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Hi
Looking for advice on what spray paint to use for renovating my old Trek Slash. Ive stripped it down and I am having it dipped professionally to remove the old paint.
At this stage I'm unsure what direction to take - I've read lots of different advice online. I want to try and get it as perfect as I can, I'm very patient, and artistic so no worries there. I'd like to avoid a rattle can if possible, and I have a spray gun (Lidls special) but don't have a compressor yet - I'm looking to buy a compressor but I read that most of them mix oil in the line which is a nono when painting?
So If necessary I would look at purchasing a graffiti airbrush kit?? But again, know little about these things.
And if I do use a spray gun, what paint would I need to buy? And does it need to be mixed with anything to thin it etc? What about primer? Any particular primer recommended?
Ive also seen this 'new' paint called spray.bike which is esssentially a powder coat type paint in a rattle can. Only problem is, it only seems to come in matt and I want a gloss finish. Anyone used this with good or bad results?
One more thing - masking. If I want to mask off parts of the frame is there a recommended tape/film to use to give the crispest edge? Would standard masking tape be suitable?
Sorry for so many questions, hoping someone who has good experience can point me in the right direction. Thanks
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Have you considered getting it powder coated?
I used to use a local company that powder coated my frames for £10. I couldn't buy the paint for that let alone the hassle of painting it. Powdercoat is generally a lot more suitable for bikes as its more durable. The downside was the limited colour choice. I had to pick from the stock they held which were more industrial.
The trouble with home painting is getting a dust free environment where you dont mind everything in the room getting a dusting of overspray. I usually do mine outside but inevitably a fly will land on it. Its perfectly possible to get a good result though with enough time and skill.
I painted a frame in my teens with rattle cans, with no ill effects. The paint job was only 2 colours so not difficult. If you wanted to go for a fancy paint job then you’ll be on a mix of rattle can/ spray gun and an air brush.
my airbrush cost 30 from amazon and looks like a mini spray gun, and does what I want of it, and would happily handle the finer bits of a frame job.
like all things though, good prep and not rushing it is they key.
It won't mix oil in the line, that's a separate bit of kit you'd use with things like impact wrenches to lubricate their intenals, they do however use an oil filled sump in the compressor so some does make it past the piston rings just like in a car, The alternative type isn't quite as long lasting and much noisier as it runs dry. You can paint with a oil cooled compressor but you're right some may get through and give an imperfect finish. BUT, that assumes that your first attempt will be flawless in every other way, it won't, if you can see the oil drops through all the orange peel, thin edges, dust, runs, surface imperfections, and other flaws then think about upgrading the compressor!
And water based paints aren't particularly tough compared to enamel, and enamel paints aren't particularly tough compared to powder coat.
If you find a good powder coating company recommended locally I'd just go there, the finish can be very good, at least as good as you could manage with wet paint at home.
If its a one off I would say its more hassle and expense than its worth.
You fit a filter and moisture trap to the air line, you can also fit a small trap at the gun to catch anything that condenses in the line.
2k paint is good for durability, but it has <span class="Y0NH2b CLPzrc">Isocyanates so you want and air fed mask etc.</span>
Yes you mix paint with thinners to get the required viscosity. Normal masking tape "bleeds" at the edges. Decent primer suitable for the substrate, etch or epoxy, high build over that if needed.
Practice with the gun on something else first, some cheap guns "spit" some are ok. Check what tip sizes you have if you are going to be doing primer, paint and clear. Check what CFM your gun needs before you buy a cheap compressor and it cant keep up.
Whatever you do make sure bearing bores etc are masked somehow!
Thanks for all info so far. The place I'm getting the frame dipped also does powder coating, but the only issue with that is that it will be a single colour. I'm toying with the idea of two tone.
You can pretty much have any colour you like at a powder coaters (Ral reference etc) but if its non standard you will have to pay for the powder batch and set up charge (I work in construction and regularly schedule PPC items non standard)
Celtic Dragon - got a link on amazon for the airbrush kit?? And what paints you use with it??
Sure can 🙂
The airbrush, I had a mini compressor already, so I didn't need one of them. As for paint, I just use Tamiya model paint for RC stuff. Bonus is its water based acrylic so plastic safe.
If you do go down the Tamyia paint route, I would recommend doing a test paint on something using all the paints you will use on the bike, to see if you get a reaction. If you don't, find your local friendly car bodyshop place and get them to clear coat it to see if it reacts again. If it doesn't, you're all good to go. When you have finished painting, it will need a clear coat.
I'll post a pic of the lid I did in this manner (except I used Tamyia clear coat for this as it didn't need to be a hard coat).
I know you said you wanted to avoid rattle cans, however i can honestly recommend these guys spray.bike I have personally used then on a couple of bikes that i have renovated, and about to clear coat an aluminium frame, I'm currently taking back to raw.
Just a thought.
ron jeremy - those paints look good - I want to spray my carbon road bike matt black and think that paint may be the answer. How many coats did you apply? And how many cans did that take (I'm thinking 2 400ml cans for a frame and fork). How tough would you say the finish is? Does it chip easily?
Thanks (and sorry for the hijack)!
Powder coating is the way forward if you want to avoid a great deal of hassle and heartache, but it's a non-starter if you're trying to coat carbon or if you still have a warranty on your frame, some manufacturers say that the heating process required with powder coating may weaken aluminium welds.
As for painting a frame, getting a coat of paint on is the easy part. The hard part is getting a smooth, durable finish. I've used a model airbrush to paint a pair of fork lowers, but the paint itself is fragile and comes off easily, even with a laquer coat on top.
If you're masking the frame then masking tape does feather at the edges slightly. Tamiya make an excellent masking tape that's relatively expensive, but will give you a nice clean edge and isn't too sticky. Other brands will either leave gummy reside which will need to be cleaned off, damaging the paint or are so sticky that they will lift the paint.
There is also a thin clear vinyl available which can be cut with a scalpel and shaped, I've never used it myself but if you want a clean edge in the paint then this would be the best way to do it.
Perhaps the best thing that you can do is to practice on something like an old radiator. Learning to airbrush takes a considerable amount of time, thinning paint is only part of it as you have to learn the correct compression pressure (which will vary depending on the type of paint you use) and how to adjust the nozzle to get decent coverage. It will be a frustrating exercise, you will get paint running from the nozzle and a spitty finish when you start out. Once you get the hang of it though you'll be happy with the results.
The only other thing to add is that if you invisiframe or helitape your frame afterward then it's going to be permanent, as lifting the tape will likely pull the paint off your frame.
What I found is different colours/collections require different amounts, as a rule two cans will do frame and forks and I do two coats, obviously what base colour the frame is to start with will also affect the amount required, then factor in a can of acrylic transparent finish as well, (one can does a frame and forks), I have got great results with the Black and if you do one coat of the finish it will give you a matt look, website is really helpful and full of advice.
As above, durability of rattle cans is poor (no point stripping either).
Thanks for further great advice. I'm intrigued now by the spray.bike paints - Ronjeremy - do you have any photos of what you coated??
Using vinyl for masking and cutting with a scalpel sounds an option - I'm pretty good when it comes to precision with stuff like that.
My frame is a 2015 ali Trek Slash thats a bit battered and going to be my back up bike, so I'm not concerned about warranty etc - I already had a rear triangle under warranty.
Thanks to everyone who's taken time to write advice! 🙂
mark, just sent you a pm
This is the result of me having too much time on my hands and an airbrush!!
