[Closed] Rockshox RCT3 lockout? Anyone invented something yet..?

? you just reach down 12" at most and twiddle a knob..

What if your knob is longer?

Don't bounce up and down do much when you are riding? 😉

? you just reach down 12" at most and twiddle a knob..

My bike skills are obviously lacking, but i find twiddling the knob whilst covering rocky ground quickly gives me certain issues, namely ending up in a heap on the floor...

Unfortunately, my knob isn't the longest so I have to bounce up and down a bit more when riding... 😉

If it's rocky enough that you fall off don't lock it out. And use the LSC dial better.

Why would you want to lock out on rocky terrain?.

Why would you want to lock out on rocky terrain?.

Cos I forget to unlock it after the not as rocky bit!

as above, never lock it out, leave it wide open, set your sag and use the LSC dial to stop bob and brake dive and rejoice in suspension doing what it is meant to. then you never have to worry about forgetting to unlock it.

I only ever used the threshold instead of the lockout, means I could climb without bobbing and then if I forgot to turn it off it would blow off on big hits anyway.

as above, never lock it out, leave it wide open, set your sag and use the LSC dial to stop bob and brake dive and rejoice in suspension doing what it is meant to. then you never have to worry about forgetting to unlock it.

Dumb Q:

Does the LSC dial affect the threshold in the mid-position? Or is it compression adjustment only when wide open?

Or both?

so worth it for the rapid rebound...amazing, well done rockshox

I can't get the LSC to a point where it would replace lockout. It does very little for me in open mode. This is on an SID not a pike, I've always been on and off the lockout on a hard tail. Quick sprints uphill etc it's loads better locked. Just wondering if it was remote able.

I'm not convinced the fork is working as it should though, maybe the LSC should work better.

i never understood the point of lockouts, they stop suspension working, reducing tyre contact as the wheel skips off rocks and roots and therefore grip and control is reduced. I don't get why you would want to do that?

I'll only ever use the lockout on my RLT Revelation if I think I may need to be out of the saddle and climbing on long fire road bits, the threshold is dialled in about half way, so if I inadverdently forget they are " locked" they will still blow open for hits on the next down.
My fork was bought at a great price from CRC in one of their deals a few years ago and the lockout levers and cables gave me back about £60 when I sold them !

I don't think RS offer the RCT3 damper with a remote as that's the whole point of the "Threshold" setting no need to keep turning lockout on or off.

You'll have to either drop down to the RLT damper which comes with a cable operated remote option or go for the XX damper which offers the hydraulic remote.

Or maybe have a chat to a suspension tuner to see if they can modify the RCT3 damper to take a return spring allowing you to use a RLT remote. I find Loco is usually more open to talk about hacks like these. TF tuned tend to always play by the book in my experience.

Take a fine drill bit to the lockout lever and then thread the cable through it, attach the rest of the lockout mechanism to the fork somehow. Basically use a remote lockout from another a rear shock to do something like this.

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People have bodged rear lockouts for Monarchs, so don't think this would be to hard.

See

Does the LSC dial affect the threshold in the mid-position? Or is it compression adjustment only when wide open?

Or both?

yes, try it

I used to have some Revelations with lock out on my old hard tail and used it LOADS. Not all of my riding is 100% off-road and sometimes it's good to get out of the saddle on the road/smooth sections of uphill in between the off-road bits. In that scenario locked out forks are better than the best suspension forks.

Never had it locked out off road

Take a fine drill bit to the lockout lever and then thread the cable through it, attach the rest of the lockout mechanism to the fork somehow. Basically use a remote lockout from another a rear shock to do something like this.

Ahh a reply on topic..! 😉

That's what I was thinking but there's no spring in the damper. Hadn't thought about some kind of external spring cos theres nowhere really to fix it to. Might have to be a Loco question or just an XX damper.

The XX damper is a little bit crappy, if you can't work out how to attach the external spring..... how about a piezoelectric motor, linked to a lightish battery and a small controller board? Wouldn't be that hard to waterproof the entire thing, main thing would be the programming but it wouldn't be so hard to teach yourself to do that and I'm sure there would be others who'd do it for fun.

I'd be tempted to help you, although I'm only a beginner with programming. **** knows why no one produces after market kits for stuff like this, considering the amount of other aftermarket useless crap that seem to sell pretty well.

**** knows why no one produces after market kits for stuff like this,

Because

a) A lot of people find a well set up fork doesn't require lockout

b) The people who do use a lockout find its easy enough to just reach down and twiddle a knob

c) For the small minority of people who do want a lock out with a remote the manufacturers find its much easier and cheaper to just use a spring, cable and a mechanical lever.

I'm a fan of electronics and would like to see more used on bike but only in genuinely useful situations. I don't like to see electronics just used for the sake of it.

What uses are there for electronics on mountainbikes other than power meters and suspension? We don't need stability control, ABS or traction control.

I think active suspension might be a viable use of electronics but to use electronics just for a remote lockout seems a bit silly.

Set to whatever feels great on the trail and descending, forget about adjustable modes, don't touch it and just ride.