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// title chosen for effect 😛
I'm shortly going to be building my first set of wheels using squorx nipples. Looking around there are two tools, a long handle wrench and a bit that has an adjustable depth stop. I like the sound of the second as a similar tool I have for normal nipples makes lacing and building quicker. What I'd like to know is can that same tool be used for the whole build by fitting it to a bit handle? I.e. initial lace with the depth stop set (at around 3.5-4mm based on https://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/dt-swiss-squorx-nipple-spoke-length/) then retract it for the dish and final true.
Yeah I don't see why not, I put mine in my drill which really sped up the process, so don't see why you can't put it in a hex bit of some kind.
However the proper T-Handle one makes it easier to keep track of how much you've turned the wrench though, if it's the first set of wheels you're building then to bring the spokes up to tension evenly and keep the rim true it's important to know 1) how much you're turning the wrench (1/4 of a turn, 1/2 a turn etc) and 2) you repeat the process on every spoke.
Cool. Not my 'first' ever set of wheels (have built quite a few now) just first with those nipples (silly not too since they come with the rims) as in the past I've mainly used sapim polyax nipples and spokes. I'd probably use a t bar or mark the tool to help with knowing how much I'd added. What I want to avoid is a normal spoke key as going to use black nipples.
Please can you link to the adjustable depth tool... Sounds interesting and potentially useful for my next wheel build.
https://www.spokesfromryan.com/product/dt-swiss-torx-driver-bit-for-squorx-nipples/
Price is rather steep these days, maybe cheaper elsewhere?
There is a longer version if you need it for deep rims.
Should work ok to build a wheel but I think it will feel a little cumbersome so I splashed the cash on the dedicated tool
The above is a cheap as I've found it. Don't seem to be any alternatives with the depth feature. I'm planning several sets using these nipple's so the cost seems worth it.
I use a cheap E5 ( iirc) socket on a 1/4 extension in my low speed drill. Spin the nipples to the last thread then go round with the squorx t handle adding equal turns.
There aren't many turns past the last thread anyway that I'd particularly need a depth stop beyond using the thread as a visual reference.
What I'm saying is, given the choice, I'd take the t-handle tool over the depth tool.
I have a Unior depth setting tool for regular nipples though rarely use this feature anymore. I find the pin does serve a purpose though as it makes for a more positve action when poking the nipples through the rim.
For Squorx I use the DT Swiss T-handle tool it seems to keep a good hold on the nip too so I don't get too many dropped into the rim.
These days I just wind up by eye to the end of the threads and take it from there.
The proper tools are always very nice to own and make the job somewhat easier but if you aren't doing many and want to save a couple of quid I used an old spoke and a standard spoke key.
I took an old spoke and threaded a nipple on to the end. I applied loctite and forced the thread through so the spoke end was sticking out a few mm past the slotted head of the nipple, then bent the remaining spoke into a loop shape to make a comfortable handle.
Take each squorx nipple and thread the back (squorx) end onto the above tool and screw it down until it bottoms out on the nipple. This allows you to drive it without the thread rotating.
Poke the squorx on the tool through the rim hole, engage it with a spoke and tighten it with the tool then a normal spoke key. While gripping the spoke key, back out the tool.
Sounds a bit of a faff but in practice it's easy, I have built at least 3 pairs of DT rims like this and it works well for me!
Squorx driver for running the nipples onto the spokes at the same height, then the T handle driver for truining and dishing.
Find that a wheel takes around 45mins to lace and true to a good standard.
Adjustable depth tools are a gamechanger imo, you can pretty much build a wheel just using one of those, if you get the depth just right. My last wheel took me about 5 minutes of finetuning after just spinning the nipples on with a drill.
Not sure this is good advice, but, I don't use the squorx nipples, I use sapim standard nipples which are pretty much the same shape and ime work fine with the DT rims and washers. Mostly just because I'm a curmudgeon and it annoys me that squorx is so obviously designed for the machines not for the owners.
I use the driver pictured and have stuck it into my drill to get the wheel up to a set torque before going round with the tool in a t wrench works a treat, you also learn the best start for the depth.
@diggery that's an impressive technique but I don't want the spoke key on the nipple's to avoid marks 😜.
I've always built with with a modified screw driver for the initial nipple's insertion so am sold in the idea of having a known tension after the initial build. As above want to use the nipple's as they come with the rim and should mean black without scratches but yes agree they are probably more for the benefit of the bulk/machine builder.