[Closed] Rockshox Monarch Plus RC3 knocking/clunk at 20% sag in open mode

I think unless you open it up yourself and do a rebuild you're going to have to send it to someone for at least a full service. Might be worth calling someone like Slick and Slide (01625 704704), TFT etc.. and checking that a full service will cure the issue.

I had it a few times and got fed up in the end, went out and purchased a Fox X2

I have no issues taking it apart and rebuilding it if that is the solution, I just don't want to waste money on parts if that not going to sort the issue.

Its a weird one because it was fine the last time I rode the bike but it is suddenly doing it now

I had this, send it back to.rock shox they can fix direct now, well through a lbs they did for mine. 150 cost.

I would strip it and check for damage, if its ok then I would order a service kit and rebuild.

You could always just change the oil and bleed it if you want a quick check without spending money

If its got a scored shaft then its not normally cost effective to repair, if its got a scored damper body or IFP reservoir I would cost up parts to repair v a complete shock.

Mine does this when there's air in the oil, really easy to take apart and service yourself or just change the oil.

Out of interest is it on a Specialized bike?

Cheers for the replies guys! Might strip it down and change the oil and if that sorts it order all the seals etc.

71stu it does sound like there could be air in there, it’s gone a bit squelchy.

It’s a giant trance

There shouldn't be any damage. The shock will need a rebuild as it has lost oil from inside the damper body and probably some ifp pressure and the knock you are experiencing is the piston inside the damper body meeting the oil when compressed. The piston should be totally immersed in oil but in this case when fully extended there is an air gap and when you sit on the bike and the piston travels down wards inside the damper body it travels freely until it meets the oil this Is the clunk.

Mine was like that, I bought a seal kit and rebuilt it. Now I just change the oil every few months. I had been running a coil shock but since I rebuilt the monarch spending time to bleed it properly, I much prefer it to the coil.

Stripped it down, gave it a bleed and greased the seals and its fixed the issue. Now I know its fixed the problem I think I'll get a full service kit and rebuild it properly.

Cheers guys!

Make sure you inspect the reservoir for internal damage of the anodising, the IFP has been known to eat into it and that can cause problems.

Does this kind of thing happen with Monarch Debonair RL (not Plus)?

I've got an occasional knock somewhere, and not sure if it's the shock, but it's not on full compression, more on the release after compression especially on rapid movement over rough stuff but where it's had fair bit of compression in the process (like dropping onto rooty descent). It could be something else, like clattering chain but feels more like a solid knock.

Gets an air can service regular-ish, but not done more than that. Does have a bit of a squishy sound to it, though feels good otherwise.

Do think of just changing the shock though for something nicer, though the non-Plus Monarch is surprisingly good, and also unsure if a Plus is really justified for my SC 5010 and what I ride (or maybe a CC DB Inline but heard issues with them. Do have a DB Air on my old Nomad and love that, but it's too big for the 5010 and probably OTT).

DeadKenny, Get a Cane Creek IL air on that bike. Performance will be night and day compared to that shock.

Yeah, but the issues people have with the IL... 🤷‍♂️

As I say, I like the CC DB Air, though I was surprised by the Monarch that it tracks the ground fairly well, good small bump feel, while agile at popping off also which is something I liked about the DB Air. The Monarch is a much better shock than the various Fox ones I've had in the past.

Other thing is servicing CCs. My DB Air on the old Nomad has actually never been serviced to my shame, though it's not had a major amount of use as the bike got demoted to rare use when I got the 5010. I'd do an air can service but from what I gather you can't get the kits and has to be sent off, which puts me off buying another as I don't want to be spending a significant cost of the shock on basic servicing and there's the turnaround time.

On with my rebuild now; everything was going fine until I noticed oil coming from the compression lever while trying to bleed the damper. I've taken it lever apart but for the life of me I can figure out whats wrong! There isn't an O-ring in there that can/needs to be changed and the service manual doesn't have anything in it about the compression lever. It wasn't doing it when I bled the oil last week to see if that fixed the knocking issue I had; although I wouldn't rule out this being how the air got in there in the first place.

Anyone have any ideas?

Had two Monarch RT3's do the same thing. Another load of badly designed junk SRAM should not have unleashed on the market!

Compression assembly seal.

Think I may have found my issue!

Make sure you inspect the reservoir for internal damage of the anodising, the IFP has been known to eat into it and that can cause problems.

Mine had a clunk, strangely only noticed it after I changed the pivot bearings. I have just got it back from being checked / serviced and it has had a new IFP and a new piggy back thing. I miss the old one as it had a nice orange sticker on it 😀. Not re-fitted it yet.

All put back together and working, I think.

I replaced the damper body because it had quite a few scratches and looked a bit worn after 4 years on the outside but the inside of the damper body also had quite a lot of ware on it.

My concern is I took the new damper body back off when I was trying to fix the bleed issue and noticed there was already a little wear mark from fitting.

Anyone have any ideas what may be causing it?