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As above...
the tyres on my road bikes go upto 140psi and the only pump I know that will do that is a Topeak Turbo Morph which is strapped to my seat tube...
Anyone know a pocket pump that will do those kind of pressures?
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Birzman-Horizons-Hand-Pumps_51969.htm
I have one of these... its been great.
24cm long, light and goes up to 160psi
depends how big your pockets are though.. 🙂
Lezyne road something or other www.lezyne.com/hand-pumps
[url= http://www.tyreinflators.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=269&category=4 ]Cheap co2[/url]
Rule #1// being stranded with flat tyre sucks sump bilge.
Stick with the big yin (says he who carries a teeny syringe of a pump - that is useless)
I'm the worst roadie in Christendom, so I ignore the rules and carry a big honkin framemounted pump- and already 2 roadies have been glad of it, when I came across them trying to reinflate their tyres with pumps the size of my thumb.
So, get whatever stupid little toy is currently cool, and hopefully I'll ride past when you puncture 😉
CO2?
i've had a Zefal HPX frame-fit pump on my bike since forever, it always gets handed to people after they've been thwapping away on their asthmatic mini-pumps for a few minutes and i'm getting cold and bored - "Do you want to borrow a proper pump?"
I have a topeak mini track pump, where are these rules from anyway??
I normally just have CO2 but couldn't pack that in Air Freight
Blackburn airstik sl. Not good to 140: but does about 90 very well
What JoB said...and LOL at 140.
* rule 30 and carry a decent pump. I use a Road Morph, but even that fits in my pocket (even if it as long as my back)
It's been used on every occasion a club rider had a puncture, it's known as the 'club pump'
Failing that a mini pump and a re-sealable Co2 to top up with.
Never seen a mini pump perform up to 100psi yet.
Whilst on this subject, I think there's another c of a rule about tube lockrings and valve caps. First of all WTF 😯 secondly I suggest at least fitting one lockring to one of your tubes. Other wise you pump is going to be wiggling that valve about until it snaps off. And a cap can hold some air in a terminally damaged tube.
last time I got beyond 110 there was a loud bang
Lezyne as above, expensive but brilliant. Check out the reviews on cr or evans, very positive.
Frame fit pumps are more acceptable the older the group you ride with
And what old git said about stupid rules ... Much like slam that stem
Rules made by ****s
have we missed the fact the rules are meant to be humorous and send up all the roadie lore, traditions and culture? 🙄
ctm - I'm afraid that the usual STW sense-of-humour issue has obscured the truth.
140psi is way too much unless you're riding on extremely smooth roads/track. Just because the tyre says it's 140psi max rated doesn't mean you should pump it up that much (it will be slower to on UK roads).
140psi is way too much unless you're riding on extremely smooth roads/track. Just because the tyre says it's 140psi max rated doesn't mean you should pump it up that much (it will be slower to on UK roads).
+1
And CO2.
140psi is way too much unless you're riding on extremely smooth roads/track. Just because the tyre says it's 140psi max rated doesn't mean you should pump it up that much (it will be slower to on UK roads).
Was just thinking that. would be like riding with solid tyres.
The best portable pump I have ever had is my current one bought from Tesco. It’s really light and has a nice action, what more do you want. I gave the old expensive topeak one away as its overly small size made it a real pain to use.
PS, I use the track pump at home for any accuracy. This thing just lives in my Bag for trail side duty.
have we missed the fact the rules are meant to be humorous and send up all the roadie lore, traditions and culture?
WHAAAAAAAAT??????
What really helps pump wise is a jersey with a pump pocket on the back - then you can carry something half decent (Topeak Road Morph for me)in the pocket and it isn't annoying.
I like frame pumps but it's always on the wrong bike and I find out 10 miles away, with a puncture.
I've got one of these - [url= http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=42197 ]Airwave Motion[/url]
Use it for MTB and road, will do 100 psi on a road tyre with no problem. Very slim, but maybe a tad long to go in ajersey pocket TBH.
I have a little pump that work until you cant press the tyre in anymore, not sure what psi it is but it works pretty well.
140psi is a bit extreme! I normally do mine to 120, im a large rider (81kgs and have been up to 85kg) and never had a problem.
A mate of mine had a rim warp due due to to much psi so be warned (it was sh*te rim)
are you new here?im a large rider (81kgs and have been up to 85kg)
I do the same on xc rides, I've got a high volume £5 halfords plastic job been using for 10years 🙂"Do you want to borrow a proper pump?"
Only thing I have against frame fit is multiple bikes and chances of getting robbed when I lock my bike up. Lezyne pressure drives are OK.
I've bent a Zefal HPX clean in two. Which was embarrassing as it wasn't mine. Still got the replacement (size 4 FFS - I'm 5'7") in my garage.
I used a Lezyne road drive and CO2.
But frame pumps are ace - I know lots of proper riders who use them. Nothing to be ashamed of.
Running clinchers at 140PSI on the other hand....
I've got a high volume £5 halfords plastic job been using for 10years
it has lasted do long because no one borrows it 😉
Lezyne mini track oump thingy on the fram
the rules are joking and if i do puncture i want to be able to deal with it easily
YMMV
+1 for Lezyne pumps. I've got a mini-track pump thing for the MTB which lives in my rucksack, and the smallest road mini-pump which lives in my back pocket on the road bike.
For the road pump, the hose avoids putting strain on the valve when pumping, and it gets the tyre up to a rideable pressure surprisingly quickly. I have my tyres at 110psi, but after a puncture I don't worry about getting all the way back up to that pressure until I get home and can use a track pump.
I do also carry CO2, but wouldn't rely on it as my only option.
If you have tubes with a removable valve core and are using a Lezyne pump, just make sure that the valve core is done up really tight (and possibly with threadlock), otherwise all your hard work in pumping the tyre up to a nice pressure will be undone when the valve core unscrews as you remove the pump connector.
Don't ask me how I know this... 😳
I've had this too, think it's the adaptor/hose thing getting worn and cross threading, got a new adaptor and it's fine.Don't ask me how I know this...
Don't ask me how I know this...
Oh yeah - good point. Been there, done that. That is the one design flaw with them. I remember getting very pissed off on the side of an Italian mountain discovering that I had no tool that would get a good grip on the valve core.
The road pump I have has a button to release the pressure in the hose, which I think may solve the problem as it means that the air pressure only increases friction in the threads that you don't want to undo.
have we missed the fact the rules are meant to be humorous and send up all the roadie lore, traditions and culture?
Wrong mate, those rules were written by people who really believe in them. I mean really
my lezyne has the button to release pressure and not had an ssue yet but it is only 6 mths old
Plenty will do the job but do you really want 5 pumps for each psi?
i have a specialized shock frame pump which has the aded bonus of being able to pump up forks. on group rides (mtb and road) it has been used many times. they change the design tho so, unlike the road morph the handle doesn't twist out which if you're old/cold can be annoying.
i carry my pump in one of those bag things that goes on my back along wiht all the other nonsense i carry. i have yet to hear a complaint about this, rules or no....
Topeak Pocket Master Blaster. Has been used a few times, and not just by myself. CO2 is fast, but I can't see the point. Three cartridges or a new pump?
Oh and The Rules are the rules, surely? So you need a [url= http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/silca-impero-classic-frame-pump ]silca frame pump[/url]
140psi ?
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(Alu Lezyne with the flexi hose only goes up to 9 but it's enough)
So what's wrong with running my tyres at 140psi then - I get the message - why is it worse than 120 or 100?
i only ever went past 110 once and the tube exploded,
At 100 mine are rock hard anyway
So what's wrong with running my tyres at 140psi then - I get the message - why is it worse than 120
Just because it says you can doesn't mean you should. 23mm tires needn't go over 95psi - unless you're riding track.
Read up on the 15% rule if you can deal with some rationale to tire pressure.
140psi will give a harsher and slower ride on UK roads, I'm 95Kg and fine at 100 front & rear. I can see a 120Kg rider might want a bit more but even then not 140psi.
15% rule?
<quick google>
as in 15% tyre drop*?
how the hell do you manage that without your own mechanic on stand by?
*i presume this means the rim is 15% closer to the ground when you are onboard and tyre is at correct pressure.
how the hell do you manage that without your own mechanic on stand by?
A friend and a tape measure?
alright mate can you come round and measure my tyres while I'm on and off the bike? i'll either get "no but I'll meet you down the pub" or same response I'd get from my mrs, "bugger off"A friend and a tape measure?
You either need better mates, a more understanding wife or a complicated series of mirrors.
D0NK - Member15% rule?
<quick google>
as in 15% tyre drop*?
how the hell do you manage that without your own mechanic on stand by?
Erm...you read the straighforward table that's been produced?
didn't find that, linky? just out of interest, I normally make do with 95/100 F/RErm...you read the straighforward table that's been produced?
Plenty will do the job but do you really want 5 pumps for each psi?
Pumps are a straightforward trade-off between amount of air shifted and amount of force needed to shift it. A mini-pump that shifts enough air to do pump a MTB tyre to 40psi will be very hard work at 100+psi. A mini-pump that's easy to use at 100psi will take forever to fill a MTB tyre.
Track pumps have a very long stroke and are easy to put a lot of force into so you can make a pump that does both jobs well.
With a mini-pump the trade-off really matters, which is why you get different pumps for high volume/low pressure (i.e. MTB) and low volume/high pressure (i.e. road)
alright mate can you come round and measure my tyres while I'm on and off the bike?
Of course you only needed to ask 😀
I shall return your [s]bike stand[/s]portable road side bike set up device at the same time
Not sure what mine are whatever the pump let me ...will check with guage tonight as i can tell you all care
I think those seatpost/integrated pump combos you find on hybrids ad tourers are am awesome idea, and I don't understand why we don't have them in the MTB and road world.
What about the Airbone ZT-708 Carbonlife pump? It's light, tiny (150mm long) and rated to 160psi.. not sure how true/attainable that is but it certainly has no problems getting road tyres to operating pressures... they do a slightly longer/bigger capacity version too.
Topeak Pocket Rocket DX11 works for me. It's optimised for road bikes and has a smooth and easy action that stays that way even when the pressure is getting high. Takes many, many strokes mind, but it'll get your tyre good and hard. Fnaaarggh fnaaargh, woot!
As others have said 140psi on the road is a waste of time - increased rolling resistance + sliding down the road on your backside in the wet. 140psi on a wooden indoor track yes but road no. 95-105psi is the sweet spot.