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Building my new Solaris Max (tasty looking biek so far!) and have emailed Cotic with the same question.. but figured I'd tap into the hive...
Syntace X12.. whats the benefit?
The issue I have is that it seems that the Solaris dropout 'indents' are machined quite a bit larger than the 12mm end caps on my DT wheels. Now, every bike I've had since 135mm has had these indents so that the wheel when dropped into the indents is centered to the axle, the axle goes straight in and righty tighty and you're in. No faff, done in a workstand or upside down and it works
With the solaris, the axle can deviate a solid 3mm off axis and first install meant I crossed the first thread. There's no starter either.. its straight into threads and you'd better be lined up!
Had to pull it out, chase the threads and go again (twice)..
Basically I had to be looking down the 'barrel' aligning it with one hand on the wheel and giving it the reach around to tighten the axle... the chance of me aligning that X12 in that frame in the dark/wet/snowy/cold/muddy trails while the cougars are ready to eat me for dinner is pretty much zero.
So, any input on where I'm going wrong?
I'm assuming that theres not a Syntace end cap standard that measures 21/22mm diameter rather than DT's 19mm?
A Hope hub aligns just fine, it could be that the DT endcaps are out of spec / too light. You could stick some plastic shims to the dropout circumference, kind of like the Torque Cap bodge.
l.e. Digging a bit deeper, you are correct: the original spec for X-12 non-boost does say 19mm. (
). I'll check how mine actually fits when I get home.
X-12 on my SolarisMax is my first rear bolt through experience, and I like it.
The standard has a number of key advantages:
The axle thread is within a frame insert, so it can be replaced.
There is a collet which closes and clamps the axle on the non-drive side as it is tightened.
The axle has a conical end, so that can easily locate into the threaded nut.
Incorporates a break-away mech hanger.
Wheel toe adjustment is possible if necessary, with use of an eccentric nut.
Because of the conical end on the axle, you just have to push the axle though the hub until it reaches the nut, keep going until it centers and the threads meet, and then start to tighten. As long as you are pushing it through, I don't see where you can go wrong. The conical end of the axle is sufficient guide to allow for some misalignment or for the hub to sit off axis in the frame. This is my experience. I am also using DT hubs.
I suppose that there is a chance that the drive-side nut is incorrectly installed and misaligned... but if it works fine with no wheel in place, then that suggests it is fine.
Gets a bit adverty but is generally good information.
Syntace X12 is a very particular system. There are other 12mm axles. Cotic have simply standardised onnthe well thought of Syntace. They were very resistant to TA’s and hung on to QR far longer than the rest of the industry.
Thanks all.
Because of the conical end on the axle, you just have to push the axle though the hub until it reaches the nut, keep going until it centers and the threads meet, and then start to tighten.
this is the bit that doesn't happen for me. There no self centering or starter/ease in to the threads.
The conical end is there but it's fighting some 2500g of wheel weight that starts off misaligned so has no chance of pulling itself straight without crossing.
Vince, thanks
Instead, hub caps are inset into the frame. This inset acts as a guide for installing the rear wheel while increasing the contact patch of the hub to the frame.
Seems the frame insets are too large to facilitate this double header on my solaris.
I'll try and get round to pulling it off and do some measuring.
Works perfectly with my Hope hub.
Sorry, I fail to see how you can make one bolt sound so complicated. Is your rear wheel boost alxe length (148mm OLN)?
There's no way that if everything is right that the threads should cross. If the bolt is in the hole it would be ok.