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My GXP XO crank pedal insert disbonded yesterday so I need some new cranks
Never had a problem with GXP but seems that’s not an option anymore, so considering that the cost and weight are similar between the 2 big Ss which system is more reliable? I did have issues with Shimano ones coming loose before moving to GXP but that was when I first started so could very well have been user error!
Any other options worth considering? DMR ones look good but no idea if they are actually solid
Going on my main trail bike that does Bikepacking trips through to WC DH tracks
Shimano HTII every time. Over any other option - not just DUB.
Shimano and have a look at the SLX chainset, it's about the same weight as XT and available in sizes down to 165mm.
In true STW fashion.
DUB, IME is fine, and lasts just as well as HTII, However I personally think the Shimano crank interface is better, as you don't need to tighten the crank to 50Nm, and the system to take up play is better. In use; both are pretty reliable, the SRAM cranks are just a PITA when you need to take them off.
As above; Shimano BB is longer lasting, but not as much as you'd think, SRAM cranks are more reliable, Shimano cranks are easier to fit/remove.
Im now running RF Era cranks with Enduro Max Hit BB. Not cheap, but very light and everything has a lifetime guarantee.
Thanks all! Will probably be getting some Shimano then. I do like the look of the Era and the new T Type Srams but a bit of an expense right now with a wedding to pay for!
DUB, IME is fine, and lasts just as well as HTII, However I personally think the Shimano crank interface is better, as you don’t need to tighten the crank to 50Nm, and the system to take up play is better. In use; both are pretty reliable, the SRAM cranks are just a PITA when you need to take them off.
I'll add to this.
DUB is also a soft alu axle. It has no resistance to damage from turning against seized bearings, or BB misalignment, so if you fail to notice, even once, there will be damage and slop on the axle thereafter.
Shimano axles are made of steel, and better able to tolerate BB misalignment because the axle is narrower.
SRAM cranks are more reliable,
My GXP XO crank pedal insert disbonded yesterday
Hmmm 😀
DUB is also a soft alu axle. It has no resistance to damage from turning against seized bearings, or BB misalignment
Honesty though if you fail to notice that your bearings have seized and you can turn the cranks - presumably with difficulty, they certainly won't be free spinning after all; then frankly, you deserve all you get.
Misalignment is a pain, fo'shure; but its hardly the fault of the crankset.
Shimano wins becasue the crankset is easier to assemble and doesn't require stupid torque values, but if you've the correct tools and technique it's no bother, they're no different in use to Shimano IME.
Honesty though if you fail to notice that your bearings have seized and you can turn the cranks – presumably with difficulty, they certainly won’t be free spinning after all; then frankly, you deserve all you get.
Thats what I thought, until I did it. It's actually pretty easy to pedal against the fairly limited friction of the plastic spacer.
I spotted that one side had seized after the first ride, but the axle is soft enough that it was undersized and baggy thereafter.
Misalignment is a pain, fo’shure; but its hardly the fault of the crankset.
Totally, but how many consumers check and face their frames these days? I'm willing to bet that many 'DUB is crap' opinions come from this.
Shimano wins becasue the crankset is easier to assemble and doesn’t require stupid torque values, but if you’ve the correct tools and technique it’s no bother, they’re no different in use to Shimano IME.
Agreed. It's not that its DUBs fault, its that unless your are meticulous in your installation and continued maintenance and checks, you have very little grace with DUB before its phooked.
Shimano, by virtue of its materials and design is inherently more tolerant when things go a bit wrong.
Totally, but how many consumers check and face their frames these days? I’m willing to bet that many ‘DUB is crap’ opinions come from this
Indeed, and the answer is: Press Fit (especially the Shimano BB94) 24mm axle standard mounted in deformable rubber/plastic, lighter, easier to make, better solution all round, that's designed to cope with a wee bit of misalignment, and look how well that went down with the public.
I prefer shimano now, generally cheaper and bb the lasts well. Dub bb’s are a pita. Wear quickly, seize and damage the shaft without realising. Needs constant attention! In winter they are useless, winter HT will be shimano after pre winter service and prep.
Indeed, and the answer is: Press Fit (especially the Shimano BB94) 24mm axle standard mounted in deformable rubber/plastic, lighter, easier to make, better solution all round, that’s designed to cope with a wee bit of misalignment, and look how well that went down with the public.
😆
I'm not convinced thats any better than BSA tbh. They all rely on proper QA and machining to function optimally. I think If I wanted to use a 30mm (or near as dammit for DUB) axle on my crankset, I'd want to use T47 for some alignment tolerance, and make sure its faced properly.
I wish I'd learnt what I know now three. Cranksets and one custom Ti frame ago...
I’m not convinced thats any better
It's a hard sell fo'shure 🤣 The more I read, the more I'm convinced that the 24mm Shimano PF was probably the solution that should've been. But y'know; profit, standards, market share, choose one, be a dick about it.
Bike industry continues to be its own worst enemy
If it was me, my options would be governed by the type of BB shell and the brand of drivetrain.
For a non T47 threaded BB shell then the 24 mm axle is the best option I reckon as anything bigger compromises on BB bearing size and lifespan. For a PF or T47 threaded BB shell, then Sram DUB and 30 mm axles are options to consider.
For a non-T47 threaded BB shell and a Sram drivetrain, Raceface Aeffect R is a good option for cranks. I'm running 2 sets of them, one with Sram X01 11 speed and the other with a singlespeed setup - no issues on both. The R's are stiffer and lighter than the non-R Aeffect cranks (the weight of the R's is within a couple of grams of Shimano XT) and the Cinch chainring fitment is good. There are lots of options for chainrings (Raceface and other brands) in 11 or 12 speed and they work with Shimano threaded 24 mm bottom brackets. The only issue i've had is the alu crank arm bolt cracking on 1 set, easy and cheap to swap it to a steel one though.
I wouldn't run Shimano cranks with a Sram drivetrain, mainly due to Shimano chainrings all being the same regarding offset. The difference is in the cranks, which come in -00 / -20 / -30 varieties (eg. FC-M7100 vs. FC-M7120) each of which corresponds to a different chainline (49-52-55mm). Sram, Raceface and others put the offset in the chainrings (3 mm Boost, 6 mm non-Boost). Shimano cranks also have a narrower Q factor than Raceface.
If you are running a Shimano drivetrain, then Shimano cranks would be the best option I reckon, regardless of what BB you have.
DUB are terrible. I’m about fit my fourth one after about 2,400 km. They fail gently and it’s not detectable peddling
Even if Dub was as good as HT2- which it isn't- it'd still be a worse choice just because HT2 is so ubiquitous. You can get BBs easier, you have more options when you do, and more cranks fit it if you need to replace that.
(I broke a crank on holiday which had a bloody stupid non-HT2 BB, and if it'd been HT2 like my other cranks it'd have been so easy to just fit a choice of shimano or hope or raceface or others that the shop had, IIRC I had 6 to choose from... but I couldn't, and they only had one super expensive crank that'd fit my stupid BB, so I had to track down a crank AND a suitable BB for my frame, which meant settling for something crap that I'd never have fitted normally just to get riding again. Very happy that all my bikes are now HT2, though, I shouldn't say that out loud or Shimano'll hear me and change to a 27.13 standard)
bit of an expense right now with a wedding to pay for!
False economy. If you really don’t want to be worrying about your cranks on the big day invest in some Ti eewings and you’ll be able to fully relax. Your other half will end up thanking you for it.
avoid DUB!!
after a few years in the wilderness with sram dub (awful) and raceface aeffect (fine but a bit heavy) im back to slx with a wheels manufacturing screw together bb in a pf92 shell
Undoing sram cranks needs an incredible amount of force. It’s a very poor design considering you can get get shimano off with an Allen key! On one bike I had a 1 metre wrecking bar on and still couldn’t get it to pop, the limiting factor being the force I could put through the pedal. So much force was going through the bike I wondered if it was good for the frame. Eventually it did loosen so I sold them and bought SLX.
Shimano got there first with HT2. Go for that.
SRAM stuff, quality-wise, is great. Their cassettes are hard, the mechs and shifters are crisp.
But the BB arrangements have always been second best to Shimano and the 'macro-preload' design.