Rock Shox service a...
 

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[Closed] Rock Shox service at home 1st attempt

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Hi all, I have a Sektor TK OE fork from 2013, 140mm travel. I want to attempt a home service just to keep it in good shape, but I am struggling to find service manuals or videos. Nothing that i can see on SRAM website, but I have found this and it seems to cover it but really not sure…?

If it's correct, are there any other tips for a service at home? What do I need? Will I end up destroying the fork and getting oil everywhere?

Thanks in advance


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 7:17 am
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Take it slow and methodical. Remember the order you remove things. If you can't remember place the items in little zip lock bags or similar and thread them in order of removal along a length of wire or a rod of some sort. Maybe take a few pics if it doesn't resemble the manual or you're uncertain. Take it easy on the torque settings on reassembly.

And enjoy it!


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 7:26 am
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Don't bash the valve with a metal hammer - if you've not get a rubber mallet get one first. The shaft is made of cheese.

Don't leave the nut half on that valve shaft and bash that instead - the nut's even softer and will distort, rendering it useless, before the internals free up


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 7:52 am
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ok this is good prgress. i have two rubber mallets infact!


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 8:05 am
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Search YouTube for SRAM service. Nice videos show you how to do it. With the correct tools it's fairly simple...


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 9:30 am
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Search YouTube for SRAM service. Nice videos show you how to do it. With the correct tools it's fairly simple...


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 9:31 am
 Crag
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Sram's website has loads of good technical data on how to do it yourself.

https://www.sram.com/service/include-archived/rockshox/7,434

If its just a lower leg service then it's pretty straightforward and you don't need any specific tools.


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 9:48 am
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There was a good video on TF Tuned web site on doing a lowers service, but they've updated the site and can't find it.

Depends what you want to do. Most of the time you just need to do the lowers, which is dead easy. Just replacing the seals takes a bit of effort. Getting new ones in is either a bodge job or use the proper tool (an expensive bit of plastic). Other than that you just need allen key and a rubber mallet. Worth getting some clean rags and some IPA also.

Uppers are not that hard either, just you need the right size tools to unscrew the top nuts to pull the mechanisms out to clean up. Need the kit of seals to refresh them in the air mechanism if it's air, though they might not need doing. And plenty of shock oil for the damper side.

You'll need to check the official SRAM manual for the exact fork to find out what grade of oil and how much. Note that lower lube is different grade to the stuff in the uppers, and a much smaller amount.

TF Tuned have a kit for the lowers that includes the seals and lube required for specific forks.


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 9:52 am
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mrbelowski - Member
Don't leave the nut half on that valve shaft and bash that instead - the nut's even softer and will distort, rendering it useless, before the internals free up

That's what TF do, I'm sure almost all repair shops do, and SRAM say in their manuals.

If by 'nut' you mean the two nuts on the end you undo with an allen key. Obviously you've removed the rebound adjuster, as you can't undo the nut otherwise. That just pulls off (or has fallen off on the trail).

Always check what the manual says though, some models are different.


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 10:06 am
 LoCo
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use a 6 sided deep socket placed on the nut to hit to release the stud from the lowers šŸ˜‰


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 10:24 am
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i guess thats the thing, i can't find the manual. will keep looking. thanks so far


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 11:00 am
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Even with the use of rubber mallets or sockets, nothing should need more than a sharp tap really, rather than a full on whack, if that makes sense ? !

Compare pics from the SRAM PDF with what you have in front of you.

I was similarly concerned first time I stripped my Revelation down, but it all made sense and three more services and over 2500 miles on, still run like new.


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 11:04 am
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If it's just the lower leg service they are all pretty much the same, if it's the full service you should be able to follow the Recon Gold manual, I think.

Don't rush, put some plastic sheeting down on the floor.

When reassembling, take care when refitting the stanchions into the lowers to make sure you don't damage the seals.


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 11:13 am
 Crag
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2011 manual

Not sure how much different the 2013 ones are but I can't imagine they differ wildly.


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 11:19 am
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i think i'm gonna go for a lower leg
service first. take apart, clean, put back together. i just take it apart and clean it right? no oil to replace, no seals..?

saturday night sorted whoop whoop


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 11:20 am
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You need alcohol for the cleaning, lint free cloths or industrial type blue paper roll, kitchen paper will work if you don't have anything else.

You can't save the lower leg lube, one of the main reasons for the service is to change this oil as it is contaminated.

You don't need to change seals, unless they are worn or damaged, which you inspect when you have them apart.


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 11:31 am
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ok i see.. make sense sorry was not a not an especially intelligent question...! just pretty nervous about trashing them.

found this video that look pretty good


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 12:04 pm
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Had a quick look but not watched the video, I'm sure it covers it all.

Clean the fork first, you don't want to get crap from outside on the inside.

All the fancy bits are fitted inside the CSU legs. Basically there is some oil just sitting in the lowers to keep all the sliding lubed. The lower leg service is to clean any crap out of the seals, and foam rings if fitted, and change the oil.

Take your time, don't get frustrated and gain a better understanding of how your forks work.


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 12:19 pm
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If doing seals, nice guide with pictures. Though for boxxer, but it's roughly similar.

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-RockShox-BoXXer-Seal-Replacement-2012.html

You might have a foam oil ring rather than seal below the wiper seal itself. Depends on the fork.


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 12:49 pm
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this is great thanks all really appreciated. now to get some oil and some of that red gunk for the seals.


 
Posted : 07/08/2014 12:56 pm

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