You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
@coconut - this is going to blow your mind.
https://www.specialized.com/au/en/chisel-comp-evo/p/4274939?color=5436775-4274939
So glad I stumbled on this thread. Was trying to justify £2700 of debt for the posh Chisel when I saw a 2023 Epic EVO for £2k. Can't fkn wait ?
I’ve been pondering a chisel fs to replace my chisel ht.
thought I would wait until the new year, but balfes sent out a 10% off everything code, so placed an order earlier for a chisel fs comp.
whilst I agree there are great prices on the old epic evo, the chisel has better geo and spec in my opinion and it’s not made of plastic, so will compliment my Raaw Madonna well.
same boat tho…. Can’t ruddy wait!
Was looking at getting the Frame only and swapping some parts over from a current rigid set up. Possibly try the DT Swiss F232 which gets some good reviews and can be had for a reasonable price.
Then Specialized confirmed they will be bringing in the new Chisel FS Comp - Evo spec in the new year.......... looks like some great upgrades for an extra £300. Weight still looks very good. Decisions ... decisions.....
Was looking at getting the Frame only and swapping some parts over from a current rigid set up. Possibly try the DT Swiss F232 which gets some good reviews and can be had for a reasonable price.
Then Specialized confirmed they will be bringing in the new Chisel FS Comp – Evo spec in the new year………. looks like some great upgrades for an extra £300. Weight still looks very good. Decisions … decisions…..
Chisel Comp Evo
I was looking at the frame as well but i still think you could build something nicer for £3k with the frame only with all the deals about at the moment. Also doesn't look as great a deal at full RRP when the Epic 8 has already been reduced as low as £3.2k recently. Given the recent pattern with Specialized sales it'll be reduced 30-40% in less than 6 months.
I was looking at the frame as well but i still think you could build something nicer for £3k with the frame only with all the deals about at the moment. Also doesn’t look as great a deal at full RRP when the Epic 8 has already been reduced as low as £3.2k recently. Given the recent pattern with Specialized sales it’ll be reduced 30-40% in less than 6 months.
Yes, in no rush, likely a project for the Spring. When they discount the frame that's probably the time to go for it.
Had mine a few weeks now, XL size Chisel FS base, it's 15kg with pedals and bottle cages etc
I'll be making some upgrades over the next year, starting with those forks, I weighed them at just over 2.5kg and the cassette, it's 711g (will be going on the kickr though so not a complete waste).
Initial thoughts are that I want the bars lower (stack is higher than my XL sonder Evol) and the grips were too thin for my taste. Just need to put the miles in now.
[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54282026545_56d30e30fd_b.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54282026545_56d30e30fd_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2qGHzkp ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/le_grande_momo/ ]Matt Cotterill[/url], on Flickr
Got myself a base Chisel FS Shimano in August last year, and covered 200 miles on the stock bike which (in size S) weighed 14.4kg with pedals and one bottle cage. Here it is in stock form:
I decided to take some weight off, and improve transmission etc. Opted for a 2021 SID Ultimate Raceday fork, which shaved 1kg off the front. I then went for an XT drivetrain which shaved 400g off the bike. Both upgrades were worth it. Here's what it looks like now at 13kg after covering an additional 50 mies:
Going for the 'comp' is a very sensible option. It's already lighter, has a slightly better drivetrain, better fork, and a shock that can be serviced in most places. There aren't many places that will service the X Fusion O2 Pro rear shock - plus if you want to tune it, I'm not sure the knowledge or parts are out there. The comp is worth the extra £700 if those things matter to you. A few things to point out:
1- Base 'Shimano' model isn't totally Shimano - cranks and BB are 'Prowheel' branded. YMMV as far as getting a replacement or different chainring for it. Going to a full XT drivetrain, it's a lot quieter/smoother so I'm pleased.
2- Switching to the SID forks required a new front rotor - stock is 160mm (despite what the sales blurb claims), and I had to replace it with a 180mm rotor.
3- Base model brakes are fine, but not sinter pad compatible. Apparently, to go sintered, new calipers and rotors are required. Bear that in mind.
4- Headset lasted 200 miles. No rubber seals on the top or bottom. I replaced it with an FSA headset and keep an eye on it. Could be user error, but worth mentioning.
5- Rear axle has come loose once or twice - not sure why. User error? I have greased it etc to avoid corrosion, so I might try something else.
6- VERY easy to setup as tubeless. It took minutes using a track pump, and has been trouble-free.
Having had 13 years off riding a MTB, previously owning a HT with only 90mm travel, I can't give you any realistic feedback on how it rides/performs compared to other FS bikes.
So far, it's been great though - but it'll take time to get used to how it performs going up VERY steep stuff. I might change the position of the flip-chip and/or bars for a better position when climbing.
There's a chap on mtb-news forum who built up the frameset with the whole bike weighing 9.95kg. Albeit without a dropper. Still, that's lighter than my Swerks Epic!
i have a comp in the garage. had it for a while now... yet to ride it 🙁
I have swapped some parts onto it (carbon wheels) and am awaiting an XX drivetrain for it. So once that arrives i am looking forward to munching some miles on it!
3- Base model brakes are fine, but not sinter pad compatible. Apparently, to go sintered, new calipers and rotors are required. Bear that in mind.
It's just the rotors usually. You might die, maybe from brake failure, maybe from something else. IIRC they're just not as hard as or ground flat after cutting like the more expensive ones so wear faster with sintered pads or may not stay as straight.
4- Headset lasted 200 miles. No rubber seals on the top or bottom. I replaced it with an FSA headset and keep an eye on it. Could be user error, but worth mentioning.
Not-glad to see nothings changed at Specialized. I remember my Pitch which would have been a similar value price-point had a open ball headset and the rear hub had an awful design that ate bearings (I seem to recall it might have been like a shimano hub with only 2 bearings but they were cartridges, and a sealed freehub you could neither service nor get a replacement for.
It* was enough to put me off ever buying a complete bike from them ever again. The headline spec was OK, but really you had to judge the value of it as a frameset and fork, most of the rest was junk.
*along with the SRAM brakes that failed, the horribly flexy stem, the downgraded cassette that was raw unplated steel (I've never seen one so heavy!)
Look closely at the wheels. I bet there is a huge weight saving on those. If they are anything like the HT then the rims are light enough but the hubs way an absolute ton. I replaced the shimano stock ones with 350's (SH) that weigh less combined that the OEM rear. Add the change from SP to butted spokes then wheels are now considerably lighter.
the whole bike weighing 9.95kg
I remember seeing the article/thread - VERY light. I have a Euro Millions ticket for tomorrow night though - you never know. 😉
i have a comp in the garage
Good choice. I honestly wasn't sure I was going to take to mountain biking again, hence getting the poverty spec. Comp is the way to go IMO.
It's just the rotors usually.
That's exactly what I thought - can't imagine why a caliper wouldn't be sinter compatible, unless it's something to do with the seals? I'll look into it again.
Look closely at the wheels. I bet there is a huge weight saving on those.
Totally agree - I have full carbon wheels on my road bike, but I'm a bit on the fence about carbon on the MTB. I was thinking of an Alu set, that will put up with my future mistakes.
The other thing I forgot to mention in my OP, is how the definition of XC has changed. I was never that brave back when I was riding regularly on my short travel HT. All I remember is it trying to spit me off.
I'm quite glad to have a FS bike to make up for how things have moved on, and the bike hasn't tried to buck me off (yet). 🤞
PS Riding a 29'er feels like riding a penny farthing compared to my old 26" bike on very tight or very steep stuff. I just need to get used to it.
I weighed the wheels while setting them up tubeless, just over 1800g for the pair, so not terrible considering they have a steel freehub. Forks, cassette and chain set will make the biggest difference to weight.
I’ve got a new pair of pistons on order for the Guide RSCs that have been languishing in my parts box for the last few years, they’ll be going on in place of the levels.
That's exactly what I thought - can't imagine why a caliper wouldn't be sinter compatible, unless it's something to do with the seals? I'll look into it again.
My Vitus came with 4+2 pot MT500 brakes, I've paid no attention to any warnings about pad types if there were any. Although I did swap the rotors as I had some nicer ones in the spares box.
I'm 99.99% sure the warning only applied to the rotors.
PS Riding a 29'er feels like riding a penny farthing compared to my old 26" bike on very tight or very steep stuff. I just need to get used to it.
I never really found this, the improved rolling more than made up for the longer wheelbase in anything technical, it might take slightly more input to get a modern bike to corner, but it won't get stuck on a root/rock/pothole halfway round the berm either so you don't need to make as much/many inputs either.
Where it was noticeable is on flat out bike-park style sections where the added weight and gyroscopic effect makes itself felt. But again, the flipside of that is the bike if far more stable and sticks to the corners like it's glued to the floor compared to old skittish bikes.
There's a few sections of local trails that used to absolutely terrify me, steep, loose, muddy, chutes that ended in tight bends across the slope etc and were just a case of rolling into them and hoping. Modern bikes let you actually attack them. And I'm not sure I've got any better at riding, I'm certainly more risk adverse!
Waiting on my cycle2work voucher to come through. Tredz have reserved me a Base. Would go Comp but voucher limit is 2500.
Recent review from Brink:
Wil, formally of this parish, has built one up here:
https://flowmountainbike.com/tests/specialized-chisel-frameset-2025/
And there is a mainly US based thread on MTBR that has a bit more traction than this:
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/chisel-fs-thread.1232352/
Just serviced the air can (250 miles is roughly 20 hours). Just a clean and re-lube. Feels lovely - a little service goes a long way. May as well keep this X-Fusion shock going for as long as possible (service parts are like hen's teeth in the UK).
I weighed the wheels while setting them up tubeless, just over 1800g for the pair
Thanks - that's good to know. I saw another post (not on this forum) suggesting they're just over 2kg, but they were off a Chisel HT IIRC.
I'm 99.99% sure the warning only applied to the rotors.
Good to know - I'll look into it. Had to go to a 180mm rotor to accommodate the SID fork, so it's just a case of changing the rear rotor when I'm ready.
Tredz have reserved me a Base. Would go Comp but voucher limit is 2500.
I've seen a few discounted (though base models), so you *might* be able to get your hands on one (depending on size).
Here's a UK based store, with a shop soiled bike for sale (not sure if it qualifies for the scheme):
https://www.certini.co.uk/bikes/mountain-bikes/shop-soiled-specialized-chisel-comp-shimano-mountain-bike--x-large__99228?currency=GBP&chosenAttribute=93825-5105%20SS%205707V&srsltid=AfmBOop0TBPf3toVMhScczXmGMAK4fVCChMMcuz8vOJKigCX1ncotQcDvVg
These guys are local to me. Cracking lads. You might be able to add accessories upto the value of £2500 on a new one. A fork maybe?
https://www.bicyclechain.co.uk/shop/bikes/sub/mountain/specialized-chisel-90841266/option/
I think Will at flow reallly likes his
My Vitus came with 4+2 pot MT500 brakes, I've paid no attention to any warnings about pad types if there were any.
It's just the rotors usually.
Just an update - after calling my LBS and searching for answers, here's the Shimano compatibility chart:
https://productinfo.shimano.com/en/compatibility/C-192
There's no sinter option for the BR-MT410 calipers... despite the marketing bumph suggesting there is. I'm not picking on this particular retailer - various web sites suggest they are compatible... but it conflicts with Shimano's chart:
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Shimano-BR-MT410-Deore-2-pot-Calliper-without-adapters-Front-Rear_234186.htm
So it looks like there's no OEM offering... it's either aftermarket, or a different set of calipers.
Another reason to go for the Chisel FS Comp (avoiding the base spec Shimano) - it comes with the M6100 series brakes (various pad options available from Shimano) and absolute clarity regarding the use of sintered pads. 👍
MT520 & MT420 4 pot callipers can use resin and sintered pads.
MT410 & MT500 are resin pad only. Shimano resin only callipers use a wider pad than the callipers that use sintered pads, these are paired with rotors with a wider braking surface. Shimano do not make any sintered pad compatible rotors with the wider braking surface.
MT520 & MT420 4 pot callipers can use resin and sintered pads.
MT410 & MT500 are resin pad only. Shimano resin only callipers use a wider pad than the callipers that use sintered pads, these are paired with rotors with a wider braking surface. Shimano do not make any sintered pad compatible rotors with the wider braking surface.
hmmm, I'll have to go check my bike, I'm 90% sure it's a MT420 front and MT410 rear.
And I'm running RT86 rotors.
I'm now torn between condemning Shimano for creating an incompatibility minefield and saying it'll be fine as long as the rotor arms don't wear.
For the full warranty voiding build, I've seen OEM Magura MT5 calipers and hoses for £50 each, and BL-M8100 levers for £60/pair. Shigura brakes for less than I've seen a pair of either brands complete offerings! The only reason I'm not jumping on that is I bought 4 full sets of front/rear kevlar pads which will probably do me for a few years at least! Same for the Guides on my other bike.
Shimano Calliper Pad Rotor Compatibility
I didn't know about narrow and wide pads and bought narrow pad rotor but I had a wide pad calliper. I've probably ridden about 500 miles and can see that pad is wearing unevenly and the rotor is wearing on the spider as well as the braking surface. I know I should change the rotor to the correct one.
Had a good look over the fluro yellow version the other day and they are very nice bit's of kit. Went for something different in the end but reckon I'd have been happy with the Chisel. Front end is a ton heavier than the Epic 8 though so shows how much weight you can save in forks and wheels.
MT410 & MT500 are resin pad only. Shimano resin only callipers use a wider pad than the callipers that use sintered pads, these are paired with rotors with a wider braking surface. Shimano do not make any sintered pad compatible rotors with the wider braking surface.
Thanks - so I'm not going mad. Disappointing that many retailers are copying and pasting product descriptions (not sure what the source is) which is misleading.
So the new question is:
Are BR-M6100 calipers compatible with the 410 levers? If yes, it should be a cheap and easy way to get into the 'narrow' ecosystem (more rotor and pad options).
🤞
Are BR-M6100 calipers compatible with the 410 levers? If yes, it should be a cheap and easy way to get into the 'narrow' ecosystem (more rotor and pad options).
Yes, same fitting at the calliper. It's SLX and above that have the banjo fitting.
Yes, same fitting at the calliper. It's SLX and above that have the banjo fitting.
Thanks - got the calipers on order, as well as a 'narrow' type disc for the rear (I was forced into a 180mm front disc when I upgraded to SID forks). Hopefully I get away with the same hoses - stock hoses with the 410 series brakes have a wider internal diameter (more expansion under pressure)... but I am light. 🤞
Had a good look over the fluro yellow version the other day and they are very nice bit's of kit. Went for something different in the end but reckon I'd have been happy with the Chisel. Front end is a ton heavier than the Epic 8 though so shows how much weight you can save in forks and wheels.
Yeah - swapping from the Recon to a SID Ultimate saved 1kg on my front end... I imagine a few other goodies could take even more weight off.
I'm not trying to set and PBs or win races, but it's easier to lift the bike in/out of the car after swapping forks and drivetrain. I'm getting on fine with the other bits and pieces (apart from the brakes when it's wet/muddy), but I expect I'll want a few more shiny bits as time goes on.
Hmmm
Looking at the spec for my Vitus I'm now not even convinced it came with the 'correct' rotors. MT400 rear caliper but the spec sheet says RT-66 rotors (I cant remember what was actually on it, the spec is a bit of a COVID special, a Trail/ Enduro bike with trekking (long levers) brakes!)
Might need to do some tinkering. Annoyingly I have a full set of almost unused M785 brakes in the spares box, which would be an upgrade to the levers and the 'correct' caliper, but they have the wrong ispec clamp. And I'm not sure I CBA buying new hoses, and a wolftooth adapter for such a minor improvement. I've got massive hands so squeezing the levers harder has never seemed like a hardship when it comes to cheap brakes!
Just a little update:
-I fitted M6100 calipers (with sintered pads), straight swap with the M410 calipers. Quite happy with the set - thanks cerrado-tu-ruido.
-Turns out the rear M410 caliper was leaking - appears to be where the two halves join together, though I'm not sure (brake hose wasn't exactly torqued from factory, which I realised upon removing it).
-Something to note: I think there are two versions of the SM-RT64 Centre Lock rotors? 'Deore' comes with an internally splined lock ring (for QR type wheels?); 'SLX' has the externally splined lock ring? Regardless, it's all sorted.
-Bars for my S size bike were 770mm (as I measured them) - trimmed them to 740 after experimenting with holding the bars in different positions.
Getting there slowly but surely. 👍
Finally got my C2W voucher at the end of Feb. Bike arrived last week. Ridden it a couple of times. Seems like a good all round bike which is what I wanted.
Fitted my Hunt XC wheels yesterday. Hasn't shaved off my weight. Its 14.56 kg which is just under 32lbs. Thats a size Large. Other than forks I don't think it will be easy to save much weight. Ideally I'd like it to be under 30lbs but the Recon forks feel quite nice. However I do plan to fit some SIDs when I find some
i went for a first ride on the Chisel a week or so ago. Bike performed well. feels fast.
I started with the Comp model in medium, then changed the following parts from stock:
XT 2 pot brakes
Sram XX Transmission groupset
Zipp 1zero HiTop wheelset.
I have also fitted a 180mm OneUp V3 seatpost as the original post was just over the minimum insertion depth. 125mm drop didnt leave much left in the frame!
I have weighed it and it came in at exactly 28lbs. (possibly a few grams more now, as that was with the 125mm dropper)
Not much more weight to be saved without changing small components like stem and bars. But it should be a good mix of durability and speed. And its 10lbs lighter than my Raaw Madonna, so will feel like a rocket regardless 🙂
First proper ride out on mine yesterday, have made a couple of changes from stock already, swapped in some 10mm rise bars (cut to 760mm) and slammed the stem. Fitted the ESI extra chunky grips from the spares box (standard ones were too thin for my liking) and swapped the front brake for a Guide ultimate with a 200mm rotor, I have the matching rear brake for when I can be bothered to deal with the internal cabling. I've also fitted the GX AXS mech and shifter from my other bike, they're easy enough to switch so I'm not racing to buy a second set.
I'm really impressed with how this bike handles, had a couple of sketchy moments where the front tyre (Racing ray) wanted to wash out but once I dialled in to just how hard I could push it. The Rekon is surprisingly good, rear shock feels good to me too, although I think mine may be faulty, the lockout/compression switch seems to make no difference to how it rides.
The dropper remote feels overly stiff to me though, not sure if it's the lever or if there's a tight kink inside the frame, going to try the PNW lever I have fitted to my other bike to see if that makes a difference before pulling the cable and rerouting it.
Was my first time riding MTB clipped in for at least 6 years, nearly had a couple of forget to unclip moments, thankfully riding solo so no one around to witness my clumsy oafishness!
First proper ride out on mine yesterday, have made a couple of changes from stock already, swapped in some 10mm rise bars (cut to 760mm) and slammed the stem. Fitted the ESI extra chunky grips from the spares box (standard ones were too thin for my liking) and swapped the front brake for a Guide ultimate with a 200mm rotor, I have the matching rear brake for when I can be bothered to deal with the internal cabling. I've also fitted the GX AXS mech and shifter from my other bike, they're easy enough to switch so I'm not racing to buy a second set.
I'm really impressed with how this bike handles, had a couple of sketchy moments where the front tyre (Racing ray) wanted to wash out but once I dialled in to just how hard I could push it. The Rekon is surprisingly good, rear shock feels good to me too, although I think mine may be faulty, the lockout/compression switch seems to make no difference to how it rides.
The dropper remote feels overly stiff to me though, not sure if it's the lever or if there's a tight kink inside the frame, going to try the PNW lever I have fitted to my other bike to see if that makes a difference before pulling the cable and rerouting it.
Was my first time riding MTB clipped in for at least 6 years, nearly had a couple of forget to unclip moments, thankfully riding solo so no one around to witness my clumsy oafishness!
Good to get out on a shiny new bike - even better after a hiatus. I had 13 years off MTB riding - missed out on a lot of fun (and cleaning!).
The X-Fusion "lockout" on my bike firms up the rear (a little) for pedalling... it's not a lockout really. To avoid the faff of using the lockout (rightly or wrongly), I've set my sag in the seated position - else I find it too soft even when descending out of the saddle (bottomed out once or twice).
I really think I could do with a volume spacer though, but parts are like hen's teeth here in the UK - little to no support. Also, the air can service has quite a short interval IIRC - 25 hours? 🤷♂️
The dropper remote works very well on mine - it's easier to use than my gear lever. Maybe check the routing, etc.
Bike's done 400 miles so far (200 this year after the rebuild). Nothing's broken or worn out apart from the headset at 200 miles. 👍
Two more outings last week and one so far this week, matching rear brake has been fitted now with a 180mm rotor. After so many years riding overbuilt trail bikes I’m falling head over heels for this bike, the handling is brilliant and it just wants to go fast all the time.
I definitely want to get some shorter cranks, most likely 170mm, a fair few pedal strikes on anything vaguely rooty last week.
Looking great. 👌
a fair few pedal strikes on anything vaguely rooty last week.
Same here, did that once or twice at FOD on Saturday (but the flip chip is in the default 'low' position).
I have 165 cranks on the road & gravel bikes... will probably get some for the MTB too at some point.
Got a little carried away over the weekend, spotted some lightly used Fox 34 performance elite with the grip 2 damper - 130mm travel, same spec as fitted to the chisel evo, going cheap on eBay. Fitted them yesterday, didn’t think about them not fitting with the front wheel though, so I’ve had to swap the wheels between my bikes for now.
Also have a pair of used 170mm XTR cranks on the way. Currently weighing in at 14.04kg with my fairly chunky wheels fitted.
Fitted them yesterday, didn’t think about them not fitting with the front wheel though, so I’ve had to swap the wheels between my bikes for now.
Very posh. What stopped the stock front wheel being fitted (was it the brakes?).
Keen to know what a 130mm fork offers over a 120 in real life. Is it really just 10mm, or is there more to it (ie such forks are tuned for different riding).
34s should in theory be stiffer and probably lighter. The oem wheel maybe did not fit as it may come with torque caps.
As nixie said, stock front wheel came with torque caps to suit the rock shox forks.
It's time for a wheel clean and service - an opportunity to weigh the wheelset. Stock wheels, Chisel FS (Shimano) - with rim tape and tubeless valves (no discs).
Front wheel: 860g
Rear wheel: 1110g
Total: 1970g
Not too bad. They are centre lock, mind.
I'm replacing the X-Fusion shock on my poverty spec Chisel FS.
I started looking at shock tunes to try to get something suitable aftermarket. I struggled to get specs of the Rockshox Deluxe shock that comes on the Chisel FS bike, plus it was difficult to find a 190x40 anyway...
...so I started looking SIDLuxe shocks. The closest tune would be for the 2021-2023 Epic Evos (the ones with a SIDLuxe shock).
Shock tune for the A1 chassis SIDLuxe (confirmed from two shock serial numbers):
- Rebound tune: M
- Compression tune: L1
- Volume reducer: 1Token
- Check tune: STD
- Pedal tune: n/a (only 2 position lever)
- Lockout force: 430
Shock tune for the newer A2 chassis SIDLuxe, sold aftermarket (based on one shock serial number):
- Rebound tune: R29
- Compression tune: C25
- Volume reducer: 0Token
- Check tune: STD
- Pedal tune: MD
- Lockout force: X8
Anyone fancy looking up their Deluxe shock serial number and posting the tune details on this thread?
Hmm, trying to post a second time. Everything you need below? From a ‘22 epic EVO.
Specifications
-
Eye to eye / Stroke190x40
-
Air volumeDebonAir
-
Remoten/a
-
Hose length/Cable Exitn/a
-
Model designator (SR)Select+
-
Damper TypeRL
-
Rebound tuneM
-
Compression tuneLC
-
Pedal tunen/a
Everything you need below? From a ‘22 epic EVO.
Nice one - thank you. 👍 A few bits dropped of your pic (tokens, and check tune), but basically it has a medium rebound tune and their lightest compression tune.
The last piece of the puzzle, would be the specs/tune for the Deluxe that comes stock on a Chisel FS to see if they're comparable. 👌
-
Volume reducer0 Tokens
-
Check TuneSTD
hope to help!
Has anyone here built one of these up yet in a slightly burlier trail/downcountry setup? I'm getting tempted to go for the frameset and put all the parts off my trail hardtail on it - 130mm fork, 2.4 tyres etc. The geo actually looks a lot better than my (non progressive geometry) trail bike to me - a bit slacker and longer but less BB drop so possibly more fun/playful feeling.
Only thing I'm wary of is the durability of the frame/flex-stay, I'd be doing a bit of everything on it but I do like jump trails (Woburn/Chicksands/Leamington etc). Not loads of tech/chunk where I'd need a plusher bike really but it'd need to be able to take a few hits! Just feel like a modern trail bike might be overkill for me, plus historically I've always overbiked and hated riding the thing anywhere other than downhill. This seems like it'd be pretty fun for everything and I've never really had a MTB that wants to go fast up and along as well as down.
hope to help!
Thanks. 👍 So your '22 Epic Evo shock tune:
B2 chassis Deluxe (I'm assuming it's a B2 due to the model year?):
- Rebound tune: M
- Compression tune: LC
- Volume reducer: 0Token
- Check tune: STD
- Pedal tune: n/a (only 2 position lever).
Has anyone here built one of these up yet in a slightly burlier trail/downcountry setup? I
Or even bought themselves a Chisel Comp Evo? I think @momo has a 130mm fork on his bike.
I have indeed fitted a 130mm fork to mine, I think it’s the same spec of fork as fitted to the evo too.
I haven’t had the chance to properly test it in anger yet, I have some tears in one of the ligaments in my right wrist that are taking an age to heal up.
As a bike though, I wouldn’t choose to take it to bike park wales, but I probably will take it to the Peak District rather than my 150mm trail bike, albeit with some more suitable rubber
Just an update on shock tunes. Here's what I've found - NOTE, lacking info for the stock Chisel Comp shock tune. Please do chip in if you have a Chisel Comp.
All Epic Evo tunes - various years and specs:
A1 chassis SIDLuxe (confirmed from two shock serial numbers):
- Rebound tune: M
- Compression tune: L1
- Volume reducer: 1Token
- Check tune: STD
- Pedal tune: n/a (only 2 position lever)
- Lockout force: 430
A2 chassis SIDLuxe, sold aftermarket as an upgrade (based on one shock serial number):
- Rebound tune: R29
- Compression tune: C25
- Volume reducer: 0Token
- Check tune: STD
- Pedal tune: MD
- Lockout force: X8
B2 chassis Deluxe Select+ RL (I'm assuming it's a B2 from a '22 bike - check/confirm yourself):
- Rebound tune: M
- Compression tune: LC
- Volume reducer: 0Token
- Check tune: STD
- Pedal tune: n/a (only 2 position lever).
C1 chassis Deluxe Select+ RL, Debonair (progressive) (based on one shock serial number from a '23 bike):
- Rebound tune: Linear
- Compression tune: LC
- Volume reducer: 0 Neg, 3 Pos
- Check tune: Light
- Pedal tune: n/a (only 2 position lever)
- Lockout force: 430
Plenty of options out there if you have a base spec bike that needs a new shock - hoping this is a good starting point for anyone looking for a replacement.
i was hoping my shock tune was saved on my RS Trailhead account, but it appears not. I remember having to unmount the shock from the frame to get to the serial number.
In other news, i removed the SPD's i was running on my chisel and replaced them with some flat. its transformed the bike (which says more about my inability to ride confidently in clips). Feels so much more fun now. I can really ride it harder.
Its such a great bike, covers ground so well and is still sturdy enough (so far) for local trails. Loving it.
i was hoping my shock tune was saved on my RS Trailhead account, but it appears not. I remember having to unmount the shock from the frame to get to the serial number.
In other news, i removed the SPD's i was running on my chisel and replaced them with some flat. its transformed the bike (which says more about my inability to ride confidently in clips). Feels so much more fun now. I can really ride it harder.
Its such a great bike, covers ground so well and is still sturdy enough (so far) for local trails. Loving it.
Very pleased with mine - my first FS bike. I was shopping for a HT, but a friend of mine who races Enduro recommended I buy this instead - so glad I did.
You swapped to what? Freddy Krueger pedals?! I'd be petrified of turning my shins into a sandwich filling LOL. Just goes to show though, confidence is the most important thing when out having fun. 👍
A bit more digging in the shock absorber department. It turns out the Chisel FS shares its shock link & extension with the MY21 Epic Evo:
| Component | SKU | Part Name | Notes | |
| Shocklink | S204300002 | SHL MY21 EPIC EVO, SHOCK LINK, ALLOY | Shared part with MY21 Epic EVO | |
| Shock Extension | S206300001 | SHK EXT MY21 EPIC EVO, SHOCK EXTENSION, ALLOY | Shared part with MY21 Epic EVO |
Source: https://support.specialized.com/kb/sp_en-us/content/ECV3-5445/Chisel-Replacement-Parts
So it looks like a BikeYoke Yoke EP03 could work. This is sold as a solution to allow the use of 210x50 shocks on the Epic Evo.
More info here: https://bikeyoke.com/en/yoke-ep03/ep03
Interesting. 🧐
Was looking at BikeYoke the other day as my MY20 EpicEvo brain-shock is getting a bit squishy-noised so thinking I might look at replacing the brain and shock and get a standard shock.....
Would you need to replace the yoke to fit after market on the Chisel tho - wouldn't the standard one work?
Was looking at BikeYoke the other day as my MY20 EpicEvo brain-shock is getting a bit squishy-noised so thinking I might look at replacing the brain and shock and get a standard shock.....
Would you need to replace the yoke to fit after market on the Chisel tho - wouldn't the standard one work?
I suppose some '21-23 Epic Evo owners wanted to use something other than the 190x40 offerings at the time. I wonder whether the 210x52.5 options were broader and/or better?
Not sure any Chisel FS owners are in the same boat now - but it's an option to try, albeit a bit ££.
I managed to get a take-off from a new Epic Evo 7 bike in the end - 190x40, with the right tune out of the box. Exactly what I wanted. Yet to take it for a rip though.
Specialized has released new builds and colors for the Chisel FS. For those like me who aren’t keen on pink, there’s also a new frame-only colour!
https://www.specialized.com/gb/en/chisel-frameset/p/4221773?color=5446106-4221773
all the new colours look pretty nice. And the comp has a mechanical T-Type on it. I am still very much enjoying mine. Covers ground so fast!
timely, just been looking at picking up the comp and some carbon roval wheels via the cycle scam scheme!
Not a fan of that lime colour so dull colour it might end up being.
Thats much more palatable! I've been patiently waiting to see if the frame only option ever dropped to a grand in a sale somewhere - it got pretty close, but not *quite* there - I'll go for it if it does as a swap from my hardtail!
Yeah I'm liking that purple Chisel frameset!
I think if they’d released that colour from the start, I’d have bitten the bullet already. Shame used bike prices are so low right now, I’d be lucky to get more than a bag of Quavers for either of my bikes at these prices.