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I'm looking at getting hold of a frame that can run at either 100mm travel front and rear in its XC guise, or a more relaxed 120/120. Only the XC version is available this year.
While getting the extra 20mm at the front is pretty straightforward, the 20mm extra at the back is more problematic - it's a custom Fox shock in a fairly unusual size ((190x40/45)) which would need to be rebuilt internally to extend it (new piston etc) and needs to be set up to work with specific lockout remotes etc.
So the question is (apart from why not buy something else) whether it's likely to work pretty well even with the 100mm of rear travel? This is a bike for longer rides, bikepacking, pretty non-technical mile munching, but not racing.
I'm not the kind of rider who notices every tiny tweak in suspension setup, but would I be constantly annoyed by it?
My FS bike only has 100mm of rear travel, but it really doesn't hold me back. Given the bikes intended use I'd suggest that 100mm will be fine for pretty much everything barring DH I suppose.
Certainly won't be doing DH, so that's reassuring. For 90% of the riding it will do the rear suspension is there simply for a bit more composure on rougher sections, traction during technical climbing and seated comfort on longer days.
If the bike is designed for 120mm max and the shock eye to eye stays the same when in 100mm setting with just shorter stroke you shouldn’t get any issues, ie geometry not effected, aside of a steeper ha due to a shorter by 20mm fork.
However if 100mm and longer stroke shock used to get 120mm the reduction in bb height at full travel may cause issues, along with potential contact of frame/linkage/shock.
Cheers Simon.
Just to confirm it's a frame designed to work with both 100mm and 120mm front and rear travel. So I'd get it with 100/100 and change only the fork, the only thing that would potentially mess with the intended geometry is putting a longer fork on the front while leaving the shock unchanged.
If the frame is designed to be either 120mm or 100mm then you've definitely done your homework - is it a case of fitting a longer stroke shock with the same eye to eye measurement, or is it simply a matter of moving the existing shock to a different mounting point?
As for the forks, they may be internally adjustable (IIRC some Rockshox forks have an internal spacer that can be added/removed to set the fork travel) so it could be straightforward.
Just out of interest, what's the frame?
No problems, all sounds good of geometry sorted should be be overly twitchy with the 100mm fork settings 😀
Just out of interest, what’s the frame?
Orbea Oiz, comes in a standard XC skinny racer format (available), and the same frame is sold as the Trail version with more bounce and a dropper (not available until after the summer)
Eye to eye is the same on both formats, just a longer stroke with (I presume) a slightly different tune.
Pinkbike review suggested it was a complete strip down with a different air piston (I was hoping it was the same shock with a spacer somewhere, but alas not)
Forks are Fox 32 on the XC and 34s on the trail, so probably easier to swap out and sell the 32 rather than lengthen it.
If you don't want to wait get the XC version, knowing you may want to get the shock re-tuned later on. If it's a custom tuned Fox shock then you would be able to get the code for the custom trail tune off Orbea.
Depending on the fork you may not need a new one - just a new damper cartridge.
I've done red-graded uplift stuff on my 120mm 'XC/Trail's bike and wasn't slowing down my mates on their 160mm enduro bikes.
For what it sounds like you're doing I'd leave it as 100/100mm and see how you get on as I suspect the shorter/firmer setup will actually be better for you if you take time to play with setup. If you want more plushness I can highly recommend the Vorsprung Corset air can and Push UL friction fork seals.
Edit: Just seen your post about 32 Vs 34 forks. My FS has 32's and I haven't had an issue with them but I'm light (~60kg pre-gear).
I think plan A is to see how I get on with 100/100. If I can get a comfortable riding position sorted, that should be enough travel. Depends how noodly the 32s will be with my massive 75kg riding weight!
It actually sounds like tweaking the shock might be very simple. From Pinkbike:
"The fork moves up to a longer travel, 120mm Fox 34 Float Factory, and while the shock is the same, the stroke is longer (the 100mm bike's internal travel-reduction spacer is removed)."
That spacer could well just be a bottom out bumper
That would be good if true - I was put off by this from the Pinkbike First Ride press junket:
Between the 100mm and 120mm suspension set-ups, there are some key differences in the shock. While both shocks look similar, the 120mm uses a different piston, has a longer stroke, and is more linear - standard trail/all-mountain philosophy here.
Maybe the different piston is about achieving the different tune rather than the actual stroke length change (clutches at straws...)?
TBH, I'd just leave the rear at 100mm. Slightly mismatched travel usually works well.
Orbea is not a brand that I'm overly familiar with, but it looks like a win-win to me. Certainly, you've a comprehensive range of forks out there covering 120mm, a Fox 34 or a Pike up front will give you welcome support if you're a larger rider.
If swapping out a spacer in the rear shock will give you and additional 20mm then it's a no-brainer.
Although my current go to bike is a 29er Enduro, a well sorted 120mm bike with strout forks and trail tyres is a very versatile thing indeed.
Spesh evo is available now unless you are set on the orbea.
Did look, bit over my budget though, especially as the spec didn't seem to match the Oiz in a few places.
Longer forks, leave the shock… 120/100 will properly be a better ride than either the 100/100 or 120/120 90% of the time.
Cheers, all reassuring advice!