 You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Hey 😉
Just building up my new (to me) road bike, the LBS only had 'cheapy' brake cable outer so that's what I bought, however, pulling the lever feels sticky, grindy and generally quite awful (the outer doesn't have a teflon/plastic liner, just the steel spiral) ... So I want to change it, I would prefer to buy an item that will last hence thinking about Nokon.
Would you say they are worth the investment (using an ultegra groupset) or would something like Gore or Goodridge (I believe i've seen them for road bike levers??)
thanks in advance 😉
jt 😉
I have Gore gear cables on the MTB and they are fantastic, fit and forget 🙂
I use Shimano Dura Ace cables on the road bike and they are also silky smooth and seem to be lasting well however I don't ride the road bike in the rain so much.
Nokon work well and can noticably improve braking power, BUT,
They have a number of disadvantages you should be aware of before trying.
The finish scratches easily, and rattles if you dont use some sort of bumpers on them (the silver finish corrodes worst)
they can creak, but a wipe with a light lube usually stops that.
Nokon use a slightly thinner inner wire, so other aftermarket cables, while they just fit, have a lot of friction inside the teflon liner.
Having said all that, I use them and am fairly happy with them.
STD shimano is fit and forget IMO.
Nokon are total and utter s.h.i.t - avoid.
Best solution is just to use a good quality cable with full length outers. I'm sure that suggestion will be judged as heresy in road circles 😉
Why on earth would you use full length outer on a road bike?
What was your problem with Nokons?, Heather Bash
edit,oh aye!, and you are a heretic BTW 🙂
Dura Ace cables on mine, never had any problems with them, super smooth.
Durace will be fine - they aren't expensive. I'd avoid Nokian unless you have some particularly tight curves on your brake routing. They work but can be annoyingly rattlely.
Nokon are good if you have a tight radius (I have an Airborne with cable stops on the headtube - all other cables just split because of the angle here). However, they come with one silver link in each run which has the Nokon logo on it - these completely corrode over a winter's use, and then you need to put the whole shebang back together again.
>Why on earth would you use full length outer on a road bike?<
I know - what a heinous crime. Consider the comment tongue in cheek - I actually far prefer chopping them up and leaving the entry points open to the elements...
Didnae get on with Nokon at all - you listed some of the disadvantages yourself Westkipper but I certianly didnt achieve better shifting performance and found them very high maintenance.
HB, I totally agree with them being more hassle than their worth for gears, add to the list- floppy, droopy cables, but I would only use them for brake runs where their low compressiblility does have a wee effect.
My road bikes just have standard Campag brake cables, while I use Gore on the MTB I've never really felt the need for them on the road bike.
Had Dura-Ace on mine but after some front mech shifting issues I replaced with Gore ones and am pretty impressed so far. Easy to fit (one I figured out the "long ferrule" in the instructions was actually the inner guide) and shifting seems a bit improved (especially on the front where the trim function works properly now to). I wouldn't say it's worth changing existing working cables for them but if you're buying new cables anyway I think they're worth the money.
I run Alligator i-link.nice aand stiff, not floppy!
http://clee-cycles.co.uk/cc/catalog/index.php/cPath/61_63?osCsid=f5ac781b1ca857aaf7cdc01c68b2294f
I-links are much better than Nokons, but still not worth the hassle IMO, just get Dura Ace.