 You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Just taken receipt of my rocketmax. Some bike. Climbs, descends, jumps, pedals better than the bike it's replacing. Class.
However, not surprisingly, I think the lyrik ultimate is dry from factory. Oil's on order to do a quick lowers service. When I serviced my girlfriends revelation a while ago, when trying to tap out the damper using a T handle allen key, rubber mallet and the red aluminium rebound bolt that sits in that side I managed to destroy the bolt before I could shift the damper out. Oops.
To get round this, I took the steel bolt out the air side and put it in the damper side, then the damper came apart from the lowers side no bother.
Is this a bad thing to do? I am probably overthinking it but I really don't want to wreck the fork as soon as I've got it!
Thanks in advance!
Bumping to make this show in the main forum
Sounds sensible. Can't see this method causing an issue so long as the threads are the same. I've always used a punch and metal hammer to tap them free and had no issues.
Awesome, thanks for the reassurance!
Sounds fine. I undo the bolt 1 turn at most, give it a clonk, then repeat until it comes free.
Rockshox are great for online support and not needing a million specific tools, shame my new bike has Fox forks (won't even mention the Lefty on the winter bike!).
Suspension is the last thing I've properly touched on a bike as I was always quite intimidated by it.
This was until I pulled a Yari completely apart and rebuilt it after a lowers respray. They are really easy to work on and now I've got something nice and custom (mostly by my own hands).
echoing above, I only free the bolts up two turns before I get to whacking. After that, it's a bit at a time until the air spring and damper are free.
Ok, thanks for the tips, I'll try this when oil gets here
I did the same on exactly the same fork as you have - just a turn or 2 then a knock to free it. Wasn't a problem. I would think especially with a new or fairly new fork it should all go as per instructions. Probably due another lowers service actually.
The small amount of oil for lubrication on the spring side made a difference to mine. Perhaps dry from factory. It also freed up a bit over a few months of riding I think.