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Hi all, looking for some advice. I’ve bled my guide rsc multiple times following the SRAM bleed procedure precisely. Following the bleed, I remove the bleed block and install the pads and they don’t come anywhere near touching the rotor. It’s as if there isn’t enough fluid in the system.
This is the case even with brand new pads installed after the bleed. Are you supposed to remove the bleed block and then put more fluid into the system to move the pistons closer?
In the end I bled using my pads installed and not the bleed block but this doesn’t seem right to me!
Sounds odd. Is it a bleeding edge caliper? I did mine for the first time the other day and so far so good. I had a mushy lever and now I don’t (it’s a guide r so no bite point adjust).
Did you definitely use the right bleed block and did you set the adjustments to where they’re meant to be when you do the bleed? You’re meant to wind on the reach adjuster so the lever is 75-80mm from the centre point of the handlebar. I imagine is you’ve got bite point adjust that you’re meant to aetbthat a certain way.
You aren’t meant to add extra fluid after removing the bleed block!
I'm assuming you are priming the pads by pumping the lever a few times after refitting the wheel, as this will move the pads in to the optimum distance from the disc. If so and still too much lever pull, you can prime the pads by gently pulling the lever in once or twice with the wheel out, bit not so much the pistons fall out!! This will make the bite point much more immediate, but less pad/disc clearance. Worth a fettle...
As above, assuming the right bleed block, the pads should be miles clear on first fitting but after a few lever strokes all should be well.
There’s no particular problem with bleeding with pads and disc in situ so long as you’re clean and tidy and don’t get fluid on them. If you do then it’s time to put the discs through the dishwasher and buy new pads or take a chance on one of the many pad cleaning theories...