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A job I’ve been dreading, but I need to replace the cable to the rear shock, please tell me that by leaving the outer in place you just thread the new cable back through and it’ll pop out below the shock?
If its sticky, chances are the outer and the noodles will want replacing as well. Its easy enough to do.
oh my god stw and formatting "< br /> "
its very likely that as you push the cable through the preformed bent metal guide it will pop off its own ferrule and more force on the cable will just make it bend between the cable guide and now disconnected outer inside the frame and never let it out its holes
I would:
remove the twinkloc from the bar with cable still attached.
remove the shock bolts. trunion are regular thread, top shock bolt is opposite thread (righty loosey)
Then I would draw the cable out as you remove the shock allowing the twinlock to move along the cable path towards the headtube. the cable/frame boot will likely come with it
Then I would disconnect the grub screw, give myself some inner slack and chop the mangled end off the cable where the grub screw has damaged it.
Remove the inner entirely<br />question if i need a new outer but if not..
push a new cable through as per the old one.
take care as it reaches the 90deg bend metal guide. do the guide first, then install teh guide into the bottom of the nude starting with the cable
wind off all the tension on the twinlock canble tension screw and make sure its in open mode
pull the new inner tight and nip up the grub screw
check that when switching to traction mode the marking on the compression dial falls between the two lines
cycle lock/traction/lock a few times to make sure you've seated all the ferrules and check cable tension again.
ase shock back into frame pocket while bringing twinlock lever away from headtube port (so you dont kink the outer)
reseat the boot at you get close
reinstall bolts
reattach twinlock
check for full lockout function and add turns to the barrel adjuster if required.
Bonus points here while the shock and rear wheel are out to check your bearings. main pivot likely seized.
remember it uses flex stays so harder to check that other bikes.
My head hurts after reading that, rather you than me, good luck 😀
I've got one of these bikes and have done the job, all I can say is it's not so difficult that I remember problems doing it. I think the hardest bit was cutting the inner off neatly and getting a crimp on it short enough so it's not scratching the downtube recess/rubber boot in use, and of course threading cables through the frame. Just go on common sense and first principles. You will need to do outer and inner cable.
I did this job as part of a full bike overhaul after 3000km use and found rear suspension bearings were needing replaced but lockout noodles were reusable.
Thanks. The shock will be out as its off for a service.
main pivot likely seized
It was the last time around but this time I hope not, the bearings & complete pivot kit were replaced 2 years ago with top German ceramic bearings. Because of "things" the bike's only been used in the dry and for say 15 or so rides. Also, last time the kit was tricky to obtain but we were mid pandemic, and I don't have the skills to do that work myself. Having left it close to the start of race season, this is my biggest fear and makes we want to just ride the bike and leave alone TBH, I suspect 15 rides say 45 hours on a TFTuned serviced isn't disastrous. I'll find out when I ride it Sunday.
Anyway, thats ^^ not as complicated as it looks, I didn't know the rubber boot came easily away presumably revealing a hole in the frame, so know I know that when threading the new cable through, I can see it/hook it "up" toward the shock.
I did one in the early autumn, can't even remember anything about doing it, so it can't have been difficult.