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I tend to be about 10-15 years behind the times with my cycling (hence having just stepping up from 26" to 29" and still running 3x9) and am still running inner tubes.
I've been having a nightmare of a job getting my WTB tyres onto my Hope XC wheels and even more of a tough time seating them; I'm dreading my first puncture.
It turns out that I now own tubeless ready wheels (Hope XC) and tyres (WTB Riddler 45c) and 'tis hedge cutting season round our way, which mean blackthorn cuttings on the road (nature's own caltrops).
I take it that all I'd need is 21mm tubeless tape, some valves and some sealant; is it as easy as that or would I be letting myself in for more pain?
Yes (*)
* can either go trivially or an world of pain. Getting the tape right is key.
my latest tubeless ready wheels go up with a track pump, there are no downsides IMHO
Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it's hard. Still worth it though
Changed tyres last night. Spent well over an hour trying to get the back set up (exact same tyre and wheel has worked together before), just didn't want to go (I'm using a tubeless track pump). Front combo went up first time. Work that one out?!
Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it's hard. Still worth it though
+1
Even if it's a faff, it's a faff once and then it's done.
If it doesn't go up first time (do it without sealant to check) just go around the rim with electrical tape a few layers at a time until it seals with a track pump. A compressor makes life easier, but isn't needed if you just add enough tape (fat bike is the exception being nigh on impossible without a compressor).
To save ££££, electrical tape works just fine at MTB pressures, just start with 4 layers. Valves (as long as they're threaded and you add the sealant before putting the tyre on) can be cut from old tubes.
Sometimes it's easy, sometimes it's hard. Still worth it though
+1
On MTB tubeless it is a no brainer.
I've recently tried road tubeless with some exposure 34c tyres and I am less convinced. Set up was ok, but they continue to weep sealant from the side walls. They do roll well however, and the sealant saved me from a puncture on the first outing.
As above, decent tape of the right width makes a difference. I find pre-seating the tyres once on the rim into the bead hooks helps as does ensuring they are wet with sealant all round. Recommend an airshot or similar too, much less aggro than a track pump though as has also been said, it does seem hit and miss at times and needing be more than one attempt depending on tyre/rim combination.
You'll have to excuse my ignorance on this subject, but I assume that the sealant will deal with thorn/glass type punctures on the fly?
General advice seems to be that two layers of tape will be needed for high pressures, I'm currently running about 40psi, but I'm needing to pump up to over 80psi go get the blighters to seat, would I need a double layer of tape?
I can't believe people run tubes still, I haven't had a puncture in 3 years
Yep. And you can ride over barbed wire...
Sealant will seal small punctures, yes, but is also just a good idea in general - it seems to seat the tyres better and maintain a good bead / rim interface so they stay inflated over weeks.You'll have to excuse my ignorance on this subject, but I assume that the sealant will deal with thorn/glass type punctures on the fly?General advice seems to be that two layers of tape will be needed for high pressures, I'm currently running about 40psi, but I'm needing to pump up to over 80psi go get the blighters to seat, would I need a double layer of tape?
I've never pumped a tubeless tyre up to 80 psi to seat it on a mountain bike, sounds way excessive and would have it flying off the rim on some designs. With proper tubeless ready stuff they should seat well below this.
Mad crazy pumpage is rarely required and when it is (typically with an older tyre with the bead a bit worn, or some rim / tyre combinations that are just bad) it's at the initial inflation stage - once it's going up above 20 psi or so you should be all set and it can inflate normally.
Okay, so I'm sold and it's a no brainer (seems silly having tubeless wheels and tyres and still carrying the weight/puncture penalty of a tube); is Stans still the 'go to' product or should I be looking at something else, there seems to be a fair bit of choice?
Hope XC wheels and WTB Riddler 45c tyres.
I've never pumped a tubeless tyre up to 80 psi to seat it on a mountain bike, sounds way excessive and would have it flying off the rim on some designs.
Could be an unfortunate tyre/rim combination but the mechanic at the LBS who finally seated them for me mentioned pushing a pair of wide mountain bike tyres up to 120psi to seat some troublesome ones.