Spokes and Nipples
 

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[Closed] Spokes and Nipples

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I got some Hope pro II on crests last year and want to use the same hubs with 29er crests.

I will be dismantling and lacing the rims and then get some to do the final bit to save costs.

Can you recommend a spoke and how do I find the length? Also nipples can I reuse them or buy new?


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:05 pm
 cp
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nipples tend to come with spokes, I can recommend highly the guys at sdeals.com for spokes.

Assuming you want fairly lightweight, the Alpina F1 spoke is great and a good price.

Use a spoke calculator such as https://leonard.io/edd/

this allows you to pre-select from hubs and rims in the database.

You need, assuming 32 hole:-

rear - 294 both sides
front - 292 LH 294 RH


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:12 pm
 cp
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buy the wheelpro book if you've never done it before and follow the great instructions.

www.wheelpro.co.uk


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:13 pm
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Any decent stainless branded spoke - Sapim, DT, ACI, Wheelsmith etc.

Length - plenty of online calculators, or just compare the ERDs of the rims and add the difference.

Brass nipples fine to re use if in good nick. Alu nipples good for bin only.


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:13 pm
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Thanks that's really helpful.

I don't want super light weight, I want durability as well


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:15 pm
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wheelpro book +1


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:17 pm
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I know DT swiss are good spokes but there's a wide range of names


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:18 pm
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Just be careful using the pre-select list of hubs on the site that CP has posted as the info is not always correct.

For instance, there are different options for a Pro II rear and one of them is wrong giving you equal length spokes on each side. This is not right. Pro II rear hubs on a 3 cross build never have equal spokes either side.

Worth checking on the Hope site to get the right dims.

The leonard site almost always under estimates spoke lengths for Stans rims too.


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:19 pm
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Just another note, are your Pro II hubs the newer 40t version? They have a slightly different centre to RH dim from the previous ones.


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:22 pm
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I'd say that you'd be best with:

293/295 on the front (or 294/296 if you can't get odd lengths)
295/293 on the rear (and again 294/296 if you can't get odd lengths)

All based in 12mm nipples by the way

That's based on me building hundreds of wheels on Pro IIs with Stans rims


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:25 pm
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Yeah on the new Evo 2 Hubs


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:29 pm
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Should be good with those lengths then


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:30 pm
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Thanks,

I got the length so what would be the best type?


 
Posted : 16/12/2014 7:40 pm
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Bump for any advice?


 
Posted : 17/12/2014 6:29 pm
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As with most things in life (bar Top Trumps) there is no single "best", there are just products that best match your needs.

DT competition (double butted 1.8/2.0mm IIRC) or similar would be my recommendation for a balance of value, light weight and strength. This is what most handbuilt wheels will come with (bar ultralight or touring, DH wheels).


 
Posted : 17/12/2014 8:35 pm
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Why not just find out the length Hope use/used when they built their hoops on the crest rim?

A good number of the builds using 40t evo hubs have equal spoke length.


 
Posted : 17/12/2014 8:55 pm
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http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html


 
Posted : 17/12/2014 9:05 pm
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I did the same thing and used roger musson's book. I've done one set with DT comp and another with ACI double butted spokes from cyclebasket and for whatever reason I found the ACI spokes nicer to build with and less than half the price.


 
Posted : 17/12/2014 9:49 pm
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In my experience, alloy nipples are not worth the weight saving. They are a pita. They will seize on after 6 months and round off when you look at them to adjust any tension.


 
Posted : 17/12/2014 11:17 pm

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