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Has anyone else experienced the apparently common issue with sticky levers on new Sram brakes? Mine are Level TLMs, but it also affects Guides. The lever doesn't return or returns very slowly leaving the brake stuck on. Sram have replaced some under warranty in the US, but my bike manufacturer (Intense) don't seem to have heard of it.
It happened on my Giant and the shop I bought it from sorted it.
Common problem, the nylon part of the piston swells and binds on the cylinder it is in.
I believe that is correct anyway.
Some people file the part down as a cure. I think the replacement part solves this issue but no idea how easy it is to get it, or it's cost.
I would just send them to Sram Tech for warranty, wherever you bought them is normally easiest, any shop with a ZyroFisher account can do it if you have proof of purchase, you will just need to pay for their time etc.
My Guide RSC died on me the other week in Finale.
The rear brake lever just wouldn’t compress leaving the caliper at the rear completely open.
Fitted new lever internals. Bled the brake. Rode to a bar and had an Aperol Spritz and a little aperitivo. Got back on the bike and had then exactly the same problem.
Supposedly, according to my bike shop owning friend, its a fairly common problem and that is why he had ten or more sets of Guide internal kits in the shelf.
I got the kit to fix it from my lbs, it was only £16.
I had this on a bike I had left hanging for a while. Lever wouldn't return properly on compression, but otherwise felt fine.
I've got them in a box, didn't realise it was an easy fix - might give it a go 🙂
Mine has done it in the last few days. We're away and the bike has sat under a tarpaulin outside, and the rear Guide RS has become slow to return. Seems OK this morning and I'm just about to go for a ride - much cooler though.
I'll try the sanding down method soon.
There are quite a few you-tube guides.
Just back from a flat 24 miler - brake isn't binding, but rear lever is noticeably slower than the front to return. Still shorts and t-shirt weather but not 25c like last few days.
Will order a bleed kit (they need doing ideally) and clean out/sand the internals/piston.
The ghost of Av(o)id returns?
When you fix it, don't use the same replacement part as it will just happen again. Use the Gen 2 piston/plunger - the design is different - so one can assume that the issue has been addressed by Sram. I did my guides a few weeks back and went riding in 27 degrees on Sunday and no issues at all. Previously they would have been stuck or very slow to return. You can buy just the plunger from Taiwan rather than the whole kit. Mine only took a week to arrive.
Sram suggested I returned to them for warranty even though the 2 years is up, but I couldn't be bother with the hassle, so just did it myself. God knows how long they would have taken to do it.
Needs sorting. Binding again. Bleed kit being delivered tomorrow and I will try the wet and dry sanding on the piston. If it doesnt work I'll get the kit. Chance to bleed the brakes as they haven't been done since new (2 years) as they have been perfect until now.
The front is fine.
Bikeinn - part number 5878574.
A lot cheaper than anyone in the UK.
Worked out cheaper than doing it under warranty too by the time the LBS charge would’ve been added.
Fixed, for now. Still a little slow compared to the front but i have just ordered a piston version 2 if this doesn't help.
The circlip is a bugger to remove and even my circlip pliers couldn't reach. Used a very fine point bit on my small screwdriver set to prise it out.
The piston is in tight so will need a good shove. You dont need to sand off much for it to run free.
Do watch out removing the seals. They are on tight and i ripped one (temporary superglue repair awaiting new piston)
It was also my first brake bleed which was straight forward with the Epic kit.
New piston is still 1-2 weeks away from Taiwan, so ordered silicone seal grease (not bike specific £££) in an 80ml tube for £6.
Stripped again, cleaned lever internals thoroughly and took a little more off the piston. Applied the seal grease and refitted. The mechanism moved nicely as I re-assembled lever - It makes installing the washer and circlip harder as the piston wants to pop out. I found the best way was to push the washer on, but have it slightly offset and push it into the circlip's 'slot' on the lever internals. This gives you chance with a fine screwdriver to push the circlip in.
Bled brakes and just been out for 16 miles and no binding and lever returning as normal. Getting the knack of stripping these down now !
New piston actually arrived today. There are quite a few changes to it, considerably less material to 'drag' on the lever internals. Replaced and re-bled and the brakes are perfect
I knackered the circlip removing it, so decided to risk re-assembling without it (I've since found loads of 1/2" internal circlips at work!). Guess what? Brake works fine. I guess that all it does is give the bite point adjuster something to push against, if that makes sense. Will I die?
Do watch out removing the seals. They are on tight and i ripped one (temporary superglue repair awaiting new piston)
Been there, done that! Many swear words came out!!
The circlip is a pain to remove. I could only get my pliers to fit in the openings if the clip was in one specific position. My patience was tested to the max however!