You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Shifting seems fairly dreadful across the block, but specifically on the biggest sprockets.
It might just be dreadful because I've adjusted it to some sort of compromise adjustment that *sort of* works on all cogs, but the root symptom was that it just wouldn't drop off the big cog, was the same on the original GX cassette.
Have wound the B-tension in to get a ~15mm gap at the biggest sprocket, any other quirks of GX mechs that I need to know? Will get mech hanger checked but it looks pretty straight.
Ta
I have no problem with GX and XT, and also run it with XTR on second bike (plus an XO1 with XTR on another bike). In fact with the XT (42t) I'm surprised how easily it goes into the big cog.
Typically the B tension is the tweak to get smooth shifting on the big ring, and sometimes needs wider gap than you'd think. Check the stops are okay though.
Also could be too much tension in the cable from start. Maybe redo it, drop it into smallest cog and release cable, then just enough tension with pliers to just keep the cable straight on clamping in the mech. Run through the indexing again.
p.s. I'm running 11sp. Also KMC chain. Plus I use X1 shifters (XO1 on the bike that has the XO1 mech), as I'd read they're smoother than a GX shifter and not much more in price, though maybe doesn't make much difference.
Thanks, have read elsewhere how sensitive it is to hanger alignment, so me just eyeballing it probably isn't sufficient!
Will check cable tensions again, had heard you can clamp cable wrong in mech but it seemed fairly obvious where to clamp it!
Good to know it isn't cassette at least...
Well, here's the full SRAM RD user manual.
On the whole I think it's probably right the with the current mechs there's one obvious way to route the cable, but you never know.
With the previous series, it mattered whether it was X9 or above for which side of the screw you clamped the cable...
Have wound the B-tension in to get a ~15mm gap at the biggest sprocket
to check, you're doing this with the shock sagged to 30%? I let the air out of my shock to do this.
Wont work well at both extremes of the cassette is classic bent mech hanger. You wont be able to see it in most cases, you need a straight edge to gauge it.