Morning all.
When I got my 1st UST rims - Mavic 819s, about 6 years ago I ran 'normal' Nevegals on them with sealant with some success. After a few years, my riding got more aggressive and as a result had some bad experiences with tyres belching and completely popping off the rim at a less than opportune moment at Aston Hill.
From then on I've used UST tyres and now live in rocky Spain.
I may be in a position to buy a Hope Hoop, pro2 with flow rims any time soon but don't know whether to just use tape and stick with UST tyres or get a rim strip giving more, and cheaper, possibilities with tyre choice.
I do ride quickly and aggressively on steep, rocky trails - will I just smash up the rims and rip up side-walls using ordinary tyres?
I currently run a 2.35 Ignitor UST front and Crossmark 2.25 UST rear on a C456 with Magura wotans if that help guage my riding.
You can tape them up, then run them with tubeless tyres and sealant, non tubeless tyres with tubes, or any combination.
Yeah, but you need the rim strip to run non-UST tyres tubeless, innit, or not? And if so, how good compared with my unsatisfactory normal tyres tubeless with UST rims?
Basically, do I just tape em up or faff around with a rim strip for the best result?
And also, what's so special about the 'yellow' tape? Seems bleedin' expensive for some sticky insulation tape!
It's really really strong I guess, and there's quite a lot of it, seems enough for several wheel sets.
Ok to set up a stans rim for tubeless use, you tape it up, stick a valve in, pop a tyre on, add some sealant, pump up, ride.
To then change that to tube, you let the air out, clean out the sealant (if you can be bothered), take the valve out, chuck a tube in, pump up, ride.
If you're asking how do non tubeless tyres compare to tubeless tyres when being run tubeless, it completely depends on the brand and the tyre, and the pressure, and the riding style, etc. etc.
Yeah, that's what I'm getting at - I like to run fat(ish) tyres at low (22-25psi)pressures.
I have a feeling that I'm going to have to stick with UST tyres to do this, especially in rocky southern Catalunya, which would mean just go with the Yellow tape.
Normal tyre side-walls just not being able to take the abuse.
I've run 2.4 UST rubber queens (which are FAAAAAT) at those pressures in the Alps, on the 355s. Was proper awesome. Tyres like that would probably have a bit more support on a wider rim like the flow though, so you'd be fine I reckon.
Yeah, but would you dare run a non-UST version of that tyre, tubeless, with sealant, is kinda what I'm asking. And if so, I'm assuming I'd have to use a rim strip rather than just the tape.
even better idea! drill the valve holes like I did and run "normal" tubes 😉
If I did, I'd just run tape and a valve. I think I've only ever run a non tubeless rubber queen once, and it didn't actually get ridden (I was just checking clearance).
Think I'd always go for UST tyres, they're stronger, and you get peace of mind. Only way of finding out how a non UST tyre will work is trying it I think.
even better idea! drill the valve holes like I did and run "normal" tubes
I've managed to find some presta bmx tubes in my LBS, so I can run "proper" tubes on my bmx now as well as all my other bikes 😉
Yeah - peace of mind is a great thing on a bike. That's what's making me think that a rim-strip AND UST tyres may be the way to go - I don't like holding back on decents!
LOL
Oh, I forgot to add - I HATE TUBES!!!!!!!
You do not need the rim strips. I don't know why you think you do? The rim strips are better for converting other rims (Non Notubes) to tubeless. I just use the yellow tape (whether UST or non).
p.s. I was in Lanjaron and Bubion in the New Year...I was running normal tyres tubeless, I tore up the back one on the first day! I now use UST on the back (High Roller 2.35) and a normal tyre up front (Minion 2.35 DHF, not available in UST anyway). I haven't had any problems with this setup.
😆 Why would you do that?I've [u]managed to find[/u] some presta bmx tubes in my LBS, so I can run "proper" tubes on my bmx now as well as all my other bikes
using presta valved tubes in Schraeder drilled rims isn't exactly ideal. 😕
from a purely common sense point of view Shraeder valves make much more sense than presta but presta keeps bicycle valve snobs happy and smug in their ignorance.
having presta drilled rims on any bike other than a roadbike is utterly stupid IMO (as if you ever find yourself in need of borrowing/buying a tube while out and about you have much less chance of "managing to find" a random rider with a presta tube as a spare. lots of non-bike shops/supermarkets/petrol stations etc. stock tubes too but you're much less likely to "manage to find" a presta tube in one.
Tubeless can be done with a schraeder valve just as easily as presta (infact more easily since [s]all[u] shraeder valves have removable cores not to mention a wider neck for sealant and quicker airing up with a compressor)
from a purely common sense point of view Shraeder valves make much more sense than presta
Presta - lighter, smaller hole needed drilling in the rim, easier to get a pump on, easier to deflate, can use a valve collar, easier to get up to higher pressures, easier to spell.
Tubeless can be done with a schraeder valve just as easily as presta (infact more easily since [s]all[u] shraeder valves have removable cores not to mention a wider neck for sealant and quicker airing up with a compressor)
Never had a problem putting sealant in a presta, and always use a track pump, and never had problems with that.
having presta drilled rims on any bike other than a roadbike is utterly stupid IMO (as if you ever find yourself in need of borrowing/buying a tube while out and about you have much less chance of "managing to find" a random rider with a presta tube as a spare. lots of non-bike shops/supermarkets/petrol stations etc. stock tubes too but you're much less likely to "manage to find" a presta tube in one.
I take spare tubes and a pump. The majority of people I ride with (probably all if you excluded a few dhers and bmxers) use presta.
using presta valved tubes in Schraeder drilled rims isn't exactly ideal.
Actually, it was much easier then schrader, and seems to be working perfectly.
Although I feel we may have come off topic slightly.
Hey Jambon listen to what everyone is telling you............
The rim strips are for converting non tubless rims to tubeless.
The stans rims, flows etc are designed o run tubeless with just the yellow tape.
The yellow tape IS NOT normal electrical tape. Its really stiff and strong.BE sure to watch the vid on stans site of how to instal it.
Once you have the tape and valves run whatever tyres you like tubeless or not. I have used bonty tubeless ready that are massive. I have run tubes and without now on maxxis high roller standard spec but with sealant and NO Tubes.
You decide what tyres and presure the rim edge is much smaller than a standard UST mavic rim so pinch flats are less likely.
Oh and FYI I ride mostly the lakes and Scotland lots of jaggy slate and wet rock some of the hills are quite steep too. Is Spanish rock more dangerous to tyres? 😉
[*]
Presta - lighter 😆
smaller hole needed drilling in the rim = heavier rim 😉
easier to get a pump on = are you a complete retard?
easier to deflate = see above ^^
can use a valve collar = as you can with shrader (but they are tough enough not to need them)
easier to get up to higher pressures = quite the opposite is true
easier to spell. - I'll give you that one 8)[/*]
never ride alone? or double/triple puncture? or used up every spare tube on a longer group ride?I take spare tubes and a pump. The majority of people I ride with (probably all if you excluded a few dhers and bmxers) use presta.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ad_hominem
never ride alone? or double/triple puncture? or used up every spare tube on a longer group ride?
Yes, no - I run tubeless, no.
Flows with yellow tape, no rim strips, and cheapo 2.35 wire highrollers here. They're fine.