Looking for a wheelset for road rides on the MTB. So need to be narrow for narrow slick tyres, and need 15x110 and 12x148 hub spacing.
Anyone know of anything cheap?
See if you can find some DT swiss 370 IS hubbed road/gravel wheels then run an MRP better boost and lindarts boostinstor on them. Will need a slight redish but both those kits are proper end cap jobs so the disc rotors and cassette end up in the correct place. I think Santa Cruz gravel bikes come with a suitable set (370 hubs and WTB i23 rims. Bet loads of those will be up for sale.
Although it wasn't the reason to post the suggestion I think I may have the bits to do something like the above.
The axle sizes you’re after aren’t use for road or gravel, it’s 12x100 F and 12x142 R. Either find yourself some lightweight 29er wheels (same 622 ERTO rim size) or talk to a wheel builder about building you up something.
Due to hub sizing issues I'd just look for some unfashionably skinny rimmed XC wheels and stick some road tyres on them
Wolftooth "Boostinator" axle adaptors are a great solution to make older wheels work with Boost. Rear- dont a spavce the cassette side like Hope do with their adaptors, it ruins the chain line. re-dishing a non boost wheel adapted to boost with an axle spacer disc side actually improves the dish (of course tou need to space the disc and use longer bolts aswell, there come in the kit.
I wrote this to explain to a mate:
"Boostinator
It's great to be able to continue to use non boost wheels and actually they end up nicely dished when adapted the preferred way (which involves minor re-dishing).
I've done this with both front and rear, both Hope and DT hubs using Wolftooth Boostinator kits.
Once done you'd think the hub was made that way.
Wolftooth Boostinator in more expensive than some, true, but a proper machined end-cap specific to your axle is surely worth it. e.g. https://tinyurl.com/woltoothHR
plus - I hate the idea of loose e-bay spacers to get lost when the wheel's off trailside and make wheel fitting more fiddly.
REAR:
Got a boost frame and want an old non boost rear wheel to fit, here's what I think:
If Wolftooth make the Boostinator kit for your wheel (they do for at least DT & Hope) go for it.
What are the advantages of the "need to re-dish" rear kits?
[Just one 6mm axle spacer for disc side and disc is also spaced 6mm, so kit also includes longer bolts, no adjustment to axle spacing on cassette side]:
A rear boost hub is 6mm wider, all that width has been added to the disc side of the hub.
1: Chainline with "need to re-dish" rear kit:
The cassette position stays the same as with a proper boost wheel so Chainline is unchanged, also if you're running 2 sets of wheels, with one set adapted and one set boost then there's no need to reset the derailleur when swopping. Nice
2: Wheel dish with "need to re-dish" rear kit:
Since a rear wheel has a very “flat” bracing angle on the drive side spokes, then re-dishing (only about 1.5 nipple turns) is actually improving the “dish” and, therefore, improving wheel strength because the "dish" is improved by 6mm.
IF you want to move one rear wheel between 2 bikes, one bike's boost one not, then that changes. The kits with washers both sides / i.e. no re-dish version makes that easier for sure.
FRONT:
Got a boost fork and want an old non boost front wheel to fit then these kits are vital.
If Wolftooth make the Boostinator kit for your wheel (DT/Hope) that's even better IMO, because it has the full endcap and no fiddly spacers to drop off.
A front boost hub is 10mm wider, all that width is added to the non disc side of the hub.
So, what's the advantage of the "need to re-dish" front version
[just one 10mm longer end-cap (or axle spacer) for the non disc side], no disc spacer :
Better wheel dish with "need to re-dish" front kit:
Since a front non boost wheel has a very “flat” bracing angle on the disc side spokes, it's actually improving the “dish” and, therefore, improving wheel strength to use a kit that requires re-dishing. Because the dish is improved by 10mm (well, 5mm technically).
Note on front disc position, it ends up the same with either kit:
With a "need to re-dish" front kit fitted (such as Wolftooth), the disc position is unaltered on the hub, it's in the same position as it always was relative to the calliper, which is also same position the disc on a genuine boost front wheel, the caliper doesn’t need to move.
The "non re-dish" front kits that use a 5mm washer each end of the axle add a 5mm disc spacer to keep it in the same position relative to the calliper too. I dint like doing it that way.
IF you want to move one front wheel between 2 bikes, one bike's boost one not, then that changes. The non re-dish version makes that easier for sure. re-dishing every swop would be a pain.
seems complicated doesn’t it
it's not when you do it.
I’m not sure why you’d want to do this?
I’d just put some fast rolling MTB tyres on some XC rims. It’s more comfortable and almost as fast.
How narrow slicks are you looking to run? I think your best bet is mtb boost hubs with 28 spokes and a narrow xc rim probably.
Only thing to check is that the rim can take road pressures - especially if you are wanting to run tubeless.
Just thinking aloud if you can find 24 hole mtb hubs (not sure if this is a thing) then Hunt 4 seasons road rims could do a job and might not be too expensive. Think they’re made by Kinlin
Just get some lightweight slicks for the existing wheels, or spare wheels if you have any.
Due to hub sizing issues I’d just look for some unfashionably skinny rimmed XC wheels and stick some road tyres on them
Bingo, this is what i've done.
For a while i had the same size hubs and rims on CX, Gravel and MTB. So a set of large road tyres (28s that measure up at 30-32) for road use, 35s for gravel/CX playing (have a different set of wheels for racing) and some 2.2's for MTB.
All on the same wheels (Crest on Hope IIRC).
Superstar have Wtb i23 rims with 24 holes and v3 front hubs in boost with 24 holes. Could make a cheap wheelset out of that combo. Suggests £40 per rim and £40 for the front hub but I think there’s a 70% off code you could use on the rims.
Rear hubs I think the dt swiss 350 comes in 24 hole. Hope Pro 4 doesn’t from what I can see - but the pro 5 does (but spendy).
Bitex have a 24h boost rear hub (link below) and I expect they have a 24h front if matching is something that worries you. I’ve a mate running a Bitex rear hub - few years in and all still working well. I’ve got a front that about 1.5 years old and also still smooth. Also had the bonus I could get the front with torque caps to go with rockshox forks.
https://bitexhubs.co.uk/product/bx211r-boost-rear/
Just pickup some ACI double butted spokes and that wouldn’t be a bad wheelset:
£126 rear hub (Bitex)
£40 front hub (Superstar V6)
Depending on if the discount code works either £80 for rims or £24 (Wtb i23 - Superstar)
£30 for spokes (probably higher than actual but I haven’t checked) - ACi double butted from Cyclebasket.
Works out a cheap wheelset that.
1. Go to LBS
2. Tell them the hub/rim combo you want
3. Go back to LBS a week or so later and collect your perfect wheel combo
4. Be proud that you’re supporting your local high street and the livelihood of a fellow cyclist
Or is that too obvious and old skool?
If you want to reap the benefits of a road wheel set up on a MTB you'll have to throw a huge chainring on the front too, so you may as well just chuck on some slick MTB tyres.
If you ran 35c slicks / file tread with a 32/10 you'll spin out in no time.
1. Go to LBS
2. Tell them the hub/rim combo you want
3. Go back to LBS a week or so later and collect your perfect wheel combo
4. Be proud that you’re supporting your local high street and the livelihood of a fellow cyclistOr is that too obvious and old skool?
Depends on the LBS, a lot of those i used to use in the UK would do one of five things
1) suck their teeth and say there's no demand for handbuilt wheels, we don't do them.
2) try to offer you something prebuilt from mavic or DT swiss instead, that doesn't meet any of your requirements, other than the diameter.
3) try and fob you off with cheaper hubs, rims and straight gauge spokes, because that's all they hold in stock.
4) charge you full RRP for every single component (including 3 quid per spoke) and then £200+ to build them (possibly even doing it well. If you're lucky). Despite the supplier punting them out direct to customer with a 40% discount.
5) actually do the job you're asking at a reasonable price and quality.
DCR wheels in Lewes East Sussex are ace and build well to a price.
Hunt have got some lightweight XC wheels on sale. I've just ordered a set for a similar purpose to what you've described 👍
Alternatively, look for a second hand road bike on Facebook/gumtree/eBay
Something like a btwin triban 3 or 5 will most likely cost you less, and be faster and more comfortable for road rides.
E.G.
If you ran 35c slicks / file tread with a 32/10 you’ll spin out in no time.
Downhill yes but just coast. On flat then 32/10 at 90RPM gets you 24mph which I would say is a VERY good speed for an MTB to be holding. If you ride around at 24mph on flat (even on a fast road bike) then you are in a very small group of people which I am guessing the OP is not.
Look for some DT X1700 wheels. 350 hubs and narrow rims with your hub widths. It's what I did. I'm thinking I could do with some wider rims on mine now though.