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just got some xt to replace elixirs.
Still using my avid discs.
Are Shimano discs thicker than the avids as it seems that i have to pull the lever at least a quarter for the pads to engage the disc.
Discs arn't old and the pads move instantly so not a bleeding issue.
Have a play with the free stroke screw on the brakes. You may, in theory, be able to reach the bite point sooner.
My main issue with modern Shmano brakes is long lever travel too, I put a lot of it down to a lower leverage ratio that gives you more effective stopping power, but even on a new brake it's worth putting on the bleed cup, topping it up, and removing trapped air by flicking the lever for a few minutes. You'll be surprised how much air comes from a pre-bled system, and by how much the lever can firm up. Another thing that you can try (though not such an issue on brand new brakes), is to make sure the caliper pistons are moving freely and not being pulled back too far by their seals, so remove the disc, hold back one pad, pump the other out, push it back and repeat for the other side(make sure you push them back though, leaving them out is a short term bodge that'll lose effectiveness as your pads wear).
Long (or longer than usual) lever travel seems to be a characteristic of the new range of Shimano brakes. You're not alone. It's the same on my XTs and Zee models.
As stated, theoretically the free stroke adjuster should do something on the XT model. Try that. You're supposed to bleed the brake with the free stroke backed all the way off, and then when you're done wind it in and it should actually do something.
I must say though that once you've used the longer lever travel you kinda get used to it. I prefer it to my razor sharp R1s now.
I've only noticed the free stroke adjuster making any difference when the brake if bleed with it fully out as @epicbleedsolutions stated. The other thing to do it remove the wheel, give the lever 1 or 2 gentle squeezes (leaving about 4mm space between pads) and then reinsert the wheel.
However you'll need to redo this as the pads wear in my experience.
Cool. thanks for the replies.
I need to shorten the hoses so a bleed will be done then.
I haven't ridden the bike with them on but it does seem despite the long pull their are proper one figure jobs where as the elixirs still needed two. so as said probably just a case of getting used to them from crappy avid.
While I'm on and as its been mentioned. The free stroke adjustment screw?
it was fully screwed in from the box.
Do I unscrew it to get the bite point sooner?
How far does it unscrew?
Length of free stroke is all to do with the distance of the pads from the disc.
To get new XT brakes nice and "sharp" I do as above; remove wheel, squeeze lever once, put wheel back on. Rinse and repeat till pads are close enough to rotor. I find to get them really sharp feeling it's best to set them up initially so they are super, super close to the disc - even if that means a bit of rubbing. The rubbing with sort itself out after a bit of riding leaving the brake feeling sharp as.
If after you've sorted the lever throw you have sponginess then a bleed is needed.
Free stroke screw does bugger all as it is all the way to shortest stoke as standard. Bleed with it out and then screw in is a good move though.
Another thing - make sure to wind the adjuster out at least half way otherwise the fluid will not flow into the master cylinder and you will be left wondering why you cannot push new fluid in at the calliper end.