blog, one thing strikes me. The innertube sits outside of the tyre wall bead? (trimming the innertube excess down after the tyre is seated)... So the tyre bead sits onto the remnants of the inner tube first BEFORE the rim nurl itself? That says to me the tyre beeding isnt going to be stable at low pressures and you'll end up 'burping'air out of the sidewalls?

Does that make sense? How does it work/stop that? 😐


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 7:41 pm
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Fill the hollow in the rim with draft excluder- 39p per m from local glazier. Buy 4m for 2 rims.
Seal rim bed with overlapping insulation tape- £1
Push the valves from two old tubes through the tape and tighten the little knurled wheel.
60cc Stans milk per tyre- £10 per 500mil bottle LBS
Hey Presto.
Been running panaracer fire xc pro on mavic crossride for 18 months with no issues other than a topup of juice after a particularly big puncture.


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 7:44 pm
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I have no intention of running pressure that low. I did it to stop thorn punctures and to stop using so many tubes and patches.

Currently running mine at 30psi. Seems perfect for me. Depends on where you ride i suppose.


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 7:47 pm
 hora
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30psi is what I'd aim for (hardtail tho if ok still?). That was my only concern. The blog looks very clear and straight forward. One thing, is it advisable to use new tyres or are c30% usage/wear ones ok?


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 7:52 pm
 gamo
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joe's and stans rimstrips are almost identical(have both), through use
i would say i prefer stans sealant as the joes stuff seems to dry quicker
and makes more of a mess of the inside of the tyres.


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 7:54 pm
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would add that the ghetto method is less likely to burp as the tube overlap seals against the tyre. This means if the tyre comes away from the rim the overlapping tube goes with it. no burps for me in a year.


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 7:56 pm
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I was running Kenda Nevegals but due to the amount of punctures they had recieved i went with Maxxis. Used tyres may require longer to get that initial seal thats all.

Just Riding Along highly recommend Maxxis for tubeless conversions. In my experience, so far, they seem great. They took seconds to seal.

Ghetto conversion could not have been simpler to do.


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 7:58 pm
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This on your chameleon? I run same tyres as you on the same bike with inner tubes, at 30 psi. They're fine.


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 8:10 pm
 hora
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Nickc, its pinching at 40psi. How much do you weigh?!!!


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 8:22 pm
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Less than you, clearly


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 8:39 pm
 hora
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95kg of pure lard 8)


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 8:41 pm
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95kg of pure lard

And then some!


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 9:23 pm
 hora
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fatblokeattheback, you run about 0.5psi in your tyres and your forks.....surely you must run tubeless in both your tyres [b]and[/b] your forks? 😆 🙄


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 9:30 pm
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Put it down to the skill of the rider then as to why I don't get punctures! :mrgreen:


 
Posted : 16/03/2009 9:43 pm
 hora
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Quick question- just rang LBs to check stock of items and he mentioned 'this for a own tubeless'? Yep- he reckoned a thinner bmx tube would be 'better'. Still better to go with the Schwalbe one and have the overhang to trim when tyre is seated??


 
Posted : 17/03/2009 4:11 pm
 P20
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I've got the Stans system on 2 bikes, great bit of kit, it just works. The Joes system was a pain to set up and wouldn't keep its pressure. Haven't tried the ghetto system though.


 
Posted : 17/03/2009 4:42 pm
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"as Stans is now £71"

Not sure where you're looking but Stans is £51 at JustRidingAlong and Biketreks has a kit reduced to about £40.


 
Posted : 17/03/2009 4:48 pm
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I've tried Joe's and got fed up with it so sent it back to CRC for credit, no problems with Stans or Split 20" innnertubes method either.

Stans sits under the lip of the rim and is a tight fit, whereas the Joes strip sat above the lip and was very slack on the rim.

As in burping i've had no problems with Stans/20" split tubes, but did have problems with DT Swiss kits when using lower pressure


 
Posted : 17/03/2009 5:18 pm
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No burping here yet, but only ran them for a couple of weeks, don't run particularly low pressure tho'.


 
Posted : 17/03/2009 6:10 pm
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Do you have to have UST rims for 'Ghetto' tubeless?
Also , sorry for the remspac question , Do you also have to use UST tyres?
Thinking that UST tyres must carry extra protection , as they weigh 100gms + more. Don't think that my NNics would last , very light sidewalls. So does it pay to buy better heavier built non UST tyres like Maxxis or Hutchinson , then Ghetto these. I have a set of UST Crosslands and love the acceleration with a std tube'd Speedking , compared to a Slimed Conti Gravity


 
Posted : 17/03/2009 6:23 pm
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Stans every time, it just works properly.


 
Posted : 17/03/2009 7:40 pm
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Art latex has worked for me but does dry out.


 
Posted : 17/03/2009 8:49 pm
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Do you have to have UST rims for 'Ghetto' tubeless?
Also , sorry for the remspac question , Do you also have to use UST tyres?

No - standard rims and standard tyres (but not all) I use Racing Ralphs on DT swiss 4.2 rims. 20 inch Schwalbe innner tube (presta with removable core) and 60 ml of latex does the rest.

I've run them for over 3 months and finally came to grief when I hit glass and sliced through the tyre - too big a hole for the latex to fix. I was doing an event and in haste whipped out the schwalbe tube and inserted a normal tube. BUT...

the replacement tube went flat withing a mile - I had assumed that it had prolapsed through the tyre and finally worn through. It was only when I got home to fix the tyre and re ghetto it that I discovered 6 thorns poking through!! These had been in the tyre for some time and I just didn't think of checking when I had the flat - after all I'd hit glass...

Ghetto is about £12 for 2 tyres - so a lot cheaper as well


 
Posted : 17/03/2009 9:12 pm
 gamo
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As i said above the joes and stans rimstrips i have are almost identical,
both fit tightly up under the bead on my dt 5.1 's, stans sealant does
seem better(less messy).Going to try the ghetto way on my brothers bike
at weekend.


 
Posted : 17/03/2009 10:38 pm