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Preferably in 120mm fork with reverb dropper post? I just want to know changes you have made. Cheers
22lbs for an fs bike with a reverb and 120mm is a tough/eye wateringly expensive ask!
Moon on a stick surely?
That would take some going...
Just built a 29er Anthem in small for the Mrs with V.Light kit on it, XX1, carbon rims etc and it came in at 10kg on the nose. Think trying to get a dropper in the weight confines would be next to impossible without spending a lot of money of silly light fragile parts.
Id hate to think how much a 10KG full sus with dropper would cost to put together.
My rigid, HT, SS only just gets under 10Kg.
9.6Kg, 21.1lbs
Titanium everywhere, stans rims, XTR hubs, Middleburn cranks.
[img] https://keep.google.com/u/0/media/1TdqZC22cRqIBWT0ixR6TUAKvEclX?sz=600 [/img]
There was a Yeti asr5c on eBay recently and although I don't think it had a dropper, the seller claimed it weighed 20.5lbs!
Sounded incredibly light to me.
Kinda wishful thinking that i am asking then.. I don't know how to edit title, so please can you show me your 22lbs 120mm fork FS bike without a reverb post?
I'm looking for an idea of what drivetrain you have used. That drops significant amount of weight..
My Turner Czar weighs 22.8lbs. With 100 mm Reverbs and no dropper post.
Apart from putting SIDs on it (which I wont) I seriously doubt I could get it any lighter. I have chucked the proverbial money bucket at it!
Drive chain is Next SL with 32T workscomponents ring,XTR clutch mech, Saint lever,XX 10-36 cassette
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/articles.php?category=fsbikes
The fact that there's so few on Weight Weenies tells you how hard it is to do!
Xx1 or any 1x will drop weight, XX if you need 2x. You've got to go everything light to hit a really low weight though - rotors, tyres, bolts, cable housings etc. From experience unless you're willing to regularly replace and/or compromise rideability, some things aren't worth lightening.
Most would have xx1 at a guess, but again, I guess, if you had 1x10 xtr/XX, with a new raceface next carbon crank, and what ever the lightest spider/NW chainring setup was, you'd be saving a fair chunk of weight off a standard groupset. Not to mention your wallet
I think njee20 had a trek 9.9 that was hovering around 20lbs, no ability to attach a dropper though as it had an seat mast rather than a traditional setup.
Looking at the WW list, all those are at least 10 years old too, back when folk valued lightweight over being able to ride the thing on anything more than cobbled streets at anything more than walking pace....
A few members have Xc race bikes which would be under that weight. I've a cannondale scalpel with sram xx 1x10 gearing and mavic SLRs. It doesn't have a dropper but that would only at 200 ish grams over the current post.
The wheels aren't the lightest so more weight could be dropped.
Sometimes chasing weight loss is a waste of time. You can lose huge chunks of weight by swapping tires, but ultimately you'll have a bike that lighter but much much slower due to lack of grip in the corners etc.
Whay do you want to build this bike? What's it going to be used for ?
My Top Fuel was 20lbs, but only 100mm and no Reverb. You could do it, but I'd question whether the spec would be appropriate for a the sort of riding which necessitated a Reverb.
I'd question whether the spec would be appropriate for a the sort of riding which necessitated a Reverb.
I think this hits the nail on the head - are you going for a weight weenie sub 10kg full sus, or something that you can thash without fear of breaking?
I'm surprised this is so hard.
Afaik Canyon are reasonably accurate with their weights and they list this as 10.7kg (23.5lb) with a dropper.
Going tubeless and 1x would surely get you close.
[url= http://www.canyon.com/_en/mountainbikes/bike.html?b=3188#tab-reiter2 ]
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http://www.canyon.com/_en/mountainbikes/bike.html?b=3188#tab-reiter2
No pedals. So you're trying to lose 2 and a bit pounds. If it's an accurate weight, then XX1, Next SL cranks and some lighter wheels would probably do it. Not exactly cheap though.
Double post.
Not exactly cheap though.
No, and if you were to try and DIY it instead of buying from Canyon, it would probably be even more.
I seriously doubt that Canyon weight too.
from the elite racer boys I know, Steve James of Hargroves Cycles has an S-Works Epic set up pretty damn light with no visible porky components and it runs at 22lb (10kg) dead. Paul Oldham from Hope Factory Racing has a Scott Spark 900 SL with full factory works package, everything drilled out, made out of alu where possible and again is 22lbs dead.
Both of these guys weigh less than 70kg and ride super smoothly at World Cup level. I'd not want to ride a sub 22lb bike for long.
Both 29ers of course, going back to 26" does get you a bit more back. The World Cup S-Works Epic 29 is 19.62lbs without pedals, but again, not a trail bike by any stretch of imagination.
If i can get my small asr5c to that canyon claimed weight (pictured above) would be ace.
Iirc the cube stereo hpc is around 22lbs as well right?
This is 10.3kg - Scott Spark 20, Hopes on Crests, X0 drivetrain, XTR cranks.
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Ive now changed bars to wide flat ones, which has bumped it up to 10.4kg.
You got the wrong bars then 😉
Mt Zoom 710mm flat bars are 117g.
It would made an interesting test - how light is too light for mountain biking. Proper mountain biking that is. Where you thrash round say a red route trail center and perhaps race your mates down some sketch as f*** cheeky trails.
I too was surprised at the age of all those light FS bikes on WW. All way old. So frames and components have not got lighter. But thats not surprising.
We have not invented another new, ligher, stronger material plus people are expecting to do more with their bikes now.
It would made an interesting test - how light is too light for mountain biking. Proper mountain biking that is. Where you thrash round say a red route trail center and perhaps race your mates down some sketch as f*** cheeky trails.
Seen a WC XC course? A hell of a lot tougher than any trail centre red I've seen.
Seen a WC XC rider? A hell of a lot lighter than any trail centre rider I've seen.
Edit: they're usually a lot more skilful than they're given credit for too
Seen a WC XC rider? A hell of a lot lighter than any trail centre rider I've seen.
I dunno, I've raced quite a few World Cups.....
I've got a SC Blur XC which weighs about. 22.5lb. It's mostly XTR, tubeless Stans, SID World Cup, & Ritchey WCS/Controltech finishing. I always think that the bikes going to bend & go snap on me....it never has, it took the 7 day BC Bike Race in its stride..
To get it any lighter though....hmm....would be an exercise in burning £50 notes I think...
It's a far more fun bike than it has any right to be..!
Seen a WC XC rider? A hell of a lot lighter than any trail centre rider I've seen.Edit: they're usually a lot more skilful than they're given credit for too
You've clearly never met Njee. The guy's very hard to keep up with on a bike I'd probably break by thinking about swinging a leg over let alone actually sitting on it.
Without doubt, the quickest rider I've met.
The problem is that you rapidly get into the law of diminishing returns.
Knocking a kilo off a 15kg bike easy, but knocking just 300g off a 10.3kg bike, a LOT harder!
Basically you get to the point where you can't make any particular component any lighter, what ever the cost, so at that point you need to start removing parts completely.
So, a single speed, 1by short travel FS that's under 10kg is do-able, but what would be the point? Might as well go rigid as well at that point......
Ive often wondered if you can notice say 1 lb in the real world. If my bike weighs 35 lbs and I weigh 85kg and probably carry a 3kg camel back - that costly saving of 1 lb is unlikely to be noticed.
That 1 lb is less than 1/2 a % of the whole weight.
I grind slowly up hill anyway, so even less chance of noticing it.
Never mind 300g !
I went from a 35 pound bike to a 25 pound bike, so still only 5% of total weight. Believe me. You notice. Like going from a quick car, to a hypercar. You notice the weight lost from a bike (or camelbak) much more as it's dead weight because It doesn't actively contribute to propelling you. That's why electric bikes font feel so bad when they are powering along.
My merida 96 is 9.85 with xtr 1x10 with 40t, hope race brakes, stans podiums, ordinary sids, kcnc post and stem, mt zoom flat bars and rons 2.25 front 2.1 rear. Nothing particularly WW (Gobi saddle, xtr pedals, not very light tyres, no weird cables etc). Light = good for climbing but can be nervous elsewhere though that might be more to do with geo.
Seen a WC XC course? A hell of a lot tougher than any trail centre red I've seen.
Trimix was in the one of the first group of punters allowed to ride the unsanitised london olympic XC course. Most of the group were on 150-160mm full sussers and couldnt clean all the techy rocky sections. He's not questioning the ability of WC riders but the average Joe who buys bikes and posts on STW...
I've played with builds previously that took bike weights to below 22lb for hardtail and 24lb for FS. Admittedly this was some time ago but I felt there was quite a bit of compromise then in ride-ability, confidence and the fun-factor too. The bikes felt less planted and more skittish, although climbing performance felt significantly better. I'm not sure I would build up a hardtail at sub 24lbs or a FS at sub 26lb for that reason.
My merida ninety six weighs 21.5lbs. Sram 1 x 10. Would struggle to get it much lighter and still feel confident it wouldnt break. Its very skittish downhill. Had a Mojo Sl that weighed 23.5lb and that was too light. Put some weight back on it and it transformed the ride.I guess what i'm saying is that unless you have the skill ( of which I dont have enough) keeping an uberlight bike underneath you is hard work.
He's not questioning the ability of WC riders but the average Joe who buys bikes and posts on STW...
But then I don't understand his post, it was about the bikes not the riders? A 20lb FS bike will be absolutely fine being thrashed around a trail centre red, the suggestion was that they're only good for stuff that's not 'proper mountain biking'.
Thrashing around a trail centre isn't proper mountain biking anyway..... 😉
A 22lb bike would be useless to me as in 6ft and 16 stone how heavy is the op?
Buy the 15" version of your frame that'll save weight
A 22lb bike would be useless to me as in 6ft and 16 stone how heavy is the op?
It wouldn't, a light bike is a light bike, it will still climb better for you than a 15kg bike.
My stock Scalpel 29er 1 is 23lb. A mates older Scalpel 26er was 22lb without a dropper. He now has a dropper on his, but I bet with 1x he could get there.
Great bikes as well.
When I was racing about 8 years ago or so, my 23lb cannondale had a weight limit of 95kgs
Ok, my 19lb Superfly hardtail doesn't have a weight limit. This isn't 8 years ago.
Technically the 115g seatpost does, but change that and it's fatty compatible! 😉
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/nove-mesto-xc-world-cup-day-one-in-the-pits.html
maybe some ideas here?
Going 26" will also reduce weight...650b and 29" are going to add weight so you need to decide if overall weight is more important than the perceived gains of larger wheels...
The lightest my 20" 456Ti got to was 22lbs (c/w pedals), it's now at 26.5lbs with a dropper.
Why has it gained so much weight? Because I've gone from living in the Home Counties to the Scottish Borders and have pretty much destroyed all the lighter components over the last 6 years...
The only things left on it from build day are the XTR front mech and the steerer spacers.
As others have said, it can be too light, although having an unlimited budget can help - managed to break 3 XTR rear mechs one year 😯
The weight plays heavier on the mind than the legs ..Ive often wondered if you can notice say 1 lb in the real world.
re WC courses/bikes/riders etc, remember that those guys have full pit support and get free stuff, bikes with a yearly trip to the local shop for a service plus intermittent home faffing will have reduced lifespans and high bills )
Zoo200 - 8 years ago a lot of parts had weight limits or should have or were generally badly designed in an aim to save weight.
All of the Cannondales I have owned haven't had a weight limit and have had a lifetime warranty on the frame. I am guessing to gain customer confidence after they had issues on older frames. Anyway, there are plenty of stock full sus frames where 22lb can be reached without being silly.
From memory this very useable 140mm travel build came at 23.5lb and not much change from £6k so for a 22lb build you'd be looking at a xc race type machine.
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magic scales with the above
wheels are heavy
LUST tyres are heavy
XTR Trail Pedals are heavy
Triple with Mech/Shifter is heavy
Dropper is heavy
Saddle looks like a standard Gobi - thats heavy
Was just thinking that....
Was fitted with carbon gobi, easton haven stem and nobby nic/r-ralph tyres (fitted when they came in to stock) and full ti bolt kit, weighed on the shop scales as below, no reason to really doubt them, wheels weigh 1420g - is that heavy?.
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What is it they say "strong, light, cheap....pick two"
Re the Ibis above. You'll struggle to find a wheel with a better weight to strength ratio than crossmax slr's. 1420 grammes is a light wheel set.
You'll struggle to find a wheel with a better weight to strength ratio than crossmax slr's.
Not so sure about that, most carbon wheels are stronger and lighter, dare I say it, cheaper if you go light bicycle route
I'd echo that. For SLR money you could get DT180s on LB rims.
My scalpel 29er 100mm front and rear is 21.5lb. It's 1x10 with XTR hollowgram cranks and xx1 ring. It's possible I could get it to 22lb with a reverb but I'm not gnar enough to need a dropper.
Buy the 15" version of your frame that'll save weight
Best weight saving tip ever!
My plan to save weight is to get fit enough over the summer to race my SS in the Autumn. Light bike, less to go wrong, and super bonus - no wrecked expensive drivetrain parts!
Oh, and what is up with the super steep seat angle on that S-Works Epic in the link?
That rigid light weight zooom may just be a little too much for wolfies fragile back..
How's the back pain? Has core strengthening helped?
My XC race bike is 21.5 lbs but it's an 07 Kona Heihei (26er) with Pace 80mm forks and some carefully sources weenie parts like Dura Ace bar end shifters adapted to MTB thumbshifters. That saves a lot of weight and money too. It can be ridden flat out through typical trail centre or race course rough stuff, but if it gets really rocky you have to take it easy. Due to the lack of travel and flexy wheels more than anything else. Not worried about it breaking, but that's cos I am good with kit despite being 89kg.
Best weight saving tip ever!
It's not really actually - bikes of a different size are generally only 0.25-0.5lbs variance IME. I've seen identical bikes with bigger variation than different sizes. Red herring.
A mate always used to say that once you reach that 23-24lbs mark on a full susser and 20-21 on an ht, any extra weight saving won't make up for the lack of ability or rider strength / fitness it is trying to compensate for.
There's no making up for ability or strength. A light bike is nice, a fast rider is fast - the two things are independent. Fast rider on a slow bike will be fast, but not as fast as on a fast bike.
It all depends on what you want to achieve when you ride.
I've weighed one bike ever. I had my hardtail in work so plopped it onto the scales - big parcel weighing things and probably not very accurate. I can't even mind what it weighed. If i was a serious weight weenie who raced xc i think i'd ditch the front brake. That must save 0.5lb?
I've weighed one bike ever. I had my hardtail in work so plopped it onto the scales - big parcel weighing things and probably not very accurate. I can't even mind what it weighed. If i was a serious weight weenie who raced xc i think i'd ditch the front brake. That must save 0.5lb?
eh!
Let me rephrase that then 😆
I couldn't care less what my bikes weigh, but if i was as serious as some about bike weight, i'd only run one brake (rear). Does that make more sense?
I think once my LB wheelset arrives, I could cut half a kilo by then. I already have small frame in carbon which is a + . I'm 70k-72kg all riding gear.. I think i will be happy with 11-11.5kg by the end of this build.
@cloudnine. My Back still knackered mate 🙁 physio starts next monday finally ..
i'd only run one brake (rear). Does that make more sense?
No! makes no sense at all! 😯
you take one of these [url= http://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/products/233964006/bike-spark-700-premium-s/ ]sparky[/url]
and you do this to it
[img] 
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and then you take a good long look at yourself, and wonder if that is why you are slower than your mates.