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Is it all the same? Everbuild P19 for plumbers is about £2.50, WD40 Silicone spray is £7.99
I use if on forks/shocks and to wipe car door seals to prevent them icing up.
I like the juice lubes one for irrational reasons (always used it, leaves pleasant smell in room) but so far as I understand there is plenty of scope for saving money. I believe the cheapest option is aimed at UPVC window installation...
I buy these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362492257126 - 6 big cans for £18 shipped. They used to sell this exact stuff in Boyes in Skipton (and who doesn't enjoy rummaging around inside Boyes in their lunch hour? 😉 ) and it has always served me well, so I just buy it in bulk now.
I get the stuff from Toolstation.
Ain't noticed no difference to the Wd40 stuff to be honest. Use it on my slidy up and downy bits.
Toolstation is where I get mine from. I assume you guys know never to use it on metal to metal sliding parts?
Silicon penetrates to metal surface and Screws up the part as it causes pick up and cant be removed. Ace for waterproofing or door seals etc.
"Pick up", what does that mean mate? Genuine question, cheers!
I suspect he means it picks up and traps dirt and debris. Using a "dry" formulation can prevent that to some degree.
Silicone is fine on metal and enough can be removed with various solvents that it won't be an issue unless you want to paint the metal later. Even then, you can usually get it clean with a mixture of solvents and mechanical cleaning. It is a royal pita though.
According to the man from juice lubes the original fork juice was developed from upvc glazing spray.
It's used in woodworking too, to lubricate metal.machine beds etc to make your plank-moveage super slippy
I just use a candle though.
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“Pick up”, what does that mean mate? Genuine question, cheers!
“PIcking up” or galling between sliding metal surfaces (eg guide pillars and bushings) or between bolts and nuts.
You can for the most part use PTFE (Teflon spray) for the same/similar purposes.
Typical I can't find any details about what I was reading. But silicone was developed mainly for rubber and plastic. If you use it on metal to metal sliding parts ie rifle bolt the surfaces start to deteriorate and eventually start to seize up.
Because the silicone has penetrated the metal its scrap, even a lathe cannot repair the damage.
As I said that's what I read somwhere but cant find the info so I will probably get flamed and roasted on here for duff info.
I think you're right, and if anyone has tried to paint over silicone contaminated surfaces (like car bodywork that's been in contact with silicone) it's rotten stuff to try and get rid of once it's been on some metal.
Typical I can’t find any details about what I was reading.
If you do find it please post it I'd be interested in reading it. Can you recall, did the source suggest that it actually deteriorated the metal, or just attracted contaminants?
I don't think it causes pickup or galling but if mistakenly used as a high pressure lubricant or anti seize it doesn't work there for its equivalent to not having lubricant.
I believe applying paint to a contaminated surface is problematic because the solvents are not able to dissolve it and the silicone prevents the paint from wetting the surface. Eg it's pretty good at waterproofing stuff.
I wondered, because bear mentioned rifle bolts, if it was a temperature related issue.
There are solvents that will shift it, although not 100%. Usually enough that by the time you've done your sanding paint will stick. Heptanes maybe? Can't remember.
Well done eddiebaby that explains the fact that Silicone is a crap lubricant on metal.
Silicone is a crap lubricant on metal.
It is an interesting paper, but it doesn't say anything like that. It is talking about ferrous metal under high pressure. Based on the silicones available 70 years ago. Silicone isn't good for that. In fact most liquids aren't which partly explains why bearing and gears under large loads use grease.
It doesn't say anything about the silicone damaging the metal though.
There's nothing Ferrous on my dropper, shocks or forks. And lathes don't repair anything, they remove material, so wouldn't ever be used on such components anyway.
So, been using juice lubes for 3 or 4 years, and none of my moving bits have died, and I'm not planning on painting them.
+1 for the awesome smell, and a can lasts that long, it's pretty cheap anyway!. 🙂
I always wonder if these lubes are a bit homeopathic. Would be good to see a dyno test of before and after juice lube or whatever. Do places like TFTuned recommend the use of silicone sprays?
Interesting.
I cant read the full pdf if anyone could share.
However you are not using silicone to lubricate forks. You are simply using it to lube the seals. The bushings (probably peek or similar) are running on the hard anodized stanchions and are lubricated by the oil in the fork lowers.
I can however understand that silicone could prevent some oils / greases from forming a film on the fork uppers.