You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Unless they've all snapped 😆 😯
Mid-build on my 2011 Team model 8)
Will do tonight- thanks to Kinger from here for supplying a RP23 Kashima shock. Although....the forks will be 05 Z1 FR's.
Do you have to route the rear gear cable through the swingarm? I was going to run into externally/zipped.
Weeksy - what chain guide do you use?
Hora - don't forget to cover the new frame, once you've attached all your old nackered components to it, in duct tape, and bits of old inner tube, then take it out and cover it in shite, before you take the photos
Hmmmmm
Off the Top of my head it was an old E13 SRS i bought from Real Cycles in Ireland who were then the main suppliers for Commencal in the UK. I think it was that anyway... I liked it, although apparently it was a bit of a bugger for my LBS to setup as i was less skilled mechanically with bikes back then, this was about 2011 i think, it was a replacement for my 2 snapped Super4's.
Hora - don't forget to cover the new frame, once you've attached all your old nackered components to it, in duct tape, and bits of old inner tube, then take it out and cover it in shite, before you take the for sale photos
FIFY 😉
Err binners- you should apply the same methodology before you go on a night out.
Heres what I did: http://www.flickr.com/photos/30625376@N06/?deleted=8546203432
that frames mine now so stop showing pics of it 😉
It was picked up today- the Hope race is taped to the box securely (as I forgot to take it off the forks until the box had been taped up! The rest of the headset is taped inside. Rag it to an inch of its life- I'm going to keep a lookout for a 16" c456 as it rode very well 🙂
I've ziptied the full length outer to the swing arm. Hmmm will sort out new outer/inner thread through post weekend
Poke it through properly Hora!
Use a bit of cotton or string and a vacuum cleaner to suck it through, then tape the INNER to the thread and pull through....
DrP
2011 Team.[img][url= http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7130/7623755576_2bf0458f29.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7130/7623755576_2bf0458f29.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/66541880@N03/7623755576/ ]IMG_1899[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/66541880@N03/ ]passtherizla[/url], on Flickr[/img]
Use a bit of cotton or string and a vacuum cleaner to suck it through, then tape the INNER to the thread and pull through....
A better/quicker method is to use a Clarks gear cable- I did this on a Orange five. Took 10seconds- and you can still thread the outer over it
laughing quite loudly in the office at binners post !!!
My trusty steed. I love it 🙂 Great bike everywhere including a trip to the Alps. I have test ridden a few new bikes since owning it and nothing is any better for the riding I do. I'll be keeping until it breaks in half which given their reputation and another trip to the Alps this summer will probably be sooner rather than later! 😉
In CYB with it's identical twin:
Those meta AMs are one of the nicest looking bikes out there
Nice that Hora. Not seen that colourway before
I think I went OT on the innertube-wrap- the black Commencal decal on the swingarm is quite nice.
fazanders - is that what I can get if I break my Meta 5? 
fazanders - is that what I can get if I break my Meta 5?
Almost makes it worth breaking the Meta 5 😆
Not sure how to link directly from PB....
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/8493518/
Started life as a 2009 Meta 553, now the only thing that remains is the seat post! Frame replaced under warranty 2 years ago, and everything else has been changed/upgraded. Love how it rides, creaks, and generally handles much more than I can.
I think you should get a MEta AM instead 😀
Will it be ready for Saturdays Jacobs run??
It'll be cobbled-together worsecase.
Double post
*prints spacehopper's off and disapears off to christen the pic*
Hora - yours is a large frame... The small and med have the shock mount next to the top tube, the large/XL have it separate, like yours...
DrP
QC guy needs a slap. I also had to file the driveside dropout
an oldie but goodie in enduro mode
love the way my 07 meta 5.52 rides any terrain
sorry only a link
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/9259792/
If you're finding climbs a challenge, something's wrong....
Set up properly, the meta is a stonker of a climber!!
DrP
Forgive my slight thread hijack Mr Hora,
thinking of buying a full sus bike after the summer and these seem to be in my secondhand budget.
looks like a lot of people here have had problems with frames snapping/breaking, is this a common fault? If so is it only a certain model or year affected?
Yes its a common fault, although from memory, mostly 08/09 bikes.
This is the replacement for the one my wife snapped 🙂
[URL= http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/chris.archer/DSC02867_zpsf5f302b5.jp g" target="_blank">
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/chris.archer/DSC02867_zpsf5f302b5.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
anyone want a '07 medium frame in white? 120quid collected from Bognor.
dccbysea@gmail.com
Very few issues from 2010 bikes onwards breaking. Great bikes. Loved mine and now moved on to the Meta AM
My Meta 55
[url= http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4146/5027532880_57924abcf8.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4146/5027532880_57924abcf8.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
Has changed quite a bit since then with new Revelations to replace the worn out Floats and double / bash / stinger rather than the 3 up front.
Jeff
Forgive my slight thread hijack Mr Hora,
thinking of buying a full sus bike after the summer and these seem to be in my secondhand budget.
looks like a lot of people here have had problems with frames snapping/breaking, is this a common fault? If so is it only a certain model or year affected?
From what I can gather the earlier ones (which were great) are only starting to snap/crack now as they are getting abit- I think it was the late 08/09 era that had the weaknesses?
11+ are mint. Try Commencals website - clearance section. You can pick up a 200x50 shock ANYWHERE secondhand.
What sort of pressures are people running in the rear shock? The correct amount of sag is 10mm or so isn't it?
I weigh about 11.5st/73kg and the shock is a Fox RP2
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8279/8703274879_aedb64d5ae_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8279/8703274879_aedb64d5ae_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/27972962@N08/8703274879/ ]2012-08-01-142[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/27972962@N08/ ]danmorton_uk[/url], on Flickr
P.S it used to be an Orange Crush...
Goodpoint, I've got a Kashima RP23 on mine - I went for my weight in PSI i.e. 210lb = 210psi. I've not actually messed with it yet.
Run mine with 165psi and I am 13.3st/85Kgs. 30% sag - 17mm for plushness and it flies downhill. I don't find that it bottom outs harshly or goes through the travel too quickly either. Just a nice controlled smooth use of all available travel. Any more pressure than that and it won't use all the travel even off bigger drops.
Climbing is fine, I have an Fox Float RP2 and flick the Propedal on to climb and it cuts out most of the bob.
Hora - That would match with what I currently set, about 160psi for 160 lbs
...but I did run it at lower psi previously with more sag and it never bottomed out
The guide on the commie website is useful (technical spec sheet).
Basically the eye2eye distance on the shock should be:
190mm 'optimal'
187mm 'maxi/DH'.
The best way of doing this measure this with the shock out, bike in stand. What I did was then make a mark (with dremmel) on the black 'pushrod' type bit connecting the swingarm to the pivots, and tape a mark on the seat tube, so that the two line up at perfect sag.
Then you can simply add/remove air with you sat on it, and never have to measure as you've a neat visual guide...
DrP
heres my commie, bought of the commie secondhand bike section.
[img][url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8408/8704411912_5a5cf8ef64.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8408/8704411912_5a5cf8ef64.jp g"/> [/img][/url] [url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/95432265@N04/8704411912/ ]DSC_0073[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/95432265@N04/ ]gingeyoldhams[/url], on Flickr[/img]
DrP good tip on the sag indicator
Another picture you say? Go on then 😉
[URL= http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v143/1993t35/2013-04-21081706_zps4b8e989b.jp g" target="_blank">
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v143/1993t35/2013-04-21081706_zps4b8e989b.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
Hora have you ridden yours yet? What do you think to it?
I like it, alot. Its very poppy- off things but I think the (20inch) seat tube could have been 19" max.
I like mine a lot as well. I keep flirting with other new bikes but I am yet to find a bike that rides as well for my sort of riding.
I am quite tall so the long seat tube on my XL suits me. I could get away with it being an inch shorter though I don't find a problem with stand over height anyway.
Stand over isnt an issue (I'm 6ft2) its just preference/saddle out of the way/how I hover etc.
Cool. Personal preference then 🙂
I have the Commencal Techbook for 2010. It's got all the dimensions, bearing sizes, part numbers etc. so it's quite useful. The Meta 55 is on page 57 onwards.
Clicky Link:
[url= https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9_xyIfo_XdAbmtod01mMzQtblk/edit?usp=sharing ]Commencal Tech Book[/url]
Thanks for the info!
Probably be looking at 2010 onwards then, I'll check out the commencal Web site aswell.
Cheers!
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8136/8703591365_b93333a074_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8136/8703591365_b93333a074_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/27972962@N08/8703591365/ ]2012-12-13-042[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/27972962@N08/ ]danmorton_uk[/url], on Flickr
Another pic of mine, mudguarded up, with double and bash and with a stupidly long stem (for bar width)... reverted back to 70mm after one ride
That fork looks like a Fox 32 to me dmorts.
I run a 70mm Race Face Evolve 6 degree rise stem on mine with a 780mm width/25mm rise Superstar Descent bar which is perfect for me. When I got the bike it had a 90mm stem and a much narrower bar, changing to a shorter stem and wider bar improved the ride loads.
dmorts, It's a 2009 Vanilla RL fork, 140mm travel. I'm running a 60mm RaceFace respond stem and 700mm 1" riser bars.
I miss mine. 🙁
Has anyone tried a shock with a 190mm i2i on the 55?
This thread upsets me: my meta 5 was stolen and it's the best bike I've ever ridden
2008 Meta 55 - Stolen
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8551/8704541925_55be765b8d.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8551/8704541925_55be765b8d.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
2009 Meta 55 - Cracked
[url= http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7161/6396204793_6b6ba519af.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7161/6396204793_6b6ba519af.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
2011 Warranty replacement Meta 55
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8406/8704549251_86bc4a4bea.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8406/8704549251_86bc4a4bea.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
At Antur
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8138/8704610149_d2294c7dd8.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8138/8704610149_d2294c7dd8.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8705723442_227231eb3b.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8705723442_227231eb3b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
I need headset help. Using a Stolen 44 headset but the top bearing sits higher than the top of the frame top. This means theres a gap allowing in dirt. Ive got the wrong headset shirley?
One of [url= http://www.winstanleysbmx.com/product/14203/Stolen_Insider_Headset ]these[/url] worked fine on an '09 (45,45).
Yep, the Insider 45/45 headsets work OK. Never heard of a Stolen 44?
Quick flick through CRC also reveals [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40812 ]these[/url]. Never tried one though.
I have had a few headsets in mine and they all have a had that tiny gap above the upper bearing. It's only small, probably less than 1mm. I thought it was a problem at first but it's never caused an issue. Having thought about it the gap is there so that there's clearance to preload the bearings. If the gap wasn't there you would be able to take the play up in the headset as the top cap would sit on the frame. It's a peculiarity of the Campag hiddenset so don't worry about it 🙂
Ok looks like I need a headset protector
That should say "If the gap wasn't there you [b][i]wouldn't[/i][/b] be able to take the play up in the headset as the top cap would sit on the frame" not would! 😳
Honestly hora I would not worry about it. I am a bit bike OCD and everything has to be mechanically perfect and I was quite concerned about that gap too but it hasn't caused a problem through two winters, countless trips to Wales, time in the Alps and a million washes. I don't bother buying a new headset any more, when the bearings get a bit rough I just put some new ones in. You can get them for a tenner:
[url= http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140957450324 ]Headset bearings clicky[/url]
The rest of the headset never wears out it's only the bearings so it seems pointless changing the whole thing.
Mine enjoying the sun yesterday morning 
[URL= http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v143/1993t35/2013-05-06090526_zpsd7982ca1.jp g" target="_blank">
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v143/1993t35/2013-05-06090526_zpsd7982ca1.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]























