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I have noticed that my chain will jump occasionally, also, it will change gear up (to the larger) the cassette but coming down is proving troublesome. I have to click the shifter twice for it to change any gears at all.
I have set up the derailleur as i normally would but it doesnt get any better, the chainrings look ok as does the cassette but the chain is a little stretched (13 1/8" rather than the 13" on sheldons site).
Would this stretching cause those issues and would a new chain hopefully sort it without the expense of a full drivetrain?
I also foolishly forgot to put the end on the gear cable so that has frayed a little!
cables
Oh, i just thought you could take up the slack and they would be ok, so it could just be the cable not working properly?
Cassette has done about 700 miles.
Chain and front chainring has done about 600 miles.
What would be the lifeline of these items or is it not that easy. I have started to put more power through the drivetrain rather than spinning.
Nope. It'll be dirt in the cable outers. Simples.
Either replace the outer and cables (best option)
Or... take them all out and give them a squirt through with GT85 / WD40. Although if you've frayed the cable you wont be able to poke it back through - so new cables.
Might as well get new outers too, from a LBS should be less than a tenner for all of it.
Would you recommend going for full length outers or is it not necessary?
If so then how do you keep them in place under the bb?
Full length is better, yes. But you'll have the either:
- Drill out the cable mounts, so the outer fits through.
- Use some cable guides, which plug into the mounts so you can run a full outer.
If you've run them without full outer for 700 miles and they've only now just got bad - i'd stick with the current configuration, as that's a good life span for cables.
What frame is this on? Hardtail I'm guessing? with a BB mounted cable guide for both cables?
Full length is not necessarily better IME.
Not necessarily, yes. But Generally 🙂
I'd stick with what works, on my Spark it's a full length outer - on the hartail and big bike it's short outers.
The Spark always pulls much nicer - but I think that's more to do with routing than the FLO.
I do get more life from the cables in the Spark though, going through mud.
Hi, yes it is a hardtail and both cables go under the BB, i have no problem drilling out the guides, can you get something that goes under the bb or is it a cable tie job?
Is there a cable set that anyone recommends or should i just buy any?
It had xtr cables inner and outer but they are quite expensive.
Personally, I'd stick with your short outers - like I said 700 miles is pretty good going.
Don't jump the gun, because a part wears out / fails. Pretty much all parts on a bike are disposable, and will eventually wear out / break.
Just keep the maintanence up, to keep the life as long as a possible.
Full outers can be cable tied to the existing guides.
Full outers + SRAM = no maintenance/adjustment in 6000 off-road miles
Partial outers + Shimano = maintenance/adjustment every couple of rides.
Shimano SP41 outers are pretty good as is Gore's Ride On system (expensive but fit & forget)
Avoid lubing the inners you want them as close to sterile as possible, maybe just a little household furniture polish to keep them slippery. Stainless inners most excellent