Rockshox Reba SL 26...
 

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[Closed] Rockshox Reba SL 26"; ~2008 - DIY servicing?

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I have a 2008 Specialized Rockhopper Pro, with original Rockshox Reba SL fork (26").

I have never touched anything on this fork in 12 years of usage. I've not used it for anything too extreme and it still seems fine, but must need servicing.

If I don't use the bike for quite some time, it locks up until the first compression/decompression of the fork. It also weeps a little oil every now and then.

Whats the best plan here? I've seen J-Tech charge £165 including bushings (how do I tell if I need bushings?

Otherwise I guess its £100 for a full service with them, but is that overkill on a fork thats 12 years old? By the time I've spent money on postage, its £120...

Can I do a basic DIY oil and seal service that will be just good enough and a lot cheaper? As I say I don't notice any issues when riding the bike, just time to do something about the minor niggles.


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 4:10 pm
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Just change the oil. That will make a huge difference.


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 4:12 pm
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As in this: Seems to be just the lower leg oil?

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/workshop/workshop-how-to-service-rockshox-reba-suspension-forks/

is there oil to change inside the damper/spring units themselves too?


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 5:00 pm
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I'd change the damper oil as well.


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 5:10 pm
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Yes, I have those forks.
Pretty simple to do it, follow the guide from Rockshox.
I'm not sure of it is those forks that need a long allen key, I certainly had to buy a socket set allen head bit to get one set of forks apart a few years ago.


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 6:03 pm
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If you’re fairly mechanically adept it’s a straightforward service, I wouldn’t buy a seal kit just clean and overhaul and change the oil. You’ll only need 2 bottles of oil (5w&15w) a tub of stendec grease, Allen keys, circlip pliers, 24mm flat socket or an adjustable wrench and some care, and if they’re QR15mm a long reach 10mm socket.

If you need to buy all that stuff and don’t fancy doing it yourself just pay for a service, you won’t get a new straight steerer Reba now and if you buy one second hand it will probably need a service so it’s still not bad money to spend especially if youre still riding the bike and haven’t done them for over 10 years!


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 6:49 pm
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Thanks for the replies.

Nickdavies I have all those tools.

I'll need the oil

I have LM grease and bearing grease, will one of those do?

My friend suggested leaving the damper oil alone as you have to be very accurate with it.

Will have a read of the manual though and take that decision.

A fair bit of experience with bicycles but not suspension. But a lot of car/motorbike experience.


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 10:00 pm
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Had a good look at the manual.

Only thing I don't have is a shock pump.

Think I'll buy the two weights of oil, specific grease unless you advise I can use LM grease.

Seems to make sense to get the dust and foam seals for £15 too, especially as I've seen oil on the stanchions.

I think I'll just pull the spring and damper units and change the oils, rather than strip/rebuild each unit, as I feel it won't be necessary with the usage it's had and will get.

If I see anything ugly looking I'll deal with it.


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 10:33 pm
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Id buy the correct grease, lm grease would be a no no, you dont want lithium grease in there - stendec is sillicon based to work with the rubber o-rings/seals.

Foam seals i tend to clean once and change every other service, as you say you may as well change them, dust wipers are a pain to change without the right tool in my experience. Bit of pvc pipe helps press them in.

I tend to strip the whole lot even if im not changing all the o-rings, just clean and grease the old ones unless theres obvious migration or problems. If your holding air ok then you should be ok just doing a lower lube and change the damper fluid.

As its an oem fork i would say just check the serial number on the crown for the date, ive done reba’s circa that generation that have been off on model year, i.e. your 2008 fork might be a 2007, just check the oil volume charts, Ive had it before where i had the wrong year and the oil volume changed. 2007/2008 reba are both 110ml of 5wt damper / 15ml 15wt lowers so you should be fine, but 2009 is 123ml 5wt / 10ml 15wt ao its worth checking if youre not sure of the exact year.


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 11:06 pm
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Thanks man, not sure LM grease denotes lithium. I was taught it is 'Light Machine Grease' not sure of it's composure but will make sure I get the right stuff.

Will pull the fork off the bike and check serial.

I don't have a shock pump, will this suffice?

https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/30960/products/topeak-microshock-shock-pump.aspx


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 11:11 pm
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Just googled the grease, you are correct!


 
Posted : 04/05/2020 11:12 pm
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So I took the fork off, which had been sat upside down with the rest of the bike.

Only concern is some oil migrating out of the 'compression' adjuster on the top of the right fork leg? Is this normal after the fork has been upside down for a while?


 
Posted : 05/05/2020 1:28 pm
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Shouldn’t really be passing but I wouldn’t worry about it. Could be oil from somewhere else so just do your service and see how it is after.

The seals in the top of the adjuster are a pain to do and not part of the standard service kit - I had one leak like that and sorting it was more hassle than it was worth given you can just store the bike upright.


 
Posted : 05/05/2020 5:12 pm
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After speaking with TF Tuned, I made the decision to send them the fork. It'll cost a little more, but I want it all working properly, and by the time I've bought the extra parts to fix that leak it'll be more or less the cost of them doing everything.

Also then I don't need to buy a shock pump immediately, and next time I'll just change the lower oil myself.


 
Posted : 05/05/2020 6:41 pm

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