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Hello
Big parcels arrived today so I guess I'm building my first mountain bike (built road bikes). I'll list the spec when I have time but I'm keen to crack open a beer and get building.
Two questions before I start:
1. I want to make the frame as long as possible for correct chain length. Can I let the air out the rear shock and will this compress/bottom out the shock and if so, how do I do this?
2. I need to have the frame at sag for b adjustment. Can I just add air to the shock until 80% (20% sag or whatever I'm going to run) of the stanchion is showing? I don't have someone to sit on the bike.
3. GXP BB has come with 2 metal spacers which go between the BB and frame. Do I need to install these (boost frame)?
3. 73mm BB so no spacers!!!
Nice frame. Have you weighed it? Just curious
1. No. You'l still need to compress it. Maybe use a strap to hold it down
2. No. Itll always be full stanchion unless compressed. Use strap to hold down
Nice frame. Have you weighed it? Just curious
1. No. You’l still need to compress it. Maybe use a strap to hold it down
2. No. Itll always be full stanchion unless compressed. Use strap to hold down
Unfortunately I didn't weigh it.
Having troubles mounting the rear caliper. Am I right in thinking my caliper is post mount and the rear mount is IS? Is this the right adapter and would I select the 180mm option as the caliper is 180mm spec although I'm using a 160mm rotor?
That’s the front brake you have lined up there I think! You should need an IS to post mount adapter and you normally get them for the size rotor you need, so 160mm.
You also need to remove the brake lever to thread the brake line through the gap in between the rear triangle and the seatpost so if you haven't got the bits to do that then you might as well get them when you order you disc adaptor.
And put some helitape/equiv on that area inside the rear triangle as the brake line can rub a fair bit.
Enjoy though, they're really fun bikes.
<div class="bbp-reply-author">Blazin-saddles
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<div class="bbp-reply-content">That’s the front brake you have lined up there I think! You should need an IS to post mount adapter and you normally get them for the size rotor you need, so 160mm.
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Product code on the box says rear so hopefully it's correct.
<div class="bbp-reply-author">Gotama
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<div class="bbp-reply-content">You also need to remove the brake lever to thread the brake line through the gap in between the rear triangle and the seatpost so if you haven’t got the bits to do that then you might as well get them when you order you disc adaptor.
And put some helitape/equiv on that area inside the rear triangle a<span style="font-size: 0.8rem;">s the brake line can rub a fair bit.</span>
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That's fine, rear brake line needs cutting anyway.
Thanks for the tip .
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Yes, SC use ISO rather than post mount brakes on the Tallboy. This has the advantage that if you are ham-fisted and strip the caliper mounts, you're only going to have to replace a cheap adapter rather than start helicoiling the frame. Doesn't seem a bad thing to me.
I have a TB2 CC and I absolutely love it. It's a twitchy descender (steep headangle relative to other bikes) but it's very agile on the twisty stuff and as good a climbing bike as I've ridden. You'll have a ball with yours I'm sure 🙂
I have a TB2 CC and I absolutely love it. It’s a twitchy descender (steep headangle relative to other bikes) but it’s very agile on the twisty stuff and as good a climbing bike as I’ve ridden. You’ll have a ball with yours I’m sure 🙂
That's why I chose the bike, steep head angle as I come from road racing and wanted something that blurred the lines between trail and XC. Left to my own devices I'll probably ride XC but wanted something capable of doing more gravity orientated trails with my friends on the weekend.
It's a great bike - you won't regret it. They're not a common sight on the trails too - I think I've only ever seen a couple and I've never seen another CC - which gives it an air of individuality.
Can I ask - did you buy the frame new from a proper dealer? In which case, you should get the lifetime frame bearing warranty. This is very useful as I find that mine chomps through a set of upper bearings every year, although the grease injection ports on the lowers keep them good for longer. They are easy to change and Jungle are very good at sending them out - you just fill in an online form and they appear the next day.
Yes, proper dealer with the largest demo fleet - pedal and spoke.
I guess you don't see many around as it's short travel.
Product code on the box says rear so hopefully it’s correct.
Not or sure why the Logo is upside down then.
Lovely Bike OP, I've just built up my ali TB 2 but it's no flyweight 🙂
Not ridden yet but hoping it will ride as smooth as the TBLT I had.
daern, any idea how much your frame weighed?
Not or sure why the Logo is upside down then.
Because the caliper is upside down in the picture 🙂
daern, any idea how much your frame weighed?
I don't think I've ever weighed it, but the whole bike is just under 11kg (bit under 24lbs). It's not a silly build, but I guess it's probably at the lighter end of the scale.
(Fox Factory 32, M9000 XTR 2x11, SC carbon bar, Niner carbon seatpost, WTB KOMs laced to Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs + Maxxis Ikons)
Not or sure why the Logo is upside down then.
Only had them that way to show they didn't fit on the IS mount and ask which mount adapter I needed. All fitted now.
right you are then.
Rotors, calipers, rear mech installed (hi + lo dialed in), lines run (brakes still to cut and bleed). Lent my chain breaker out but mate came round and gave me his and 8mm spanner so I can cut the brake lines down. Day off today so will install chain, index gears and cut + bleed brakes.
Question: if I completely compress my rear shock the frame lengthens by 2cm. Should I strap the frame up before I size the chain?
Looking good!
A couple of notes that are probably completely obvious and you may already have considered:
- It's a good idea to get into the habit of not clamping a frame by the top tube. As it happens, on that particular frame, you'll probably be OK, but you'd be much better having it clamped by the seatpost. I keep a box of them in the workshop, so can slap one into a frame prior to build, so I don't need to worry about scratching anything
- Unless you are really, really confident with your sizing, I wouldn't cut down the steerer without sticking a few spacers in first (both above and below the stem). You can always trim it down a bit more after, but it's much harder to glue it back together once you've cut it short... (obviously, you've probably already worked this out and just slapped it together for the photo!)
My Hunt wheels for the road bike turned up yesterday and I'm very happy with them, so I hope that yours will be just as good. Seem excellent kit for the money.
Waiting for the next photos...
On the shock, just remove the lower bolt so you can move the suspension easily to size the chain. Makes it much easier than messing around with removing all the shock pressure.
There are lots of good videos out there on how to setup you suspension, setting sag, compression and rebound damping.
I removed the air and it was easy to compress the shock. Where the outer and inner meet is where the overlap begins fully compressed and the vertical links are the overlap. Sram says one inner and outer link should be left on the chain in big to big rings. Before I cut, is this the right link to remove to keep 1 inner and 1 outer?
– It’s a good idea to get into the habit of not clamping a frame by the top tube. As it happens, on that particular frame, you’ll probably be OK, but you’d be much better having it clamped by the seatpost. I keep a box of them in the workshop, so can slap one into a frame prior to build, so I don’t need to worry about scratching anything
– Unless you are really, really confident with your sizing, I wouldn’t cut down the steerer without sticking a few spacers in first (both above and below the stem). You can always trim it down a bit more after, but it’s much harder to glue it back together once you’ve cut it short… (obviously, you’ve probably already worked this out and just slapped it together for the photo!)
My Hunt wheels for the road bike turned up yesterday and I’m very happy with them, so I hope that yours will be just as good. Seem excellent kit for the money.
I've got no choice atm the moment as the post hasn't arrived and I come from road biking and all my seatposts are super skinny 27.2mm. It's aluminum and welds should be good 15x times the weight (I hope).
Not cutting anything yet as the stem hasn't arrived and have no idea how tall it is. I'm going to leave 15mm of stack over the stem even if I run it slammed.
My wheels came with a puncture to the rear rim tape. Emailed Hunt and they go back to me in 3-4 hours, they're sending out new rim tape.
No major changes. Chain is on and sized but can't index the gears as I can't snap the powerlock link by hand and don't have tires on the bike let alone fluid in the brakes to stand over and snap into place. Annoyingly went to bleed the brakes; pads out, syringes full, etc... to find out the bakes use the old bleed system and not the edge system. Will next day the syringe and collecting the DHF/HRII tires tomorrow. Dropper so might get that on later. Brake cables cut to size.
My wheels came with a puncture to the rear rim tape. Emailed Hunt and they go back to me in 3-4 hours, they’re sending out new rim tape.
I know this sounds silly, but the puncture wasn't where the valve hole was, was it? I only ask because my new Hunt road wheels that arrived yesterday had exactly the same thing and it took me a good 10s to realise that it was to mark where you'd need to expand the hole to fit a valve / tube...
Be honest. You're amongst friends here 🙂
Before I cut, is this the right link to remove to keep 1 inner and 1 outer?
Yes, this looks fine. SRAMs instructions state one inner and one outer link for FS bikes and two inners and two outers for hardtails. Worth double checking with a ruler where the point in your travel is with the longest chainstay length. It's normally fully compressed (and I seem to recall that the Tallboys follow this) but it's best to be sure. Personally, I unbolt the shock to do this as it saves messing with the pressure.
Chain is on and sized but can’t index the gears as I can’t snap the powerlock link by hand and don’t have tires on the bike let alone fluid in the brakes to stand over and snap into place.
You need this:
https://www.evanscycles.com/birzman-chain-link-removing-tool-EV189395
It's one of those daft tools that I use a surprising amount. It both removes and fits chain links (not all do) and is highly recommended.
you can normally snap a Sram chain link into place by holding the wheel in your hand and banging the crank sharply with your hand.
I know this sounds silly, but the puncture wasn’t where the valve hole was, was it? I only ask because my new Hunt road wheels that arrived yesterday had exactly the same thing and it took me a good 10s to realise that it was to mark where you’d need to expand the hole to fit a valve / tube
Hahahaha, it's the home for the valve...I'm an idiot .
you can normally snap a Sram chain link into place by holding the wheel in your hand and banging the crank sharply with your hand.
Tried with so much force to no avail.
You need this:
https://www.evanscycles.com/birzman-chain-link-removing-tool-EV189395
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Think my friend has this I might grab tonight.
did you have the link on the top side of the chainstay when you tried?
On the shock, just remove the lower bolt so you can move the suspension easily to size the chain. Makes it much easier than messing around with removing all the shock pressure.
Good shout, never thought of doing that .....
Good to see your GX Eagle has the later jockey wheel to stop the chain falling of it and destroying the mech. 👍
What grips are those?
Race Face Half Nelson.
did you have the link on the top side of the chainstay when you tried?
Now you say that, all done! HAHAHAHA
Gear indexed, very easy compared to road bikes and dropper cables routed.
Good to see your GX Eagle has the later jockey wheel to stop the chain falling of it and destroying the mech.
Oh? What should we be looking for here? I was aware that there had been some issues with them dropping the chain and chewing up the rear mech, but I didn't know it had been fixed. I've done a couple recently, so would be good to know if they are also "fixed"...
Good to see your GX Eagle has the later jockey wheel to stop the chain falling of it and destroying the mech.
Oh? What should we be looking for here? I was aware that there had been some issues with them dropping the chain and chewing up the rear mech, but I didn’t know it had been fixed. I’ve done a couple recently, so would be good to know if they are also “fixed”…
I'd be interested to know this too.
Daern, I see that link tool has sold out now but assume you can undo it and swap the arms around to close a link?
Daern, I see that link tool has sold out now but assume you can undo it and swap the arms around to close a link?
No, you just use it backwards if that makes sense - so to close a link, you insert it into the gap on either side and pull the arms apart. To open a link, you insert it directly on either side of the link to be removed, squeeze the sides of the link to "unlock" it, and then squeeze the pliers together as you would normally.
The position of the pliers is the same in both case - you just pull rather than squeeze the arms to lock the link.
On the shock, just remove the lower bolt so you can move the suspension easily to size the chain. Makes it much easier than messing around with removing all the shock pressure.
Good shout, never thought of doing that …..
This is also a good thing to do from time to time to make sure your linkage is running free and not sticking or loose - it's very hard to tell with the shock in place, but if you've got seized bearings you can usually tell with the shock disconnected (and wheels removed) by carefully moving the rear triangle up and down and feeling for bearing play, or grinding. Quick and easy - 10 minute job - just don't forget to torque it back up correctly and a dab of threadlock to keep the bolt in place. Generally, your frame manufacturer will have correct assembly instructions.
To OP, it's well worth learning how to check and service the linkage on your own frame (if you don't already know how, of course!). It's easy to do, although it needs some special tools, and as the bearings come free from Jungle, it will greatly reduce the cost of keeping the bike running in tip-top condition 🙂
To OP, it’s well worth learning how to check and service the linkage on your own frame (if you don’t already know how, of course!). It’s easy to do, although it needs some special tools, and as the bearings come free from Jungle, it will greatly reduce the cost of keeping the bike running in tip-top condition
I'll definitely be doing this myself know I've found out how much I'm going to have to fork out (excuse the pun) for suspension servicing. Only take my bike to the workshop for wheel trueing.
Only take my bike to the workshop for wheel trueing.
Wheel trueing you say? You should learn that too - it's actually surprisingly fun and very satisfying.
Once you've learnt how to build your own wheels, you'll never look back 🙂
How has nobody mentioned the stem, sorry rudder?!?! What length is that, must be at least 120mm? If you need it that long the frame is way too small, I can't imagine it will handle well either
Dropper installed and cables cut & routed. Unfortunately ordered the wrong clamp so hopefully oneup will exchange. Cut steerer down with 20mm extra (bloody hope that's enough).
Tried to fit tiresbut no luck. Bead seals fine but air/sealant around the valve. 2 layers of tape, no o-ring but the veil has a rubber, taperedt bung. Tape is really brittle.
Just need to degrease chain, bleed brakes and get a mechanic to insert the star nut.
I would have left another spacer on to try before doing the final cut but that's me with my weird build!!
I’m sure you could fit the stat nut given what you have done already. It’s easy enough. If you have a socket that fits nice and snug in the steerer, just tap the star nut in with that.
How has nobody mentioned the stem, sorry rudder?!?! What length is that, must be at least 120mm? If you need it that long the frame is way too small, I can’t imagine it will handle well either
Hahahaha, that's my road stem. I've replaced it with a 60mm.
All done sort from sealing tires, installing star nut and dropper lever as I ordered the wrong clamp .
Weighs in at 13.7kg (with sealant), 200g lighter than the first carbon framed tallboy in the lineup and I've got much better running gear than that spec. Seat will take it 1-200g heavier.
I'll do a proper photoshoot in the woods today or tomorrow.
Are you sure the weight is 13.7kg (30lbs)? Seems a lot for a Tallboy.
Always liked the Tallboy, maybe my next bike!
Are you sure the weight is 13.7kg (30lbs)? Seems a lot for a Tallboy.
Apparently so but it's the aluminium model.