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My setup is KMC Z1 3/32 chain, Surly stainless 3/32 34T ring, On One Groove Armada 20T sprocket, Inbred vert dropout frame, Blackspire Stinger tensioner fixed to the frame's ISCG mounts.
When I fitted the new chain, I added a half link to get it tensioned enough for the Blackspire. Now the chain has stretched from use, I can't get enough tension with the Blackspire. I tried removing the half link and the chain is millimetres too short to join.
I was thinking of changing the sprocket size. Or I could run the chain under the Blackspire guide wheel but it looks ugly and drops it too low. Or, sack the Blackspire off and get a rear tensioner.
Any thoughts gratefully received!
Use a different tensioner
If your bike has a threaded BB save up and buy a Trickstuff Exzentriker. I persevered for years with different tensioners until I got it, wish I'd done it sooner.
Ask on here to borrow the installation tool from someone nearby, you only need it once.
Does the Exzentriker creak much? Bearings easy to source?
Paul's Melvin or Rohloff tensioner.
Run both on 2 bikes, both are ace and hassle free.
Drop to a 19t on the rear?
Mine doesn't creak, and (now that I've put it in the right way round) it does not move unless you want it to.
Runs on two 6805 bearings. 37mm OD - 25mm ID - 7mm Width, easy enough, Enduro do them too.
I'm in Notts if you want to take a socially distanced look/ use the tool.
I spent over 2 years singlespeeding a Ti456 exclusively.
Whilst some of my chums farted about constantly with sliding drop outs, matching cog sizes to find the magic ratio or repeatedly disassembled and regreased creaking elliptic BBs or readjusted unsprung chain tensioners every ride, I just bashed on a Rohloff chain tensioner and rode. Because its sprung like a micro derailleur, it constantly corrected for wear and I was able to just focus on the ride.
Because its sprung like a micro derailleur, it constantly corrected for wear and I was able to just focus on the ride.
I figure this is the simplest option. Simple, after all, is what singlespeeding is about. I've ordered an One One Doofer. Anyone want a Blackspire Stinger in good nick?
An old rear mexh ws the best tensioner I ever used.
I've fitted my new On One Doofer and it works a treat. I'm going to say something, which might cause great controversy here. In my simple partisan head (I've just forked out £15 on this Doofer after all), is it not the case that a mech hangered frame with a spring-loaded tensioner is the best option over a dedicated horizontal drop-out or EBB singlespeed frame? With both the latter, chain tension cannot be spring-loaded. Or am I missing something / about to be thrown off STWF?
I have never at any time had an issue with my EBB.
Singlespeed with tensioners is ugly.
No other fact are relevant.
Ugly is the main issue. But also can be hard to remove the wheel with the tensioner in the way; and can get chain slap if the tensioner had to take up a lot of slack or the chain runs close to the chain stay.
Rohloff tensioner.
Cheaper option than this is an Alfine tensioner. But this looks even worse than a doofer-style single-wheeled tensioner.
I've just looked at a photo of the Blackspire tensioner, and I'm guessing there's a bolt that holds the roller to the base plate? You could try drilling a new hole for the bolt, closer to the end of the base plate.
As said chain slap and ugly were my motives, but mainly the bloody chain slap.
Now all I can hear is my asthmatic wheezing 🙂
A tensioner with a strong spring and a nice jockey wheel will be fine I'm sure.
Ugly is the main issue. But also can be hard to remove the wheel with the tensioner in the way; and can get chain slap if the tensioner had to take up a lot of slack or the chain runs close to the chain stay.
Cheaper option than (the Rohloff) is an Alfine tensioner. But this looks even worse than a doofer-style single-wheeled tensioner.
I don't think the Rohloff/Pauls look ugly. I prefer them to the single jockey wheel type.
A friend tried using an Alfine one, but he realised you can't change the chainline like you can on the Rohloff and Pauls ones.
I'm using one on my Stooge, even though it has an EBB, so I can run it as a dingle-speed.
Oh, and NO chainslap, as the spring on these is bloody strong!

I have never at any time had an issue with my EBB.
I seem to have bad luck with single-speeding.
-Sliding dropouts? They slid alright. Especially while braking. Then the frame failed! So I try (used) EBB.
-EBB shell arrives deformed and EBB pocked like it’s been centre-punched.
Have tried a chain tensioner before but not for long. Maybe that’s the way to go.
Unfortunately I better had currently ride single-speed MTB owing to recurring injury (athletic pubalgia) which totally precludes seated climbing because it always worsens the injury/sets me back.
So I found that riding suitably ratio’d single-speed effectively removes the seated-climbing temptation/option. Hurray for single-speeding.
And yet, owing to said SS failures/frustrations I haven’t ridden any sort of MTB for nearly a year now and it’s driving me nuts. Of course, like all of us, I could instead just pick a gear and ride in that gear. But it’s like ‘don’t chew the fruit pastille, suck it all the way’ 😋 Much more easily accomplished without teeth.
I have one affordable SS MTB option left available to me, and that is to single-speed my currently geared, rigid, 29+ capable (if exchange wheels) track-ended frame using chain-tugs. It has QR on Hope Pro 2.
Would anyone approve that method? In fact why wouldn’t track ends + tugs be the best (and lightest) method? I suppose my QR setup is the weak link?
Would anyone approve that method? In fact why wouldn’t track ends + tugs be the best (and lightest) method? I suppose my QR setup is the weak link?
I also have a Surly Krampus with track ends, and normal rear hub + chain tug works fine.
For extra security I upgraded my Hope rear hub to the 10mm bolt axle, but you could use a bolt 'QR' like this as well.

you could use a bolt ‘QR’ like this as well.
Tried that and snapped the bolt over-tightening it on a very cold day this week. Yes, user error, but I challenge anyone not to give it a bit too much torque, given the whole point of switching to a bolt-through is to have a tighter clamped wheel.
A friend tried using an Alfine one, but he realised you can’t change the chainline like you can on the Rohloff and Pauls ones.
The Alfine is the same as the Rohloff for chainline - comes with washers and you use the number required.
I think you can only adjust it by 3mm (it comes with 2 washers afaik), whereas the Rohloff and Pauls you can adjust by about 10-15mm.
The Alfine will work, but only if you don't need much adjustment.
Problem Solvers also do a double jockey wheel tensioner - IME it works really well, really solid
Another vote for the Exzentriker route - I used one (on a ‘95 Explosif frame) for several years and never had any issues with it. Okay, it’s a bit faffy to adjust but you don’t need to do that every day, especially if you use a decent chain (KMC Z610HX, which is the only chain that I’ve ever used on a singlespeed).
Then I moved to EBB frames (Singular Hummingbirds, both steel and Ti) and they’ve been pretty much faultless too....
Most of the issues (with set screw EBBs at least) is down to people overtightening them and distorting the shell or damaging the eccentric insert.
Plus using pointed setscrews rather than the correct cup type.