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I'm building a gravel (god I hate that word) bike frome scratch and I'm undecided between Sram and Shimano. My heart says Shimano but I'm concerned that on flared drops the ease with which the levers shift would be a problem if resting your fingers on them at that angle. Can anyone confirm either way?
Unfortunately it looks like it will be quite some time before I can try in a shop for myself.
Cheers.
I don't have any issue with Ultegra or RS785 levers. I don't think GRX would be a problem either. Oh - that's on Woodchippers, probably the most flared example.
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Thanks for that. How do you find the woodchippers? I have Cowbells at the moment but fancy something a bit more flared.
I'm riding Easton EC70 with 16 degrees of flare (I think) on a Vielo. Have no problems at all. GRX Di2 is superb. My Sram Force bike, not so much!!
GRX with flares, such a much more natural position for my hands than traditional road bars. Work great on the drops finger reach wise too.
GRX lever hood are a great improvement on Syd brifter shape too
Love the Choppers. I fitted them for off road stuff but they are so comfy I tour with them too. I find they "force" me into a very natural position. They work well on the hoods and in the drops. My only query is whether a carbon version might be even comfier.
How flared are we talking here...? I've got some SPANK Wing 12 Vibrocore™ bars with GRX on them, the flare is just enough, no complaints there. The only problem I have, is I went for the narrower option, should've gone slightly wider...
I'm running GRX mechanical on 30 degree flared Pro Discover bars, loving them so far, super comfy.
Genetic Digest bars, 21 degree flare, with GRX 810s. Shifting is light as feather. Maybe a little fiddly to use the dropper remote on the hoods, but when it's really needed, I'm probably in the drops anyway.
Second the hood shape comments too. Coming from Sram Rival, the GRX provide a much more secure position over rougher terrain when riding on the hoods. Can quite comfortably descend rooty singletrack in the hoods without issue, no drama with hands slipping. Braking power from the hoods is awesome.
Used to be a bit of a SRAM fanboy, but GRX is a game changer.
Thanks all. Looks like it's GRX then!
Out of interest, are you all running 1x11 or 2x11?
For those using the new GRX, any issues with front brake lever travel ? I got a new Fugio 30 week before last and the front brake will touch the bar tape with hard braking, whereas back has an extra maybe 7-8mm. Have tried bleeding, and adjusting the reach, to no avail.... It’s actually now back at the LBS so they can have a look.
Depending on which grx levers they are they may have bite point adjustment as well.
OP - I'm running 2x11 with my RS785s.
Yeah, they are 810s and do, but they came fully wound out, so I can’t adjust anything to get them further out when applied hard. No air in them either as have bled as per the book, incl lots of rotating the bike around in the stand to change angles etc.
I'm running 1x and have similar issues to @iainc. My pads have 3.5km in them and the front lever is getting very close to the bars with hard braking.
@iainc should they not be bled with the adjustment wound in? I'm crap with hydraulic stuff so probably talking out of my bum.
Yes, I think so too, I did it that way. A few others have reported same issue so keen to see what LBS say.
Hmmm, makes me wonder if I should hold off.
Another think is I'm considering Di2 but my frame is externally routed so I've no idea how to protect the rather delicate looking cables.
running SRAM Force on my Evil with no problems. would prefer a little less free travel on the levers but thats just me. AXS shifting is a whole new level, superb!
I took delivery of a Mason ISO a few weeks back & though I’ve nothing to compare it to (never ridden flared bars before etc) but I’ve had absolutely no problem shifting or braking using GRX on Ritchey Venture Max. Shifting is really smooth (mechanical) & I can single finger brake as well with plenty of stopping power. Running 1x11 FWIW.
GRX it is then I think! Now just to decide on 1 or 2 X 11 and mechanical or Di2 if I can find a way to route it safely.
The di2 levers have a different pivot point so apparently brake nicer from the hoods.
Mine is fixed and ready to collect, though can’t get to shop till tue to pick it up. Callipers weren’t quite lined up, and some air I couldn’t find...LBS guys know their stuff so very pleased it’s sorted.
I did notice in my attempts to sort that the hoods seems to have stretched and become quite flappy, so hoping they have enough elasticity to settle back in...
Glad it's sorted. I've found that Shimano road stuff can be tricky to bleed. The thing that I've found does work is pushing fluid through from the caliper as a series of firm pulses. This seems to dislodge air that otherwise wouldn't come out.
The early Shimano road hydro stuff suffered from the hoods stretching, but I thought that was fixed. The GRX levers seem to have a lot more lumps and bumps in the rubber that locate into the recesses in the lever and they can be really fiddly to get them back where they should be.
Can't comment on flared bars, but I'd definitely recommend GRX. Much nicer than the SRAM Force on my other bike.
well, just picked bike up from LBS and brakes are better than new, fairly immediate action, even with bite point adjusters wound right in. Front and back both feel the way I would have expected them to be. I did wonder if they had needed the old XT trick of pumping the pads out a bit before bleeding, but no, I popped the pads out and the bleed spacer fits in perfectly, so all good.
In summary then, you can't bleed brakes?
In summary, maybe.... 😀. I have never been defeated in the past Colin...