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Has anyone used an StVZO light, specifically the Cateye GVolt 80? I’ve used an exposure axis light for a while, but it’s time for a new battery, so I was thinking of anew light, and really like the idea of the German standard.
i usually ride through the winter, and am normally out at 6am, so need a reasonable battery’s life. My usual route is lumpy so I need enough light to descend comfortably at speed.
The other option is the B&M IXON space 150lux, but I have never actually seen one in stock anywhere, ever.
I run a Supernova Airstream as a bar-mounted road light, which has the German beam cut-off. I can't comment on the two lights you're looking at, but in general terms it's brilliant not being caught between the two extremities of either dazzling oncoming drivers (and other cyclists) or having to angle the beam so far down to avoid this that it becomes near useless. It's brighter than you'd expect from the specifications, but...
... not as bright as the Exposure Strada that I also run. That's not a bad compromise thanks to having a flattened oval beam, so if you angle it slightly down and off to the left, it's not too distracting.
The Airstream's kind of Joystick sized, so I also run it as an on-road addition on mtb night rides which take in stretches of road.
I don't know if that's any help. I like the German-style cut-off beam, but for me, the outright lack of brightness reduces its usefulness at fast road speesds. Same is true of the Philips Saferide bike light.
Can't comment on the Cateye specifically but lights with a proper beam pattern do a much better job of illuminating the road, as the brightest part of the beam is immediately below the cut-off, and so hitting the road furthest from you. This gives a nice even illumination over a large area of road.
I used a modified Philips Saferide, putting out a few more lumens than standard and running off a large external battery. The net result is like decent dipped beam on a car: it's enough to see by, but you can see more with main beam, which is why I also have a switchable "main beam" light.
I've been using the fettled Saferide for 5 years now, and as far as I can tell there's still nothing on the market that combines decent batteries, modern LEDs and a proper lens. Specialised made a couple of models, but the reviews weren't great. The B&M looks promising if you can actually buy it.
I have a GVolt50 as winter back up for my B&M dynamo light. The beam is a slightly unusual cross shape, but it does the job. The GVolt50 replaced a stolen Ixon Core, which was very good, and had a better beam patttern, in my opinion.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lightinglighting-usb/busch-muller-ixon-space-iq2-front-usb-light/
Website says its in stock.
German sites all saying either 10 weeks or date unknown. A US based alternative https://www.outboundlighting.com
They *claim* the road light meets STVZO criteria, but they haven't applied for certification because they see no advantage to them. American friends who've bought one have been impressed.
I use a Gvolt 80. Not as nice a beam as a decent dynamo light, but much better than a non-road beam. If you get the beam angle just right, it will light a good distance ahead. I like that German lights don’t have any flashing modes so you never find yourself in sudden total darkness when cycling through the lighting modes (I nearly hit a tree because of this a couple of years ago...)
I used a modified Philips Saferide, putting out a few more lumens than standard and running off a large external battery.
Just wondering how you modded the Saferide. I have one here and I vaguely remember having plans to increase the output, but I can't remember any of the details bar a vague plan to hook it up to a Lumicycle battery. I suspect spring arrived before I could do anything about it...
Details here: https://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/compulsive-bike-light-fettling-ultimate-road-set-up/
The only thing I've changed since is switching the polarity of the battery because the original power socket that I used was a bit too loose, but all the other ones I've tried make a connection between the outer part of the connector and the metal case of the light, which in turn is earthed to the LED or driver board (I forget which one, but either way it doesn't work with the centre negative lumicycle polarity).
Strap on the 80 is rubbish. I’ve snapped two. The old band mount was vastly superior and still used on their bigger lights. I’d avoid the rubber mounted cat eye lights. The lights themselves are very good. Easy to charge , just remove the rubber end cap and insert into a sub socket.
It was the metal fork crown mount for the SafeRide60 that snapped for me; my two SafeRide80 handlebar mounts are still intact. As mentioned above, it was a shame Philips stopped making these, but it at least allowed me to get the second for £35 when discontinued. Might look into an external feed bodge, as 90 mins on full power is the limit IME.
Could look at the Fenix BC25R. Its not StVZO, but it claims to be a proper cut-off beam.
B&m icon premium. Good light, good run time and uses AAs.
Yikes! That new Ixon is a bit pricy. The old Ixon Core was under £40, and good enough to use on unlit country roads.
The SJS web page says not for export outside the UK, which suggests it is not a German standard beam?
Ixon Core from Bikester £46 delivered. Beam's a bit narrow for my taste, but perfectly usable in a rural commute.
Details here: <span class="skimlinks-unlinked"> https://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/compulsive-bike-light-fettling-ultimate-road-set-up</span>/
Thanks for that, will have a proper read.