 You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Got a new style reverb c1 with the 1x lever remote
It's been totally solid and perfect over winter and into spring no issues at all
But just recently after swapping frames over, the lever has a load of play when the post is depressed
So press lever all the way in to get post to highest point and then there's half a inch or so of free play in the lever till you sit and weight the saddle, then you can feel the lever go back to solid
Is this normal? Just don't remember it happening from new, I've bled the system both ends and it's still the same, I've checked air pressure and used vent valve again all fine
It was worse in the slowest speed setting loads of lever throw once used, so I changed it to about half way, then it seemed better and more solid, but now it's back to how it was in the slowest setting, on todays ride if I dropped the post or put it back up half way I could then squish a fair bit of travel down the post again, until I press it back up to the top, sit on it/pressure it then is solid again at the lever...
Any ideas if you understood any of that 🤣
Not sure - but did you set it to the slowest setting when you bled it?
Yep checked and checked again, and it was bled like that from the off too
I was thinking there maybe a kink nearer the seatpost end as its a 200mm drop, but clearance is fine and the hose looks fine
Bleed wise at the remote there was no air bubbles once I got used to how it works
But it's still exactly the same
The lever just isn't solid after using it it has free throw but as soon as I put pressure on the saddle it goes back to firm, I can live with that I guess but it doesn't answer why today half way down the post I could squish it a good 2 inches or so without using the lever
Weve experienced this on one of the bikes we built up earlier this year and only after bleeding for a third time was it fixed .we've done a fair few prior to this one without issues and a few since but for some reason this one had us stumped and on the third bleed all sorted .
Big bud - really appreciate this reply
Low and behold I didn't give up, as I knew it wasn't right but wasn't doing a lot wrong either
Havign never bled a reverb before (or anything else to that matter) it Was a learning curve so probably didn't do the first bleed exactly right anyways
But I did it again on the lever alone, no improvement, so then did the full bleed again, a bit better I could see the lever getting more solid with doing a full bleed from the post itself
Then 3rd time 3rd full bleed, seemed to get the knack of it and actually really quick process and it seemed better still, got mrs to hold the lever for the remote bleed whilst I got rid of the bubbles and it seemed to take a while shift the excess bubbles but persisted
Happy to report it feels bloody nice and solid and lever returns more or less straight away now, it feels like new
One last question as I cannot see it anywhere, how much oil do you put in the syringe seatpost end to start with? And by end of process for the seatpost bleed should there then be no more oil in the seatpost syringe and it all in the lever end? So totally flushing it all through or leave a tiny bit in the seatpost end?
In response to the fluid in syringe question I think the advice is to leave a little in there to minimise the risk of pushing air into the system.
On another note I recently swapped out an old button for a 1x. I've done a full bleed and several lever bleeds but the lever return is still quite slow (it has got better). Is it just a case of persist with more bleeds? (I also think the cable is bending more than it would like in the seat tube so I may swap the connectamajig hose for a barbed one)
Another note, it's really annoying to have to hold in the lever syringe, and on occasion a relaxation of pressure has let in air, on bleeding edge brakes the syringe connects without this issue.
The lever bleed didn't cure it for me on its own, I tried a few times and the bubbles were non existent, but it was still the same
It was only when I got the courage to do a full bleed seatpost end I started to get somewhere, first time didn't do it very well, 2nd was better and I could see it was gettign better, and the third time it seemed pretty much solid, I just suggest giving it a couple of full bleeds post end then doing the lever, that's all I've done with no knowledge of bleeding at all and touch wood it seems to have worked
It's very awkward tryign to draw pressure on the lever string whilst depressing and tryign to keep the the syringe in place, I did it a few times on my own, but the final time when it worked best had the wife do the lever whilst I concentrated on the syringe, much much more successful
But how much do you start off with in the post syringe? Full, half or so many cl's doesn't really say anything anywhere that I can see
Glad you got sorted - from recollection I usually start with 3/4 of a syringe at one end and 1/4 at the other end...
Yes, syringe wise pretty much what timbog said, with more in the post end pushing up to the lever.
I can live with the lever return as it is at the moment (as mtb is only getting trips round the local parks with the kids at the moment). I think I'll order a new hose (or a hose barb if I have enough hose to cut off the connectamajig) to solve the kinking issue first and this will require a full bleed anyway.
I just watch the videos from SRAM on YouTube for the full bleed process but have found that it needs more than one full bleed to get right. Done it on two bikes now and the lever feel is great with lightning fast seatpost return speed.