Reverb Stealth inst...
 

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[Closed] Reverb Stealth install problem

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In the process of installing a Reverb Stealth and as per the instructions on my bike manufacturer's website I disconnected the hose at the post and fed the hose through the frame from the top of the downtube and up the seat tube. All good so far.

However, when trying to reconnect the hose to the bottom of the seat post I've hit a problem. As per the pic below, I assume the hose strain relief is meant to be connected to the hose barb, held in place by the spring washer? And shouldn't have come off?

Assuming that's right, I don't have a tool to compress the washer to allow me to put the hose strain relief back on.

Any ideas? Links to a suitable tool? Or am I better off taking it to my LBS to sort?
[IMG] [/IMG]d


 
Posted : 14/09/2015 10:04 pm
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I don't know why they say disconnect the post end when it's easier to disconnect the remote end instead! Not sure how to help here though sorry


 
Posted : 15/09/2015 6:35 am
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Much easier to thread post end through seat tube


 
Posted : 15/09/2015 6:39 am
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Really?

Undo remote attach the red thingy old gear cable threaded down seat post attached to red thingy and pull through. Attach remote. No tools required


 
Posted : 15/09/2015 6:57 am
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On your original question - yes that part shouldnt have come off. Warranty job so back to the shop.


 
Posted : 15/09/2015 7:17 am
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+1 much easier to just remove the remote end.


 
Posted : 15/09/2015 7:33 am
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Thanks all. I've contacted the seller about a replacement and will disconnect from the remote end next time. Don't know why manufacturer (Comencal) suggest disconnecting at the post.


 
Posted : 15/09/2015 9:54 pm
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That looks like a connectamajig...and appears to be installed wrongly now. When the replacement arrives, use the connectamajig properly as it is by far the easiest way to disconnect and reconnect.


 
Posted : 16/09/2015 5:53 am
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Don't know why manufacturer (Comencal) suggest disconnecting at the post.

They recommend it because if you don't break it 😉 then its the best way to do it. That method has a valve which prevents air entering the system, unlike removing the remote which can lead to a bleed. Its mainly designed for manufacturers to allow for quick fitting of the post, but its handy for punters too.


 
Posted : 16/09/2015 7:32 am
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The connectamajig is all fine and dandy (assuming you have one) but I can't thread it through the guide on my Whyte so disconnect at the remote. (Of course my lovely Bird frame came with soft rubbery bungs I could probably squeeze it through if I tried 🙂 )


 
Posted : 16/09/2015 8:16 am
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Of course my lovely Bird frame came with soft rubbery bungs I could probably squeeze it through if I tried

I got the local LBS to fit mine after I damaged the cable near the conectamajig (I had to get the cable replaced). They didn't fit the rubber though. I took a sharp knife and sliced the bottom of the bung, wrapped it round the cable and squeezed it in (with the help of a pointy thing). It looks better and doesn't clog with mud now 🙂


 
Posted : 16/09/2015 10:17 am
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Of course my lovely Bird frame came with soft rubbery bungs I could probably squeeze it through if I tried
Yeah it will, the port and grommet are sized to be as tight as possible while still allowing you to get the connectamajog through. Works best if you get it wet first to ease insertion 😉


 
Posted : 16/09/2015 11:01 am
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Wouldn't it have been easier to remove the rubber grommet and thread it separately, then insert it back into the frame afterwards?


 
Posted : 16/09/2015 11:08 am
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That is certainly the way to do it but when the grommet is rigid plastic like the Whyte ones the connectamajig isn't going to go through regardless.


 
Posted : 16/09/2015 11:18 am
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get it wet first to ease insertion

I use a little silicon lube that does the job better than water.


 
Posted : 16/09/2015 11:20 am
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My Whyte isn't rigid plastic...all rubbery softness and work a treat...


 
Posted : 16/09/2015 8:58 pm

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