Routing stealth dro...
 

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[Closed] Routing stealth dropper in Whyte 909

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I want to fit a Reverb but am slightly daunted by the fully internal cable through the down- and seat-tube, plus the fact it's the first stealth dropper I've had. Any advice as to how to go about it with a Whyte HT frame gratefully received!


 
Posted : 14/05/2018 6:32 pm
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Presume it goes over or under the BB? Take that out , allow enough hose to put it back in. Wait a few weeks then send reverb back for warranty work😉


 
Posted : 14/05/2018 6:35 pm
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There's a hole under the BB tube with the mech and brake cables coming out of. I'll have a fiddle and see what I can get access to. Never had an issue with a Reverb.


 
Posted : 14/05/2018 7:07 pm
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I found it (relatively) easy once I'd removed the crankset and the bottom bracket - hose/cable goes above the BB. The hole under the BB is (as you've seen) for the mech and brake.

Hardest part for me was getting the rubber grommet  at the top of the downtube back in!!! Liberal application  of washing up liquid helps there...

Good luck!!

Rich


 
Posted : 14/05/2018 7:20 pm
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I fitted an Ascent dropper (cable type) to my Whyte 529 a while back.
It sounds like it routes the same way. It was really easy and I had the cranks and all other cables in place. It was only a 10 min job, don't see why the Reverb should be any different.

1. pull the top grommet out and move up out of the way attached to the brake cable

2. Get an old gear cable and attach to the new inner using electrical tape

3. remove the BB mech routing piece

4. Feed cable through top hole and a couple minutes of moving back and forth until the resistant stops and you get the right place. Easier with one pursing feeding the cable and another with a light at the BB, but i did it by myself.

5. Pull through the BB and leave a large loop to feed up through the ST

6. Trim outer to size and remove attached gear cable

7. Bleed


 
Posted : 14/05/2018 7:22 pm
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Rooting was fine on my 901. I still haven't regained the feeling in my fingertips from trying to get the fricking grommets back in though.


 
Posted : 14/05/2018 7:48 pm
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Thanks all. Just took the plastic cover off the BB shell and it looks pretty straightforward once you remove the BB. Whyte are pretty damned sorted bikes. Not looking forward to grommet strain though.


 
Posted : 14/05/2018 9:03 pm
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I've just done one, and didn't take the bb out.  Underneath the bb is the exit for brake and gear cable, with a cover,   I unscrewed this, and then fed half the outer past the bb shell up the seat tube and pushed the other half up the downtube.  Then just navigated the outer out the hole with help from a small screwdriver.  Simples, particularly as I'd had an hour of faff trying to do it other ways.  Oh yeah, on a 901


 
Posted : 14/05/2018 10:54 pm
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Update on this if anyone's interested. Best way I found was to take the BB out because I couldn't push the outer around the BB plastic middle bit and up the seat tube. I cut the outer to the same length as the original one and threaded it through the downtube grommet hole. It took a bit of manoeuvring with a finger to get the cable end past a lip in the frame by the BB hole but it wasn't too tricky.

There's a protective sheath that goes over the outer for around the BB area so I fitted that. Then pushed the rest of the cable up the seat tube. I found it hard to push it right through the top, so I used some long nosed pliers to get the last bit through.

The inside of the frame is pretty rough so the cable will scratch if you move it around too much. But, it's not too much faff doing it this way and I've now got a new cable in place of the OE one, which was linked, causing friction.


 
Posted : 16/06/2018 8:56 am

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