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Anyone else struggle like hell to get these to clamp into place? is there some sort of magical way im missing in order to get the bolt through and line up with the other end to tighten? can never get it flush to start with, much cursing later and it eventually manages to land in place to tighten, but end up scratching carbon bars in the process. just seem so awkward to get them into place or is it just me?! is there knack, or easy way to fit them that im missing!?
I squeeze the clamp to line them up but agree its a faff and a pain to do
easiest is to do it off the bars and slide it on, but again that risks marking the bars. They're a bit fiddly.
I just slide the bolt in and jiggle it about while backthreading anti-clockwise with the torx key until I feel the thread engage properly, then I start to tighten clockwise. Just remember that there should be zero gap on the top (see page 11 of this document - https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-mtb/brakes-and-shifters/mtb-disc-brakes-and-shifters-user-manual-eeu.pdf).
I just slide the bolt in and jiggle it about while backthreading anti-clockwise with the torx key until I feel the thread engage properly, then I start to tighten clockwise. Just remember that there should be zero gap on the top (see page 11 of this document - https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/user-manuals/sram-mtb/brakes-and-shifters/mtb-disc-brakes-and-shifters-user-manual-eeu.pdf).
I squeeze the clamp to line them up but agree its a faff and a pain to do
ok thanks folks - was starting to think im being an absolute numpty for something so simple! clearly is a stupid design if all the above struggle to do it without moving stuff around.....yeah ive noticed before theres a gap at the bottom on one and top on another, then saw that pdf stating there should be no gap at the top - i guess easiest way would be fit them off the bars removing grips and sliding on loosened, if theres enough brake/dropper length of course to get past the end of the bars....what a faff, it winds me up every time i have to take them off
ok thanks folks - was starting to think im being an absolute numpty for something so simple! clearly is a stupid design if all the above struggle to do it without moving stuff around.....yeah ive noticed before theres a gap at the bottom on one and top on another, then saw that pdf stating there should be no gap at the top - i guess easiest way would be fit them off the bars removing grips and sliding on loosened, if theres enough brake/dropper length of course to get past the end of the bars....what a faff, it winds me up every time i have to take them off
ok thanks folks - was starting to think im being an absolute numpty for something so simple! clearly is a stupid design if all the above struggle to do it without moving stuff around.....yeah ive noticed before theres a gap at the bottom on one and top on another, then saw that pdf stating there should be no gap at the top - i guess easiest way would be fit them off the bars removing grips and sliding on loosened, if theres enough brake/dropper length of course to get past the end of the bars....what a faff, it winds me up every time i have to take them off
The no-gap at the top is a PITA because if you loosen then to adjust the angle, you can cause a gap without realising. Then you have to un-gap the gap and this can change the angle that you just spent ages getting right.
And if you tighten to the correct clamp torque spec (which IMHO is too high - 3nm is more than enough) and there is a gap at the top, it can damage carbon bars.
At least the brakes actually work half-decent which offsets the faffometer.
Yeah it’s a real shit design - great for integration but it needs rethinking as it’s a absolute PITA to get them lined up without damaging your nice new carbon bars
it’s just a real crap design as you say they don’t even seem to sit flush at the top when you do it properly especially if your fine tuning angles etc