[Closed] SLX 2x10 -> 1x10

You should be able to get away with just removing the granny, if you want to remove the bash too you may need shorter bolts.

I used the normal spacer arrangement.

If you want to fit a dynasis 32T chain ring you need to hacksaw the crank spider to make it fit.

I was thinking of getting a 32t Hope single chainring and e13 narrow bolts and running it without bash, surely that won't cause any problems? If the chainline is fine even without moving around spacers then of course that's even better. Cheers.

Oh and I'll eventually get a Zee RD as that has worked great for me before. It's really only the running-2x10-crank-as-1x10-part that's new to me.

So can I safely assume the chainline will be fine, either with or without removing the spacer? No one has been forced to replace their double crank with a single/triple to make it work?

Thinking of doing the exact same thing on a bfe so keen to hear how you get on!

How you getting on Svalgis? Anyone else done this with a 34T? Any hacksawing required?

I haven't gotten around to it yet I'm afraid, might leave it as is till spring. If modification is required I'd probably just get a new crank - that's hopefully not the case.

Remove all rings and bash, place the larger ring or its replacement in the middle position (where it came from) with shorter bolts or original bolts and spacers. Done.

No need to fiddle with chain line at all, you can use all your gears in your larger (middle) ring at the moment right?

When I did it with a SLX triple crank I had to move one BB spacer from the NDS to get it right (the chain would drop down the gears when backpedalling in one of the biggest cogs otherwise). In this case, the ring is theoretically farther off center, being a dedicated double crank, and as I now only have one BB spacer to move around I just got a little anxious that there might be a possibility it wouldn't work.

I've tried frantically backpedalling in the extreme gears with the current middle ring but it's hard to judge how much it tries to skip with the FD attached and keeping it in place no matter what. That said, it might have been silly of me to believe that the big ring would be so far off center that moving the BB spacer wouldn't be enough if I had any issues.

Also, not sure about the post further up saying that hacksawing might be required to fit dynasis 32t chainring, i.e. what that is or if it might be true for other rings as well.

Would you be interested in a swap for a triple crank?

Drop me an email if so, address in my profile.

No, sorry, I'll give it a go with my double. Just ordered Zee RD, bashguard, jump stop and SS chainring so now I'm committing. 🙂

Note the bulges behind the bolt holes on the dynasis (top picture. There is no clearance on the SLX spider (on mine anyway) for these bulges and some material has to be removed

Dynasis 32T chainring

[img] https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRP0IQWqWd3LfDYXiMvd8UTkkvaarTkmgoUm8dEPErSS13EWQQV [/img]

Regular 34T chainring.

[img] [/img]

I also had a look at a race face 9spd crank and there would be the same issue. I guess this is Shimano making sure 10spd is not backwards compatible with its 9spd cranks.

My 456 came fitted with the same cranks and x3 rings. I removed them all and fitted a Renthal 34t. Shorter bolts was all that was needed and chainline is great. I had to put the single ring on the inside of the spider as it wouldn't fit where the shimano ring was (see pic). No extra adjustment was needed when adding the chainguide

[img] [/img]

allmountainventure: Oh of course, now I see what you mean. Shouldn't be a problem with basically any other chainring then, so I can deal with that. It's a bit of a s*** move though.

Euro: Do you mean your 2x10 crank was fitted with three rings? I suppose there's nothing really stopping it since there's a bash on there from the factory.
That looks ace though, I really have a thing for exposed single chainrings with top and bottom guide - so pretty! I went for a slightly more boring choice myself with a bashguard and jumpstop as inner guide since I don't think I'll need a bottom pulley. Still, pictures like yours make me falter...

Yeah but I foiled their capitalist plan, Mwahahahaha!!

[img] [/img]

These look good! Pleased to hear it's not a major operation on the M665 too. I quite like the look of the on one stainless chainrings. No idea at all about chain guides though.

Euro: Do you mean your 2x10 crank was fitted with three rings?

No, sorry for the confusion. It was a 3x10 sans bash (same thing/part though).

I personally don't see the need for a bash as I haven't bent a chainring in years, and that was doing [i]disasters [/i]on a halfpipe (where you're meant to land the chainring on the coping).

The M665 has a slightly different chainline optimized for 2x10 compared to the earlier Shimano doubles who where simply triples with a bash.

I'm more worried about wrecking a chain at a bad moment. Well, not really worried, but aware enough to rather play it safe. It's no doubt unfounded though.