[Closed] Sell me the idea of ‘plus’ tyres on CX/ Gravel bikes

What do you mean by 'plus' tyres vis a visit CX? Over 33/35c? Or proper 'monster cross' 2-3" rubber?

I run my Hack most of the time on 35c semi-knobbly tyres; it does commuting, road duties, general dicking about on the local trails. For events like the Dirty Reiver, I've run 40-42c tyres, which give further comfort and ability off road. I'm about to get a Pickenflick which I hope to run most of the time with 45/47 rubber, and in time, plan to get 650b wheels and run 2"ish tyres, although would like to hear others experiences of this ... Does it become too draggy?

plus tyres on a gravel bike, isn't that just a drop bar 29er ?

Ive got a pickenflick too but only ever used on road and with 32c tyres. Like you i was wondering about 650b 42c or 47c for off road. But think it would feel draggy on road and not as good off-road as my rigid plus mtb. So why bother? Unless I’m missing something.

This might help you decide. I’m currently building up a 2017 Salsa Vaya running it with 650b x47 WTB byways.

http://ridinggravel.com/components/wheel-comparison-650b-vs-700c/

Hm. Gravel could easily br 45mm already, but CX has limitations in force due to UCI rules.

As above really, what is 'plus' on such a bike?

Cheers tho I guess I’m trying to compare in my head the merits of gravel plus VS rigid MTB. The bike with WTB horizons looks real nice but to me will feel draggier than it could do on road, and not too capable off road against an MTB. Other than smooth fire road not sure where I’d use a setup like that.

Choose yr surface. Choose yr tyres. Choose yr bars.

Easy as that.

I ended up with a monstercross for main multipurpose bike, and a hardtail for playtime.

I could fairly simply change the bars on the monstercross. It gets tyres changed to 35c for road touring but the 2.1-2.35 range seems fine for ATB duty. I doubt I'd go 29+ even if they fitted the frame. I could theoretically keep a set of + shod 27.5 wheels for some soft squidgy fun. Doubt I would though, would prefer a Longitude for that, the relaxed geo suits + tyres much better than the 'gravel bike'

Depends on your fancy really. The whole thing is blurred and just a bunch of silly labels any way. Doubt you would get anything big un a cx bike as they dont need them and if you are doing cx you want skinny tyres. I use 2.3s on the gravel on one bike but on 26 inch tyres. Got drppoed bars so whats that? Bit. Slow but has its moments especialy as it is ss. Going out soon on something with skinny 32mm file pattern cx tyres. Dunno what that bike is. Drops, fixed wheel from 1930s.
Careful planning big tyres on a Pick. Tried 40mm Nanos and they were close at the front and impossible at the back but mine is an early one.
Wanted for that bike 650b wheels with QR hubs

Choose yr surface. Choose yr tyres. Choose yr bars.

Agree with that although for tyres and bars it s more of a test your tyres, test your bars to see what you actually find best.

My rides are typically around 40% road and 60% gravel. I have tried various sizes of tyres and have gone back to using 23c as for the length of rides I do (2 hours max) I find them fine.
I also switch between drops, bullhorns and risers and favour risers.

As I ride 100% fixed gear that has led me to end up with a track bike with 23c tyres and riser bars for all my road, gravel and off road riding. It is the best bike for me although most would probably say that doesn't sound like the right bike...

The reason you like bigger tyres on your MTB - it's that, for a bike that is used on road 30-70% of the time. Cushier over bad roads and easy tracks. Some won't like the less 'roadie' feel but I'd say it's no slower over a long ride on average UK back roads. On perfect tarmac there's probably no point, stick to 700 x 25.

I guess I’m trying to compare in my head the merits of gravel plus VS rigid MTB

ime 650B x 47 isn't drastically different in overall feel to 700 x 42-45, but 700 x 45 plus guards is a tricky fit on most 'road'ish bikes. The 650Bs still feel like a considerably bigger-volume tyre when you hit things off-road though, even over the 700 x 45s. But it's still a way off what a 29 x 2.3 can handle.

650B road is part of the answer to my odd taste in road bikes - I want them to go off-road much of the time but I don't expect them to get that close to what my MTB does. Only a personal opinion but if a bike has drop bars it's better be good on tarmac for 50 miles plus - 650B x 47 or more makes it also pretty good on 50 miles plus of byways and 'gravel'.
The longer Ridgeway ride I do a few times most years is a good example of the tipping point for road-plus vs MTB. It's not difficult off-road terrain at all, just lumpy and rutted. If I do it one way on the road-plus bike it's OK, fun and fast but at times the drop bar position that works on road is getting a bit much. Do the full loop (a really long day or a weekend ride) and I'm wishing I was on the rigid 29er partway through the return leg, or thinking of re-routing adding more road miles to get a bit of a break.

As I ride 100% fixed gear that has led me to end up with a track bike with 23c tyres and riser bars for all my road, gravel and off road riding. It is the best bike for me although most would probably say that doesn't sound like the right bike...

Doesn't sound remotely like the right bike unless you have perfect teeth with no fillings 😉

I can only share my personal experience.

Straight handlebars are uncomfortable for me for any longer distance. A gravel bike with drop bars, an elevated position and huge tyres are great for longer distances when I ride over mixed terrain. 47 is a big difference compared to 35-37 in terms of comfort over rough terrain.
Also, i'm not racing anyone, and even if huge tyres slow me down a bit on ashpalt I don't really care because bigger tyres = more fun.

Choose yr surface. Choose yr tyres. Choose yr bars.

Easy as that.

Not for the first time I’m wishing STW had a ‘like’ or upvote...

There are some odd points though. I suppose the oddest is that 45mm is rapidly approaching 1.8” at which point we’re kinda back to the ‘full circle mountain bike’ thing.

This has started me wondering about flat bars... I have a moderately racy CX which I love, but I always ride the hoods. Would flat bars fundamentally improve anything?

Anyone using wtb horizons on anything other than fire roads? I guess they have limited grip on looser trails or anything muddy/grassy?

I've gone 32 - 35 - 40 on my Amazon. The 40c Nanos are really nice when the going gets a bit choppy. It's convinced me enough that I'm currently putting together a 650 set of wheels for it so I can try 47mm tyres.

47mm is 1.85" so there is an element of retro mountain biking about it. There are certainly more tyre choices at 1.85/1.9", though they tend to be MTB tyres rather than mixed terrain.

Anyone using wtb horizons on anything other than fire roads? I guess they have limited grip on looser trails or anything muddy/grassy?

On loose/dry they're fine if the pressure is right. On mud/grass etc they're as hopeless as any other bald tyre though the rib grooves might help a little more than a totally smooth tread - they do add some needed casing flex for sure as it's a tough tyre in the tread area.
The Byway has way more directional control when it's a bit wet, as much as I'd want from a tyre that's good for long road rides anyway. Still a drifty slidy fun tyre rather than a solid gripper. The Byway feels a bit more wooden to me than the Horizon, not a bad tyre at all, but I'd say the Horizon feels a tiny bit smoother at a given pressure. Panaracers are smoother still but more easily cut (flinty where I ride).

I suppose the oddest is that 45mm is rapidly approaching 1.8” at which point we’re kinda back to the ‘full circle mountain bike’ thing.

True, but who'd ride sub-2" tyres on a mountain bike now : )
45-55mm makes sense for mixed terrain use where there's a compromise made for road miles and a lighter wheel feel. 55mm is a kind of minimum for more technical off-road.

Doesn't sound remotely like the right bike unless you have perfect teeth with no fillings

All my teeth fell out years ago from the vibrations. I do find it as comfortable as I need although have to admit is is a bit sketchy on muddy areas.

I'm running tubeless 40mm Scwalbe G-Ones on my CX bike - they roll fast enough to keep up with my mates on the road, but the high volume really helps on natural terrain for grip and impact puncture protection.I'd on ride regular width CX tyres for racing - everything else give me a higher volume tyre. Quite fancy building a 650b x 50mm adventure bike for the same reason.

3rd ride on my bike...I'm impressed with how capable it is proving...42x11-42 and 700x40c Nanos and it is taking all the mud and clag in its stride. Done a bit of road, offroad, singletrack and a bombhole and it is proving to be fast and fun. I've put a cheap non-remote dropper on it and being able to lower the saddle an inch really helps hunker down on the drops on fast rough descents.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Edit: re: no fillings, forgot to mention I'm not really noticing the lack of suspension...probably a combination of larger tyres and a higher front end so less weight on the hands, but its proving to be a lot more comfortable than my old school CX bike on 35c tyres.