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Hi,
Last night when riding I had sensations through the bars that made me think my headset was loose.
I've checked headset and its fine.
I've got a set of SID RCT3 forks with 120mm travel. I'm pretty sure that the fork seal always used to sit on the 120mm line thats printed on the stanchion, but its now on about 125mm of travel.
There is very little resistance to moving the first 5mm or so, and if you rock the bike back and forwards with the front brake on (as if checking for headset play) I'm pretty sure its this 5mm of travel thats causing the sensation I mentioned above.
Does anyone understand the inner workings of the fork to be able to diagnose a fork issue and remedy? I've serviced an old pair of Reba's, so I'm not adverse to taking them apart, but I have got an XC race on Sunday so ideally have them sorted by then!
Just looked up the end of the left had leg and had expected to see the end of a hex bolt (according to the service manual), but there is no bolt, just empty female thread. At the end of that thread there is the end of an air valve (i poked it with an allen key and heard the release of air).
So it seems like I'm missing a bolt.
Any ideas on spec of the bolt? And does it matter so long as it grips that thread? I'm guessing m6 x 15mm
I take it that its an older SID (not one of the newer Race Day SL / Ultimate ones)?
I'd give TF Tuned / J-Tech etc a quick call and give them the details. They're bound to be able to tell, and hopefully sell you the correct bolt.
Yes, it must be 8 or 10 years old.
Its an m8 bolt. Probably 12mm or so, good idea on phoning around in the morning.
Tf tuned technical advice is very good, just give them a buzz
It sounds a bit like the air shafts are not bolted to the lowers (and the lowers could potentially fall off with your front wheel). I'd be concerned about riding them until you'd got it sorted. The brake side leg should have a nut that threads onto what looks like a metal schrader valve, the other side should have a bolt. If you've lost both of these there's nothing mechanically holding the lowers on. Service kits should have replacements for these for not much but it depends on your fork which kit you need. Also if this has happened you'll have lost the small amount of lubricating oil you have in each leg so it would be advisable to top this up first.
(My understanding as a home mechanic who has serviced various RS forks - please correct me if I'm wrong)
Put the fork serial number in here to find out the model details
doesnt the air valve thread through the lowers and get retained with a nut?
likely to have lost a glug of oil from the lowers too?
Sounds like a good opportunity to take them off and send them for a full service
doesnt the air valve thread through the lowers and get retained with a nut?
likely to have lost a glug of oil from the lowers too?
only if they are the older dual air ones. The solo air shafts also have a valve inside the shaft, but it should have a bolt securing it to the lowers.
M8, about 12-15mm of thread. you'll need a crush washer and retainer too.
Fyi - Dave at RSF Suss carries loads of old spares 😉
If you've been running it with bits missing, wouldn't it be better to get it checked over before your race...
Thanks for replies.
It is properly tightened down via the drive side leg so dont think this missing bolt has had too much of an impact.
I've got a bolt and washer that fits and will order a full service kit that contains a new one with the right washers.
No signs of lost oil, so I'll assume its either not leaked or been missing for ages, and will worry about it after Sunday.
The travel indicated on the leg is still showing about 125mm of travel, but having searched google images I think this is fine.
Also noticed some slight play in lower headset bearing which I think was causing the issue I originally described.