[Closed] 'slipping' chain when putting power down

Front rings?

I had same .... If you don't change chain regularly enough (I.e. Leaving it until it's really worn) then it wears the cassette and front chain rings too......

So now the shiny new chain with round links doesn't fit correctly into the worn other components.

If you look closely (compare to an unworn sprocket .... You will see the teeth shape will be different ...... More oval......

You will need to change cassette and front ring (s) too.......

You can extende life of the next set by changing chain earlier

Worn cassette?

If knackered freehub?

Put the old chain back on, and forget about it until it's actually giving problems, then change the entire drivetrain.

Are the rollers (in the chain) concave ? if not you can probably keep using it.

Worn cassette. Rings don't wear as fast and have to be incredibly worn before they cause jumping.

Either change cassette or put old chain back on. Next time change chain earlier, or decimate entire drivetrain before replacing all of it.

Or chain is now too long? If its slipping in every single gear, front and back.

The cassette is just really shagged. Once all of those are worn the chainrings are an irrelevance. The chain wouldn't be too long in more than a couple of gears.

I had exactly this. Someone on here helpfully pointed out that the quick links (mine was connex) are directional. Turned the quick link round - problem solved.

Possible your Sram one is the same ?

Nope, PowerLinks aren't directional. How is that even possible?

Thanks for the replies,

I have foolishly thrown the old chain 🙁

I have ordered a new cassette and inner and middle ring, foooork me the outer rings are expensive! I hardly use that one so will try this solution first.

Its not the free hub slipping because I tried to make it slip with the chain whip and couldn't.

Fingers crossed it sorts it.
Cheers
Col

Drivetrain generally wears out in this order Chain>Cassette>Chainrings.
Its almost certain that your cassette has worn with your old chain - have a look at the teeth, do they have flat tops or are they all pointy?
Also check your rear mech jockey wheels!

I keep hearing people say jockey wheels wear and affect performance - but never experienced that. I've changed jockey wheels because the teeth wore down to tiny pointy triangles but it never caused any skipping etc. All they do is provide chain tension. Genuine question - has anyone had worn jockey wheels cause skipping?

For your problem, I'd put money on cassette 🙂

Only time jockey wheels have been a problem for me is when they have seized. Things get really rough then. A good clean and lube sorts them though

I'd go chainrings, are the teeth really sharp? If so then its worn.
I've had cassettes wearing out, but not before a chainring, especially if your prone to using one particular one all the time. Its always my middle one that goes......

I'd go chainrings, are the teeth really sharp? If so then its worn.
I've had cassettes wearing out, but not before a chainring, especially if your prone to using one particular one all the time. Its always my middle one that goes......

Worn rings generally suck though, not slip. Worn cassettes slip. It's also in all gears, pretty unlikely all rings have got that bad without the OP noticing, quite possible that's happened on the cassette though.

+1 for cassette. If you've bought new cassette & rings I would just fit the cassette and see how it goes. If it still slips then put the new rings on. But, I don't think you'll need them.

euain - Member
I keep hearing people say jockey wheels wear and affect performance - but never experienced that. I've changed jockey wheels because the teeth wore down to tiny pointy triangles but it never caused any skipping etc. All they do is provide chain tension. Genuine question - has anyone had worn jockey wheels cause skipping?

Never had skipping as a result of knackered jockey wheels, but shifting definitely improved replacing worn wheels with new ones. Not sure whether this is down to restoring the correct tooth profile or reducing the amount of lateral slop that had built up in the worn ones.

Replace whole bike except the new chain

You will need to change cassette and front ring (s) too.......

sorry, but I really think you need to check the indexing before you thrw away money on new bits.

get on park tools website, reset both mechs, see if it's any better. it might not be, but it's worth a go.

Right guys,
Many times people ask a question , get lots of replies then never come back to let you know the outcome.

Well firstly I Shortened the chain to it's correct length which made no difference.
Secondly I fitted the rear cassette......That sorted the job out, its perfect now.
Thanks for your help and advice again.
Colin

Well I'm hoping it's the jockey wheels that were causing my chain to skip cause the chain cassette ad chain wheel were new and the jockey wheels were worn with one tooth snapped. Waiting for the new ones to turn up.

Njee, it never fails to amaze me how many people state things as fact when they haven't bothered to checkTheir assumptions.

I can assure you that Connex power links are directional. Take a look at the destructions, then feel free to come back an admit you're fallibility.

pymwymis - Member

Njee, it never fails to amaze me how many people state things as fact when they haven't bothered to checkTheir assumptions.

I can assure you that Connex power links are directional. Take a look at the destructions, then feel free to come back an admit you're fallibility.

Connex links are directional but the OP has a Sram chain and , as stated by Njee powerlinks , which are a Sram product and not Connex are not directional .