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Chainset is Slx and had six months use. Cassette is sram 990 and new as is the chain. Jockey wheels are also new.
The gears a slow to change and sometimes a click of the shifter does nothing, so I have to shift again. The chain also slips on the bottom three cogs of the cassette only under power though.
Any ideas?
it's almost certainly your cables
Also worth checking the bearings in the freehub.
Bike telling you it wants singlespeeding?
Hydro gears for teh win, simples....
I would start by setting up and indexing your gears before looking into checking for damage. New gear cables stretch causing your gears to do funny things which is what I suspect here although I could be wrong. If you've gone for six months without having to do this yet then you've done well. No doubt you can find instructions online. I use 'the bike book' (haynes) which is useful although the instructions can be hard to follow.
Bent mech hanger or sticking cables would be my guess
as above, first thing i would check is the cables.
Please forgive me if thisis obvious - if you fit a new chain and cassette did you remember to split the chain to the correct length ? only asking as a slack chain would cause skipping on bottom 3 cogs.
for correct length wrap chain round largest chainring and largest cassette cog without going through rear mech. find wher the end meets and add a link.
shift rear mech into highest gear (i.e. largest cog on cassette) if possible grab cable and pull away from frame(only possible if not using full cableouters) to take up any slack.
Let go of cable and rotate cranks - its possible that the chain may drop to the next cog down at this stage.
Shift to lowest gear (i.e. smallest cog at back)
try one click shift from smallest to second cog - if no joy shift back to smallest and wind out adjuster barrel at either mech or shifter half a turn.
repeat -until it shifts - if you have to do this more than 4 times, wind the barrel adjuster in all the way, undo your cable and pull it tighter into the mech and repeat above
Once you are something like near clean shifting go for a quick spin and tweak the settings - wind barrel adjuster/s out to move up a gear and wind in to go down etc.
If the skipping still occurs after the above its probably not the chain cassette, cables or chainrings
could be the freehub body thats wearing/worn out - i.e. fails to engage into the pawls of the ratchet fullycausing it to skip under high pressure (i.e. biggest gears)
Alternatively it could be a bent mech hanger causing the problems with indexing, but its unlikely to cause the skipping
Its a new build and was ok until about 3 weeks ago, hanger is straighta s a die btw. Chain length is bob on. I am thinking a sticky cable is slowing shifting and when i piut power down teh chain shifts and then jumps if that makes sense. Will try new inners and outers and go for a full length outer this time
so what is more important - good inners or good outers?
New teflon covered inner and sp41 outer ordered
cruzheckler - to answer your question about which is more important - good inners or good outers - neither.
What is the most important thing for UK riding is a full length outer from shifter to rear mech to reduce the points where cr4p can get in the cable. I run 2 bikes like this and easily go 2 or more years on the same bog standard cables (£4 the lot, none of this mega expensive cable cr4p, it's simply not necessary) with perfect shifting and only little tweaks to allow for cable stretch.
I'm not the first person to notice the benefit, since my 2 UK designed bikes are built to house full length outers.
You can modify most other bike using zip ties to accomodate a full length outer.