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Stealth version to be exact. Fitted it all fine without any hiccups but noticed a couple of things which I'm not sure are normal, so thought I'd ask you guys so I know if I've got a good'un or a duffer!
First thing in surprised by is how sensitive to seatclamp torque it is... What I mean is literally not even a quarter turn of the seat bolt each way determines if the post extends all the way smoothly or is slow and stops half way....just seems to be a super fine tolerance?
The other thing is it normal to hear an audible clunk/tap upon reaching full extension or top-out, if so I wonder why they didn't put a silent top-out bumper in there?
Enlighten me folks....
I think you've bought a duffer. Want to post it to me and I'll check it our for you? 🙂
Are you using carbon paste as per the instructions? Indeed there is a fine line before you bugger up the action though.
Yes the mechanical end-stop is normal. It's actually a useful feature, leaves you in no doubt that your saddle is in the up position
No not used the assembly paste i didn't have any to hand, how essential is it and what exactly does it do?
Excuse me for the naive question
Basically helps stop the post moving but without the whole thing seizing.
Think you can buy the assembly paste in sachets or a tube (which I did for a tenner from CRC).
as matther01 says. I can get away without using it, just. Work better with though, just gives the clamp a little extra grip with less force needing applied.
Finish Line stuff is probably the easiest to get hold of
Don't worry it will soon be broken for no reason & will stop working after 1 ride, like mine. Not that I'm bitter or anything 😀
Hope not shinsplints!
I'm gonna be running post pretty much slammed so not too worried about it slipping, though it does feel tight enough.
Probs get hold of some assembly paste to be on the safe side asap.
Carbon paste FTW as per the instructions. Also a good torque wrench if you want to play safe.
It's carbon paste that I use...can't remember what is called tho
Is it agreed then that everyone's has an audible top-out?
both the things you mention are perfectly normal, both my reverbs 1 standard and 1 stealth have been sensitive to clamp pressure but have never moved in the seat tube.
they both had a top out clunk too.
Hi, I have just bought a Ritchey Liquid Torque sachet from CRC £2.99, should do the job hopefully.
Topout clunk normal and as said, very useful.
Have you checked its got 250psi in it? If its a bit low i'd imagine it'd be more sensitive to seatpost tightening.
This is the stuff - [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=30012 ]http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=30012[/url]
That's the stuff - like opposite to grease, it created friction so you can clamp the post securely with a lower torque on the clamp bolt.
Mine clunks a bit on topout too. Quite a dull noise, not harsh, reassuring when you are riding, you know it's back up. Slowing the return rate down at the remote lever will reduce the knock. The Fox has quite a positive stop in comparison.
I consider that I use a 'firm' clamp but have not noticed the restraint talked about here. Are you clamping mid-stem or near the locknut, I got the long type so plenty of insertion into the seat tube means its gripped near the top, just a thought. Coppa-slip is pence from engineering supplies or nut and bolt dealers.
Copaslip is anti seize grease that reduces friction, not increases, so is not going to stop the post slipping. It'll make it worse.
Cheers all, good to know the top-out clunk is normal and I've found the remnants of a tube of carbon paste so all good!
gravity-slave - MemberCopaslip is anti seize grease that reduces friction, not increases, so is not going to stop the post slipping. It'll make it worse.
And yet we use it in different ways - can lightly torque up bolts and they never shake loose, or we twitch em to breaking point and think we'll never shift em again yet months down the line after adverse working conditions they free off a treat, it's a good binding agent that allows release easily, must be different stuff.
I got the long type so plenty of insertion into the seat tube means its gripped near the top, just a thought.
The clamping point would be exactly the same if you swapped a long for short or vice-versa. All that would change is the amount you have inserted into the frame, the clamp to seal distance wouldn't change.
It's probably exactly what Daveh says......
Get a shock pump and check to make sure it has 250psi in. It'll work fine then.
Legend, I think you misunderstand me, I see riders with the outer tube well out of the seat post and though in theory a tube should not distort more or less , in practice clamping it at a mid point allows more distortion which can limit the inner tubes movement enough to cause problems, while the stabilising effect of the proximity of thelock nut can help enough in marginal situations.