You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Not much choice left on Paulscycles at the moment and I can't really wait till June for a RT57 and the RT58 is just out of my budget sadly.
I love my 1988 steel bike but the position is beating me up abit.
Ideal would be NOS- upto £1200 MAX with decent wheels and a decent Shimano groupset on (105 upwards)- carbon frame/forks.
Where-what? Recommendations 🙂
[i] but the position is beating me up a bit[/i]
How so?
Its a very 80's racey position- on hands/weight forward. I guess I need a fat-knacker higher bar height position.
ride it more and get some core strength.
[i]Its a very 80's racey position- on hands/weight forward[/i]
The position's not really changed over the years, even on a 'modern' bike your arse is going to be higher than your hands. Can you raise the stem?
Failing that, work on your core strength so you support your weight with that, rather than your arms.
I am riding it more and more. I've got great core strength too. I can plank etc for ages.
The position's not really changed over the years
I test rode a bike recently- it was like night and day interms of position (and weight difference).
I also test rode a composite Giant Defy which was way too high- more like a mountain bike. So a middle-ground is good.
Raised to the max-marker (quite high).Can you raise the stem?
[url= http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-gb/bikes/model/2014.giant.defy.1.blue.black/11833/66133/ ]Giant Defy[/url] (the 1 is 999) is the standard STW answer. Wouldn't get too worked up about it being an alu frame and not carbon, it's a lovely riding bike. Get down a Giant dealer and sort out a test ride and see how it compares. (Ah, I see you already have.)
I also test rode a composite Giant Defy which was way too high- more like a mountain bike. So a middle-ground is good.
Right size? Properly fitted? Usually sent out with a big stack of spacers under the stem.
Honestly, you might just need to get used to it. It's (obviously) a very different position to an MTB.
What size?
Giant TCR Composite 2 at Rutland for £1150 but in XL. Carbon with Ultegra/105.
Got a pic?
Just buy my frame & forks. Just think of all that carbon goodness.
Hang. Heres a pic from when I first got it- fitted two new tyres and proper Spds since.
I'm 6ft2.
Just buy my frame & forks. Just think of all that carbon goodness.
you'd be mad to sell that. Lovely. I want a full build though as I can't be arsed building a road bike. I think I got as far as a pair of wheels and gave up.
By the way, on the current bike you could get a [url= http://www.wiggle.co.uk/deda-quill-stem-adapter/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&utm_source=pla&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=uk&kpid=5360422709 ]quill stem adapter[/url] and add some spacers, a different stem and more contemporary bars, which could make a big difference (aesthetics aside.) I've done something similar to my old road bike that's used as my turbo bike.
Edit: Having said that ^^^, I still agree with this...
For heavans sake don't upgrade this, leave it alone, buy another bike.
Boardman Carbon Comp?
I have that as my Winter bike and it's been bloody fabulous.
You could look at eBay for some great "hardly" used deals, even some shops offload slightly off the peg models..
I'd agree with your bike not fitting. You are improving and stretching a bit more and finding, finaly, that's a bit small for you.
For heavans sake don't upgrade this, leave it alone, buy another bike.
Dolan L'Etape? Build it up to your spec on the website.
Lovely riding bike & they aren't far from you in Ormskirk.
Mad maybe but I think I fancy a change f&f, wheels & tyres £290. Have a go on it next time we are out for a ride.
It'd never get built. Conversely if someone sold me a mountain bike frame it'd be built up by that evening.
Mad maybe but I think I fancy a change f&f, wheels & tyres £290. Have a go on it next time we are out for a ride.
What are you selling Rod?
Edit: and hora, is this just your way of crying off tomorrows ride with a bad back?? 🙂
I know you said there's not much left of Paul's, but had you spotted this? Seems to tick all your boxed;
http://www.paulscycles.co.uk/m7b0s6p4324/CANNONDALE-SYNAPSE-CARBON-105-2012
all this crap people trot out about keeping the uncomfortable bike and improving your core strength. It;s the same sort of bollox as skiers would spout 15 years ago talking about how you needed skis body height + 10 cm or whatever it was.
Ignore them and buy a comfy bike.
And I'd be cautious about the Boardman. I tried one in the carpark and it was hideously uncomfy. I nearly bought it anyway thinking all road bikes were like that. Luckily I didn't, bought a Domane instead and it's brilliant. Best bike I've ever had.
Raleigh Avanti race full carbon f&f with Shimano RS20 wheels.
verses- I'd saved that on my tab favourites before starting the topic! Only prob is its a 56. Not sure how Cannondale Geo works?
hora. my caad8 is a 56 too and we're roughly the same height? Be spot on for you that (I'd have one like a shot).
If I make it out tomorrow chuck a leg over it.
And they've got 54 and 58 too??
Good point, dont know where I got just 56 from. Oky doke 😀
And I'd be cautious about the Boardman. I tried one in the carpark and it was hideously uncomfy
LOL.
all this crap people trot out about keeping the uncomfortable bike and improving your core strength. It;s the same sort of bollox as skiers would spout 15 years ago talking about how you needed skis body height + 10 cm or whatever it was.Ignore them and buy a comfy bike.
he’s had the bike a couple of weeks, get a few hundred miles under the belt (and lose some of the flab) and your position will get lower and the neck/arm ache will go as you get stronger/lighter/fitter and the bike more comfortable (if it’s the right size/geometry for you)
by all means get an upright nodder bike if it’s just a 30mile pootle to the pub but looking at the pic there’s hardly any saddle to bar drop at all.
I tried one in the carpark and it was hideously uncomfy
This made me lol a little too.
There's such a range of adjustment that can be made to a bike provided the frame size is a reasonable choice. Even if you get one that's comfy now, over time you can swap the stem (different length, rise, drop), change the bars (shape, width), fiddle with the stack height, saddle position (fore/aft) and height, change the saddle for a different shape, shifter positions, crank length. You'll be lucky to find one where everything is right for you off the peg though. And all these things you will probably want to tweak over time too if you are new to it all.
Though given there is so much scope for adjustment, this is probably not bad advice...
Ignore them and buy a comfy bike.
I tried one in the carpark and it was hideously uncomfy
Maaaaaayyyyte, c'mon. 😆
Ok, so I love uncomfy bikes? You are right of course, I'm a roadie, I ride road bikes fast, I like them aaard me. 😆
Anywhoo's looks like his Highness is going for an Alu D'ale, good choice, great bikes.
Of course he simply has to slam the stem and stretch out, cleary don Lycra and deffocate in the bushes.
Enjoy playing Sagan Hora. 😉
by all means get an upright nodder bike if it’s just a 30mile pootle to the pub
I managed the Fred Whitton on an upright nodder bike. A Boardman hybrid. Not sure it would have been anything like as pleasant on one of those curly handlebar Boardmans though.
Sorry, I'm going off on one again. But I did genuinely feel that the Boardman road bike was pretty uncomfortable. And if Hora is the type of person to stop at the pub half way round a 27 mile training route then I think he will too
Merlin groupset and wheels.
Chinese frame, bars and seatpost.
Job done.
But I did genuinely feel that the Boardman road bike was pretty uncomfortable.
Does it have those nasty curly bars? You could always fit some risers and bar-ends. Or just turn the stock bars upside down... 🙂
Is the saddle level on your bike? Putting too much weight on the wrists? Reach too far? Road bikes don't have to be uncomfortable.
How can a Defy be "too high". I don't follow. The BB on mine is 0.75cm higher than my Propel. I can't say I've really noticed the difference at 27mph in a bunch. And bars can drop a lot lower than my relative -7cm to the saddle.
EDIT Slamming a stem on the CAAD8 😆 . I had to do that just to get my (modest) bar position. It's the only slammed bike I've ever ridden 😉 . Great bike provided the BB30 is greased properly.
How can a Defy be "too high". I don't follow.
Clearly you haven't met hora, have you?
I adjusted the shifters up 1.5mm on my Propel this morning. And removed the pea from the mattress 😉
Bikes with identical set up and geometry don't feel so different. Making them identical is my OCD.
TiRed, if your reading I've got a question. I've got a Boardman at the minute, which I believe is the same geo as the TCR, which I ride with 20mm of spacers. I'm looking at buying a Defy and wondered what size stem your running as the stock M/L bike I demoed had a 100mm and about 35mm of spacers and felt very upright and a bit cramped like hora says.
Sorry for the thread hijack.
100mm and about 35mm of spacers and felt very upright and a bit cramped.
I bet if you chucked 25mm of those spacers away and put a 120mm stem on it would be transformed.
Only thing wrong with a quick demo is, you don't get a chance to sort out those personal preffences which make all the difference.
Kind of my thinking to be honest, though it was a paid for 2hour demo that they wouldn't let me make any changes 🙄
fathomer, ride a ML TCR here. A 5mm spacer under a 110 stem with a 6 degree drop, seatpost 50mm from min limit. I'm 6ft with fairly long limbs. Definitely not upright, though do ride with pretty much a 90 degree bend at the elbow when on the hoods. I can see some thinking the position is a bit cramped, but I like my bikes on the smaller side.
though it was a paid for 2hour demo that they wouldn't let me make any changes
That's pretty crap.
Wot about Ribble? Maybe not as good value as Planet X but more customisable builds.
I'll second the Ribble, especially in terms of value for money. I have a new sportive racing which is a great bike for me, although I'd happily change it for a R872 if I could afford to right now, but the Spitfire is taking up all my spare cash as I've been without a mtb for the last 6 months now after selling them both when I broke my arm in 2 places and I've only been given the ok by the physio to start weight training and mtb again a month ago 😀
Ive just done a 100 miler on an 'upright nodder bike' without any problems. Not all of us want or can have a saddle 10" higher than the bars, my bars are 5mm off being sat on the headset & my saddle is only 65mm above the stem. Short legs and a 44cm frame mean i can only drop the bars so far.
mrblobby - thanks for that, I'm 6' with a 34" leg, so simalar size. I'll be having a bike fit after purchase as well.
You are right, that world champion optimised boardman geometry is identical to the tcr. Frames are made by Merida who also have their own bikes - with the same geometry, who'd have guessed?
teen1 had a boardman in medium. I started my racing on that and then i bought a used medium tcr with a 100mm stem as i am 5 10.5". I raced this and went for a medium Defy with a 115 stem because the top tube is 1cm shorter and the head tube angle is half a degree slacker. Hence the extra 15mm. I have a 7cm drop from the saddle and have about 1.25 cm of spacers on the Defy and 2.5 on the tcr.
I upgraded to a Propel as the tcr was damaged in a race. Another medium, but a 110mm stem to match that perfect Defy geometry. That has about 2cm of spacers. All three bikes have the same contact point distances.
For your height, a m/l Defy and a 110 stem should be a good starting point. Shops don't like messing set ups for demos, and stock, the spacers will all be under the stem. Moving out 2cm os spacers will move the bars lower and about 0.5cm further away. So it might feel cramped as is, but adjustment is easy and worthwhile.
I agonised over frame size as i am between the med and med/large for the defy. And i have an ISP, so once cut, it is mine. Medium was the right choice. M/l would be for you. With about 1 cm of spacers, based on your boardman.
Stop telling the OP to MFU; I started my road riding career with a 1990 Harry Hall in Columbus SLX, one of the most respected steel tubes ever and it was horrible, it had a short tall position and was as harsh as hell to ride; after 40 miles I felt beaten up.
Any carbon bike will ride like a dream after that; I FOUND a nearly new 1996 Roubaix dumped in a stream, took it to the Police and a month later they gave it back. That was what really started my road cycling off. Since then I've graduated to a 2013 Roubaix Comp - OK, and now a 2014 Roubaix SLR, which is quite staggeringly good and waaay different to the 2013 model. If I was the OP I would be looking around for a decent carbon endurance bike, second hand. Leisure Lakes in Bury have a 2006 Roubaix Comp with brand new wheels for around £800 and it doesn't have the witness cracks in the paint that mine developed after 5000 miles.
after 40 miles I felt beaten up.
My backs fine- no aches/etc. Its my hands/arms. Its very harsh on the front. I guess if I had carbon at least with some cushioning under the tape it'd be fine. I did this with a Fuji track bike for years.
If I was buying again I would be looking for an oversize headtube and full carbon fork on the spec.
Modern bikes seem to allow for a wide range fitment, I have two road bikes different sizes but the bars, seat and pedals are in the same place on both.
Colour and styling is importnat to me I like a bike thats pleasing to look at.
Ride handling is a difficult one, I can usually discount a bike on a short test ride due to its angles or more likely because it has a short top tube(latest tricross for example).
The frame qualities I would look for are- a stiff non flexy bottom bracket and removal of that energy sapping road chatter you get at speed on bad road surfaces which is difficult to gauge on a short ride.
Also factor in for some new wheels(basic fulcrums or mavics) as the OE ones are invariably rubbish.
Having said all that the £999 giant defy alu sl was a the best bike for buck I spotted when doing the rounds recently.
Versatile too with well hidden mounts for racks and guards which you may not want now, but never say never.
A bit sportier is a the Allex sport also in aluminium(with some fancy welding) but with a full carbon fork and 105 for £1200 very light.
If you can beg borrow or steal a bit more cash then the new Cervellos look lovely but are around 2k.
One other thing, my mate is currently clocking up 50+ mile rides at 20+mph on a croix de fer built up with 29er parts and 35mm marathons.
God help us when he gets something carbon but it does support the "its not about the bike" argument.
the new Cervellos look lovely but are around 2
I'd have to start dealing/selling drugs to afford 2k.
The trouble I had when I bought my first road bike was that I did not know what I wanted. You don't really know about fit until you've ridden for a few long rides. All I had was MTB background so I ended up with a too long TT to which I had to fit a short stem. So buy cheep, work out what you like/don't like, and then splash the cash.
One other thing, my mate is currently clocking up 50+ mile rides at 20+mph on a croix de fer built up with 29er parts and 35mm marathons.
this!
Unless you need something competitive, get something comfy and rack-up the miles! Guess a cheapish steel frame (520/525 type stuff) is only going to add a pound or 2 or so over something plastic. Nothing really that the gained fitness of many miles on something comfy won't overcome. Ribble, Genesis etc..
One other thing, my mate is currently clocking up 50+ mile rides at 20+mph on a croix de fer built up with 29er parts and 35mm marathons.
Have something very similar as a run about, but my road bikes are so much more enjoyable when it comes to lots of road miles.
Great to prove a point to people.
However what about just enjoying the best that you can buy for the job at hand and then enjoying it more?
We all can't be modern-day versions of Miyamoto Musashi who actually enjoy using lesser materials to beat everyone.
Doesn't need to be fancy. My old Trek alu winter road bike brought from a mate for about 250 quid (was about 500 quid new) is still a much better proposition for big road miles than my flat bared run about that cost about a grand to build up.
Great to prove a point to people.
Can't really see what point you'd be proving or who you'd be proving it to 🙂
At your budget you might be into 725 or 853 possibly somewhere, so would be lovely.
eg an equilibrium 20 has 725 tubing and 105. RRP is about £1300, so should be had for less somewhere.
I don't think these are the wooden swords of the road bike world 😉
Great to prove a point to people.
I dont think hes proving a point just riding what hes got.
Have fun choosing and riding your new bike.
Ribble have some good deals on road bikes. Although it might not be to every bodies liking
Take a trip over to Decathlon in Stockport and have a go on some of the road bikes there.
At the top end of your budget there doing the Btwin Mach 720, full carbon frame/fork, Full Campy Centaur groupset & Khamsin wheels.
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/btwin-mach-720-road-bike-id_8289115.html#avantages
As someone has pointed out to me, full carbon/ultegra is available at Planet-X for a grand.
IHN - Member
As someone has pointed out to me, full carbon/ultegra is available at Planet-X for a grand.
Not all carbon is the same...
Is Planet-X carbon less equal than others then?
Not all carbon is the same...
True, but not that relavent, the P-X does well in reviews so is 'good' carbon.
in the tradition of recommending your own bike, how about a cube agree pro?
£979, full carbon, mix of shimano 105 and ultegra.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cube-agree-gtc-pro-compact-road-bike-2013/rp-prod111918
I just bought one of the 2012 cannondale synapse 105s from Paul's cycles and can highly recommend it
Unless you need something competitive, get something comfy and rack-up the miles! Guess a cheapish steel frame (520/525 type stuff) is only going to add a pound or 2 or so over something plastic. Nothing really that the gained fitness of many miles on something comfy won't overcome. Ribble, Genesis etc..
don't know why this keeps getting trotted out, I've got a good steel bike and a carbon bike, the carbon probably has the edge on comfort, is stiffer, lighter. faster and the big one "more fun".
Comfort is dictated by fit not material. Old steel bikes were comfortable. Modern carbon bikes are comfortable, but lighter and stiffer; hence more efficient.
hora, If you are uncomfortable, I suggest fit is the issue. Too much weight on the arms, for example.
I have or have owned steel, titanium, carbon and alloy. All have been comfortable when correctly fitted. They didn't all start off that way.
I haven't followed the thread all the way through, but I recently bought this after having a pretty stiff alu Airborne Thunderbolt:
Bloody love it!
I'm 6' and the 58cm is bang-on. Short TT, mix of 105/Ultegra, Aksium wheels, Easton kit and a lovely 'floaty' carbon frame. Best of all was £470 to boot. No complaints whatsoever 🙂
Just get measured up properly
