[Closed] Soooo annoyed with my drivetrain....help....please?

Slippping on cassette or chainset?

Chainrings are too worn, so the chain is riding up under power...

Either put the old stuff back on, or buy new rings too.

essessit?

no need to thank me.

ring is borked.

if all you haven't changed is the middle rign and you're convinced there's no damage to mech hanger or frame causign alignment problems then I'd go for the middle ring as culprit.

here's worn + new rings to compare;

[img] [/img]

Agreed sounds like middle ring slippage over teeth as allowed to between rings?

if you have new chain, new jockey wheels & new cassette and its still slipping then you have worn chainring(s) on the front.

Get your plastic out again & buy a new chainring or chainrings.

Yup, there's nothing else left that's in the load path, it must be the chainring(s)

Ok, bit more info. Whilst leaning against something on the bike and i apply force to the pedals it also skips/slips. I have tried looking to see if its the front or back but its hard to tell. The chain does end up coming off nearly whilst doing this on the front ring.

Would it be the freehub at all?. I used a fair bit of grease but not excessive however it was a lot slippier than the previous grease in there.

If it is chainrings, what do i need to diy, obviously correct rings (do they need to be same brand/match)....would i need new bolts etc and gears resetting at all?. Alternatively if i bought a chainset would i again need gears resetting?

if it's slipping with the bike stationary but the drivetrain under load then it's likely the freehub is to blame.

I'd get it into an lbs if I were you. They may recommend changing the chainring too but it could be more than that.

way to much faff just buy a complete new bike problem solved 🙂

If you have replaced chain/cassette then it wi slip on worn teeth up front.
You will need to take the cranks off to change the middle ring.

I would say it is well worth popping to your LBS for a quick chat, they should be able to tell straight away if your rings are worn, or quickly have a peek in your free hub.

Try putting the power down in the big or granny rings. If no slippage then its the middle ring. If it does slip look at the freehub.

Hope pro 2, dont put grease in the hub just some light oil

if it's slipping with the bike stationary but the drivetrain under load then it's likely the [s]freehub[/s] [i]borked middle ring[/i] is to blame.

Show us a close-up photo of the front chainrings.

All you need is an allen key and sometimes a screwdriver to change them, plus the ability to take he cranks off to change the middle ring for most chainsets.

Hugh, always change the rings, cassette and chain at the same time. No matter what others may say, it'll never work properly otherwise.

Are you riding tonight?

Bigyinn...just tried that small ring up/down cassette no slipping.

Big ring up/down cassette no slipping.

Popped it onto middle slipped straightaway with hardly any effort at all, up/down cassette it slips.

So could i confidently say its the middle ring?

Spence...no not riding tonight, abandoned a ride at Chicksands this afternoon not even getting out the car park due to the slipping and me fuming.

OK, you know where I am if you need any help.
S.

OK, you know where I am if you need any help.

Thanks.

You [s]will[/s] may need to take the cranks off to change the middle ring
depends on cranks and pedals. Inner ring def need crank removal, unusual IME for middle ring to be borked but inner ok but I guess you may not use inner much.

Tool wise, what cranks? crank extractor might be needed but if it's a modern shimano crank you will probably only need allen keys, [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3785 ]shimano crank star spanner tool[/url] and probably [url= http://www.fawkes-cycles.co.uk/7383/products/Shimano-Chainwheel-Peg-Spanner.aspx?utm_source=Froogle&utm_medium=PriceComp&utm_term=Froogle&utm_content=None&utm_campaign=PriceComp1&gclid=CLmDhcLQq7MCFU3HtAodejgAZA ]chainring bolt tool[/url].

Quick check on the free hub would be to drop it back off, clean it up and reassemble with just a little oil on the freewheel pawls.
It wouldn't be the slippiness of the grease that's the problem, more the thickness / stickiness preventing the pawls from popping out and engaging properly.

Heres some poor pictures of my middle ring

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

[IMG] [/IMG]

unusual IME for middle ring to be borked but inner ok but I guess you may not use inner much.

Looks pretty beat up even allowing for the weird tooth shapes on middle rings. Notice the big wide U shape of the spaces between the teeth and the relatively pointy teeth compared to the more rounded teeth and tighter radii in between on the small ring.

Yep, that's well worn. Very common to wear out middle ring while the others are fine. Depends a bit on your riding style of course but I don't think I've ever needed to replace the granny.

middle ring is borked.

It is a 4-bolt 94mm BCD 32T chainring.
I would get a Deore steel equivalent from CRC approx £12.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38192

You should be able to change the ring without removing the cranks...you just need the 5mm Allen and a chainring wrench.
I would copperslip the bolts on re-assembly, but others will differ.

PaulD

Middle ring needs changing,They look elongated.

I did the same a few months ago,see it a lot on bikes in the shop.

Paulid...what is a chainring wrench? 😳

Do i need 10speed specific rings , same thing goes if i buy a chainset does it need to be 10 speed like my drivetrain?

9 and 10-sp rings are the same size as the inner size of the chains is the same.

Shimano 10-sp will be a composite ring at £24....the link I offered is a 9-sp which will work fine.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=83374

Chainring wrench is:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=14305

PaulD

in some of the pics the tooth length looks uneven, like as if the tips of the teeth have worn down...which if is the case then that would explain the slippage as the teeth cannot get enough purchase on the chain...time for a new chainring...you may not even need to take the chainset off...remove the outer ring and undo the middle ring and see if you can slip it off over the chainset...but remember to remove the pedal on the drive side first...

I'd go with the others and change the middle ring.

Another good check to see if your chain is jumping on the front cogs is to mark the chain and tooth with a bit of chalk, then try to make the chain jump under load (without turning the cranks too much) and then see if the mark on the chain is still lining up with the mark on the cog?

Yep your middle ring is borked 😕 ..... copyright tracknicko 😉

Must be all the power hill climbing you've been doing locally 😉

Yep your middle ring is borked

wish i'd thought of that.

Must be all the power hill climbing you've been doing locally

you sir are a cheeky git!!

Ok, thanks people for all your help this afternoon i am now calmed right down and level headed.I have ordered the chainring and tool PaulID supplied a link to, hopefully it gets here before the weekend so i can get on it at sundays thing.

Given most riding is done in the middle ring, im confused as to why you would come to this conclusion..

A useful tip when undoing the bolts, make sure your knukcles etc aren't going to end up in the chainring teeth when the bolt lets go, i've seen many butcher-shop scenarios, some literally within minutes of being warned.

If you're going to try and do the whole job with the crankset on the bike put the gain in the big ring to avoid the gouges on your knuckles being too deep.

make sure your knukcles etc aren't going to end up in the chainring teeth when the bolt lets go

The crankset is off the bike chainrings stripped off no dramas at all 5 mins.

Update.......new chainring arrived fitted really easily, out on test ride all gears ok with no slipping. Many thanksfor all your help. Now bring on round 1winter series 8)