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For those interested, and unlikely to go back through history of the STW forum. I thought I'd update that my Spyres are finally working acceptably.
this is my setup:
[list][*]Sram Force 10spd Shifters[/*]
[*]Spyre calipers[/*]
[*]Front outer is Jagwire compressionless[/*]
[*]Rear outer is Shimano SLR from a reel[/*]
[*]rear inner is the fancy coated Jagwire, Front is random stainless one[/*]
[*]Rear pads original[/*]
[*]Front pads superstar kevlar[/*]
[*]Both rotors are 160mm Avid G2[/*][/list]
I didn't have a very scientific approach to this, so I can't be sure which thing made the difference, but I basically set them up very carefully:
[list][*]alignment[/*]
[*]dialling the pads in as close as they'll go[/*]
[*]adjusting the cable slack last[/*][/list]
I cleaned both rotors, first with isopropynol, then a sanded them down with p60 sandpaper
i cleaned the rear pads with isopropynol, and then sanded it down with p60. Front ones were replaces with superstar kevlars as the old ones were buggered.
After a good bedding in, they seem to work well now. I can even endo (couldn't before).
my conclusion is that they are quite fussy brakes. It doesn't take much to stop them working nicely (at least with sram brake levers), so I'm still a bit worried about the long term effort of keeping them running, but for now I'm happy with the power, and I'm ok with the feel (back isn't great, but I get too much friction with compressionless, due to the cable routing)
Not fussy at all for me when I swapped my BB7s out for them and used the same cables - but I already has gore rideon cables and G2 rotors.
Immediately seemed better than the BB7s, and I even thought that the original pads were OK until the heavy mud came along.
Now trying some RWD sintered pads and they are maybe better.
original thread [url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/trp-spyre-setup/ ]here[/url].
I seem to have mine dialled in finally too.
No compression less housing on either end. 105 brifters. Shimano ice tech nukeproof pads.
I will be testing them on Sunday at Hillingdon. If I don't win it will be because the brakes are not working, not anything else, like skill or fitness. Obviously.
jobless - how were the brakes?
Mine lasted about one ride before back to being rubbish. I think it's down to the cable pull - It really is similar to when cantilevers are set up badly with the straddle wire too high.
I just think they are optimised for more cable pull than I can get out of the SRAM shifter, which means that when everything is 100% perfect, I can get them working, but they are very intolerant to any changes in setup.
I've just bought another BB7, as it worked fine and was only the heel rub causing me issues, so I'm going to BB7 on the front, and keep the spyre on the back, at least until I've got some cash for hydros
I've got a pair on a Cannondale CAADX cyclocross type bike that I commute on . Didn't think much to the Promax Render brakes that it came with but to be honest I'm struggling to find much improvement with the Spyres .
I've just fitted a pair to a CAADX that had Promax's on it. The Promax's were a doddle to set up but braking was a bit off. I couldn't lock the back wheel.
The Spyres are at least as good as the BB7's I have on another bike and they have a better feel at the lever. They are a little easier to dial in than BB7's. The only issue I had was the front was deflecting the wheel slightly under heavy braking which I sorted by going back to square one and starting again. BB7's on Versa levers, Spyres on 105, both on Jagwire Road inners/outers.
Nice and light too.
boblo - Member
The only issue I had was the front was deflecting the wheel slightly under heavy braking which I sorted by going back to square one and starting again.
Can you elaborate at all?
I have found that I got a lot of wheel deflection recently with my Spyres. I tightened everything at the hub assembly up and have the skewer done up very well. Didn't expect it to be the setup of the brake causing the problem.
How might brake setup cause that deflection ?
(not having a go, genuinely no idea how)
^+1 curiosity about going back to square one.
although with me its upgrade from promax renders to bb7s that makes for front wheel/hub delfection. I've fitted 2 other sets of moutain bb7s to qr forks with no surprises or problems, but i was suprised to have to put a bolt up halo skewer in to keep it still on my cyclocross bike, given that i have never needed to ditch even crap qr skewers with hydraulic brakes and same size 160mm) rotors. Wondered if it is to do with wheel size/leverage as well as that of the outside of the rotor, but iirc there's not much in it between outside diameter of a 25c road tyre and a 2.3" 26" tyre. Not a problem really, it's lighter than a qr after all, just suprised and wondering if i missed something daft setting them up.
I set the Spyres up with a business card between each pad and the disk. I then tightened the pads equally each side with the 3mm adjusters then tightened the main caliper mounts. I noted the caliper 'migrated' towards the wheel as I torqued the main mounts up. This despite the pads being tight against the card spacers and the brake lever being pulled back hard and secured with a toe strap.
I think the caliper was being offset during the tightening process which meant the inside pad was then deflecting the wheel under heavy braking. I splodged a bit of copper ease between the caliper and its mounting washers and retightened. The caliper didn't migrate and the wheel now doesn't deflect.
This all might be total bolleaux and completely coincidental but if the caliper is offset it surely will push the disc over even if the pads are centralised?
Does that make sense (and apologies for the essay)?
Interesting. I run my SLCs with 105 10 speed levers with no problems whatsoever. To set them up, I just manually pulled the calliper, tightened the mounting bolts then cinched up the brake cable. After that, it's just been a case of turning the barrel adjuster as the pads wear. Standard cables too. Strong, well modulated braking in both wet and dry conditions. Sorry as this will be of no help if you are having problems but I've been delighted with mine. 🙄
Interestingly (?) the Promax's did this a little bit as well but there was less friction (wind up?) between the mounting cap screws/washers and the caliper mount face. I was able to manually align and adjust out any offset introduced during installation. When I didn't do this, I had wheel deflection.
Eureka? Mebbies.
<edit> in my post above 'towards' should read 'away' or it doesn't make sense. Note to self; must proof read my posts...
i have spyres on commuter and just put the hy-rd on front, its a world apart lever much more solid. had superstar kevlars on front but changed to goodridge ceramics much much quieter in wet
ps original trp pads squeal like a banshee when wet they never shut up IMO
oh and i faced my disc mounts also made a difference with original spyres