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I've got a Camber Evo (2015) with the alloy wide Roval wheels (not the whizzy carbon rimmed jobs).
Rear has a bit of side to side wobble just developing.
Plan was to service it so I have to get some 19mm cone spanners for the NDS. Having ground down a cheap 19mm box spanner for a quick but not very effective temporary fix today. 😈
But what's inside it?
Is it cartridges or cup and cone or what?
My money is cup and cone but would rather know for sure before tearing it apart.
Thanks
Cartridge bearings according to the specs.
[url= http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/so-much-new-specialized-hi-lo-hubs-924806.html#post11414434 ]Looks[/url] like cartridges...
Thanks. Will take a proper look once I've got some proper spanners bought. It appears from the link there may not be a lot of love for the hubs!
So my roval wheels are now back in the shop for the 2nd time in 5 months. Got the bike serviced about 3 weeks ago and a rear wheel bearing replaced under warranty. 3 rides since the service and the rear is away again. Very frustrating. It is cartridge bearings inside and is apparently a DT Swiss 360 hub
A lot of hubs (road and mountain) use the DT 360 "guts" (internals), these are a cheaper DT Taiwan made pawl drive / radial spring as opposed to the swiss made Ratchet drive found in 350 and 240 hubs
Easy to find spare free hubs for 360, any local dealer can order that part through Madison.
All my Roval wheel hubs used common cartridge bearings and could be removed and carefully refitted using a socket set if you don't have bearing extractors / presses.
Well worth checking the bearings to see what they fitted. if they are cheap replacement bearings they can go nasty quickly. should be easy to source quality bearings from a site like simplybearings
3 rides though 😕
Rear bearings are 6802 rs. Just need to do the two in the hub body usually. freehubs not so much an issue.
You lot are great thanks.
My rear wheel on my 2014 Evo developed a little side to side play and all it needed to tighten it was an 8 or 10mm hex inserted in one side of the hub, I forget which, and an adjustable spanner on the end cap/nut thingy. Sorry, trying to describe it from memory... It's been running fine since