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As the title says what gearing are people running ? essentially for the quantocks so not too hilly.
Ta
Dc
32-17/18 depending on how fit I feel. All riding in Chilterns plenty of hills with the odd push up something ridiculously steep if running a 17.
Not massive hills on 'tocks but still challenging on a ss! 32:18 here, with 32:20 reserved for big days out.
32-19 means I can run the cs at they're shortest.
Thanks Chaps
33-18 on 435mm stays for same reason as Rorschach.
32:17 for me, prefer to jump off and do the odd short run/push than spin out on the flat and watch people pass me!
I found 2 teeth more on the rear compared to my previous 26" bike.
33 : 18 for me . I ride it everywhere and it seems good to me. Great around the new forest and can be ridden up any trailcentre climb.
34/20
I've just done my first single speed and it's a 29er!! Research says somewhere around 51 (ish) inches*. I had a 30t front going spare so paired it with a 17t rear, which seems to work quite well except on the road, where it's too low.
* gear inches are teeth on the front - divided by teeth on the back - times the wheel size
So for me, 30/17*29=51.17
Do a Google for gearcalc.xls, ratios at a glance.
I ran 32x16 on my 26" singlespeed, which is 52". When I built my 29er, I went for 32x18 which is 51.6" ish.
When they need replacing I'll change them for 31x17, which is 52.9", but more importantly uses prime numbers...
but more importantly uses prime numbers...
I like that! 🙂
The prime numbers thing is something we used to like for our fixed bikes. It evened out the wear on the rear tyre.
Simple maths and only really of value on a fixed wheel if the majority of your braking is done through the cranks.
It's probably better to use an even numbered front ring and rear, and ensure the chain always goes on in the same way - that gets you a longer life out of a chain and rings. Similar to how the old block track chains and skip tooth rings seemed to last forever.
32 18 here. With my limited SS experience I have found it to be perfect.
I can get up nigh on every hill that I can on my geared bike with a bit of grunt but you have to get used to spinning out on some flats.
I like that!
There is a logic to it if you ride a fixed gear bike, it means the bit of tyre that gets used for accelerating/braking is always different. Whereas for example a normal 2:1 ratio would mean that only 1 patch of tyre was ever being used as with the cranks level either way round the wheel was always the same. As soon as you add a freewheel it's not important, although there's still an argument that odd numbered gears give better chain wear, but it's probably immeasurably small a difference.
Gears, depending on fitness and time of year anything from 47" to 54" or even lower for commuting.
(and on a related note if anyone quotes gears in metric they're either wrong, or talking gear development which is gear ratio x pi x diameter)
I started with the "standard" 32:18 but moved to 34:20 which gives me slightly better acceleration for climbs but more spinning on the flat which is just manageable.
That's in the current dry conditons. I will probably go to 32:20 in the Winter if traction is not so good.