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Ive just bought a dropper post for my enduro frame and there isn't really a good run for the cable to go. Thinking of drilling a small hole to run the cable through. Any one done this? Anyone done it and died straight after?
Frame is pretty much like this, so where would you drill it?
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Don't do it if you think you might want to sell it at some time the future.
Drilled my Codeine before I'd taken the wrapping off....the seat tube is about 2ft thick.
Which post?
Get a stealth post and you won't have to do any drilling?
Have you bought a stealth or normal?
Can't see why you would have drill anything for a normal dropper but for a stealth is there a bottom to the seat tube or can the post just come out the bottom? If so then just run the cable out of the bottom.
Bought a normal Thompson dropper so not a stealth one
I would drill a hole below the U in Enduro then near the O in Pro. it will be fine. do it with a pilot drill then use the correct size drill bit and go in diagonal. with one of these [url= http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-drill-saw-set-3-pieces/89079 ]Drill bit[/url]
Just remember the cable will drop when the post goes down.
A frame that thick will be fine.
Get a stealth post and you won't have to do any drilling?
Eh? How do you get it out of the frame with no hole? No drilling required on non stealth Shirley?
Get a stealth post.
If your Enduro has lasted this long without cracking you don't want to start drilling a hole in it.
Mine is going in monday to be drilled and then epoxied.
[url= http://www.madmtb.com/forums/showthread.php?14062-Drilling-a-carbon-frame-to-take-a-Reverb-Stealth ]My original questions[/url]
Mine's going a bit closer to the headtube than that red ring once the composite expert oks it.
M Part sticky cable guides will be fine.
I dont see the advantage of drilling a hole apart from making it alot harder when taking the post off.
A retro fitted component that requires questionable modification of a perfectly servicable frame?
Is this not a marketing department's dream?
no.
You should see the kerfuffle to increase the rear travel from 90 to 125mm...
Not sure my ocd will let me have a cable just waving about on the top tube. Can't see a way round it other than 2 small holes
Its bad enough with the dropper cable zip tied when you want to remove the post, I wouldn't drill it.
Run it down the downtube with the other cables, if your OCD can't deal with a nice big loop up to the post, how about down the downtime, at the Sp of Specialized, bring it onto the seat mast and use a sticky cable mount (or epoxy one on) to keep it snug to the frame.
I was in a shop yesterday asking about dropper post routing. The shop assistant advised that it only had routing for a Specialized Command Post internally but someone at Specialized had said to him it was OK to drill lower down the seat post tube.
I was quite surprised!
Just so you're aware of things that may go wrong, we've got a fairly heavy commuter frame from a large and well respected manufacturer sitting in our scrap bin due to having a crack nearly all the way around the base of the seat tube, having started at the hole drilled for a mudguard boss.If you have to drill, it may be worth finishing off with a reamer, apparently they do it in the aircraft industry to help prevent cracks starting.
You don't have OCD - tyre logos aren't lined up with the valves, you didn't put the cranks and pedals level for the pic, you haven't re-painted your forks and cranks black to match your seatpost and stem, you're missing your bar plugs, and hell - your saddle and grips don't even match..!
OCD my arse, just run the cable along the top tube.
Not sure how that frame is but could you drill out one of the bottle mounts and poke cable through there?
Drill a frame, in general: Not a chance.
That's not my bike though idiotdogbrain 🙂 my logos are lined up and pedals are spirit level flat. Even whilst riding.
😉 fair play! In that case, I'd go with the suggestion of feeding it out of one of the bottle cage holes.
No.
Yes. Well, maybe.
Just get the cable down to the rear brake hose by the most direct route, then cable tie it to that, and then along it. You don't want to be drilling any holes near the headtube.
As all your other cables are external I would say no to drilling holes, again.
If you are that bothered about cable runs, return the Thomson and get a LEV.
You could buy aluminium guides from Ceeway, paint to make the frame and bond in place with epoxy.