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Brand new set of Rebas, and even with the Maxle so tight i need two hands to undo it the wheel is wobbling considerably - about 4-5mm. Theres no foriegn objects on the maxle or the ends of the hub.
I can only think the thread in the fork isnt deep enough but that doesn't sit right with me somehow, becuase the ,axle could just exit out of ot the other end.
Any ideas?
Did you buy a boost fork by mistake?
Hub right? Not sure I've seen them clamp it 4mm before, most are a snug fit to start
I was going to ask has an adaptor fallen out but the above is more likely...
Fwiw, wheel has been on my other bike, with the same model year reba, no issues...
What hubs are they?
Measure the space between the fork on both. How do you know it's the same?
IF it's a normal / non-boost maxle fork of same spec as your other one then I can't help but think "manufacturing fault" OR "bit of hub fallen off".
Have you measured in between the drop-outs?
Have you swapped the axle off the other fork into the new one?
Have you tried the wheel back in the other fork where you know it fitted before to confirm you haven't lost a bit of wheel in between?
Kinesis, Ix9 wheelset.
Out of interest i just swapped maxles. The "old" one needs less tightening - one hand firm on the scale of things - before it clamps the wheel but i did nick the corner of the gap in the collar of that one previously, so its due for replacement and i was going for a mt zoom axle.
The "new" maxle works fine on the other bike, so its the hub or the new fork. Cant be bothered unlocking eveythimg to swap wheels now, ill try tomorrow.
My natural paranoia has kicked in. I assumed evans had just made a speeling mistake in the title, by if you google it loads more shops have too.
https://www.evanscycles.com/rockshox-reba-rl-solo-air-120mm-tampered-29-fork-EV249930
So, what is a "tampered" fork? 🙂
Rs made the mistake then and they just loaded the products on to the site?
but i did nick the corner of the gap in the collar of that one previously
Funny you should say that the edges in the cut-out on my maxle are well chewed up after pretty light use.
For something that gets a fair amount of pressure to tighten and loosen the axle regularly it's a flimsy bit of construction (just 1.5mm-2mm thick I'd guess). Personally I'd be as happy with / would like a 15mm axle that just took a 6mm or 8mm allen key fitting and get rid of the QR bit on the end.
Then you would need pinch bolts or clamps for the axle, the expanding cam gets away from that. You don't need to do them super tight so no need to be forcing it.
You do in my case.
I'll be getting the mt zoom ones anyway - no qr there.
Then you would need pinch bolts or clamps for the axle, the expanding cam gets away from that. You don't need to do them super tight so no need to be forcing it.
It never seemed to me that the cam bit did anything apart from hold the lever end out of the way. So your post and a quick internet faff tells me there's a tension adjuster hidden in the end that I might need to have a play with.
Notwithstanding that the rear axle on my bike (12mm) gets everything tight using torque from the handle (no cam) and a split conical washer thing (similar to what the cam must activate).
Every day's a school day...
In the cold light of day I've found the issue, by comparing the two rebas. In my new reba which remains difficult to tighten in all/multiple configurations, I can see that the thread for the maxle is not situated at the "end" of the hole its pressed/glued into, leaving a 0.5mm ridge between it and the outer surface of the fork.
Hence, the maxle is reaching its natural end in the thread before the QR side is mated onto the fork.
Now, I could send the fork back, If I hadn't cut the steerer already... 😐
The maxles do work, its just that I need to have caution with the tightening as the are so tight I worry about rounding the edges of the collar and not being able to undo them, something I suspect will be lessened with a non-QR screw in axle as it only relies on an allen key.
Kryton
I only spotted it from mikewsmith's post but have you adjusted the cam to see if that helps? Sorry if you've already got this covered but it was news to me. 😳
Its so obvious when someone points it out that I'm cross with myself that I never noticed it before (and not helped by it coming from the shop with it wrongly adjusted when I bought the bike) but with the cam open there's a 2.5mm Allen key head in the end of the axle. In my case about 5clicks to the right and the cam now works like it should have done when it left the shop. 👿
I have thanks, its not the cam thats the issue, its getting the maxle all the way through that is.
Now, I could send the fork back, If I hadn't cut the steerer already
You can still send them back, it's a manufacturing defect. If you had simply changed your mind about the fork then yeah it'd be too late, but if they are made wrongly then send them back. It's not your fault, it's entirely theirs.
So, what is a "tampered" fork?
On that's had an expensive finishing process applied at their specialist facility in Finland.
Could it be that you have a "boost" spec maxle on a non boost fork?
Personally I'd be as happy with / would like a 15mm axle that just took a 6mm or 8mm allen key fitting and get rid of the QR bit on the end.
Agreed, Maxle Stealth or the Mt Zoom offerings (or Carbon Ti if you want to waste loads of money) are far better.
Kryton - send them back. They're clearly ****ed.
They tighten fine with the older maxle not even tightened excessivley, and even if a mt zoom needed excessive tightening that could be fixed with an extra washer to fill space if necessary.
. Not sure i can be bothered with all the boxing and postage formthe sake of a washer.
Had this problem as well went to a maxle stealth and the problem has gone. Evans replaced the original maxle under warranty.
Yup, thats worked for me also.
Kryton is the stealth/(free?) Xcracer one good? thinking of ordering one over the weekend.
Well, it fits, its light - mines 33g on the kitchen digital scales, it looks like a cnc through axle, and it uses a 6mm allen key which i have on my V10. I havent ridden it but will do Sunday so as lomg as it doesnt snap i dont know whats not to like.
Its the Mt zoom one i have. I've a feeling ill being gettiing F&R for my race bike for xmas, ive currently no reason to change that.
I did confer with Njee a while ago before i purchased and he did confirm reliability over long term, although he only weighs about 6st of course. 🙂
Please, I'm 7 stone these days 😉
Definitely think Allen bolt through axles are better, I've had a Maxle Stealth for about 18 months, and apart from meaning you have to have a 6mm Allen key with you at all times they're far better IMO. The rear Mt Zoom one beats the Trek one into a cocked hat too - you can do them up tighter with less effort, they weigh less and they cost less. Utter no brained IMO.
I like the DT Swiss RWS axle stuff. Bit like using an Allen key but tool free with the lever on the end.
Though just noticed they now do this which lets you use it tool free or an Allen key.
https://www.dtswiss.com/Components/RWS/Plug-In-RWS-Thru-axle-front