I've got Hayes 9 brakes and possibly foolishly I'm thinking of replacing the pads myself.Anybody want to try and describe how to do it to somebody with 10 thumbs?...
Before you replace the pads, do a bit of preemptive maintenance & push the piston all the way back in (needed anyway to fit the new pads), make sure the pistons are flush with the caliper. Then pump them out again, to confirm they are both working. If (?!) you find one is stuck fast, zip tie the working piston/pad to the caliper so it can't move, in order to force enough pressure to get the other one working.. Use a large flat screw driver to force the pistons/pads back, & once moving, cycle them a couple of times to make sure their working properly. You need to have the old pads in while you do this, as 9's have a pin in the centre of the caliper that the pads locate on, if you snap it, you need a new piston.
...and back to the actual question, with the pistons fully flush to the caliper, remove the pad furthest from the fork leg, by pushing the fitting tab (bit of metal sticking out he bottom of the pad) towards the pad the other side, when 'angled' pull it out. Repeat with the other side in a similar fashion. Then fit the new pads in the opposite order, inner pad then outer..
I may have made it sound difficult, but its not.
Good idea to check both pistons move as above and to squeeze them back fully before taking yhe old ones out. They do need to be right in in order to let the spring click in. Get the right & left pads sorted as they are different. Do not force them really hard as you can snap the posting pin off. You get a satisfying click when it's reet.
Pretty easy though & good to know how to do it.
[url= http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hayes+9+pads&oq=hayes+9+pads&gs_l=youtube.3...1571.5814.0.5953.16.16.0.0.0.0.103.1222.15j1.16.0...0.0...1ac.1.11.youtube.eJWZDCfmUdc ]Youtube Search: Hayes 9 Pads[/url]
Excellent, Singletrack comes good again thanks chaps! 🙂
I'll give it a go, the worst is that I have to take it to the shop if I make a cats a*se of it which I was going to do in the first place so definitely worth a go.
Cheers chaps just did it, worked a treat with your tips! Thanks again, saved me £20!
Nice one! Unless you find some miraculous long life pads or ride somewhere without mud or dust, it is worth learning.
I rate the Superstar sintered pads BTW.
I put in Nukeproof trail ones so I'll see how they go. I am embarrassed to admit that the old ones were pretty much down to the metal... 😳
I think I'll check the back ones now too, thought my braking was a tad suspect at the weekend 🙂
Why be embarrassed about that? Thats when you need to change them, not when there grinding metal on metal or after a set amount of mileage. There ain't a huge amount of meat on bike brake pads in the 1st place, run em down as far as you can in my book
You have to be careful with 9s. They have a nasty habit of firing the pads out of the back and ripping the pad locator off the piston when you run them low.
When I say pretty much down to the metal I mean I could have used them as shaving mirrors 😀
When you are pushing the pistons back take care that the rubber bung on the master cylinder dosnt shoot out. Lost one of mine at the the top of Brazilian in Verbier and one of Abigales at the top of another long downhill
Further to my post last week about replacing pads and as a lesson on maybe checking pads more regulalrly I thought I'd share this photo of the old ones...
[url= http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3682/8764460612_2feabc8c1b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/27031865@N00/8764460612/ ]Think I need new brake pads...[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/27031865@N00/ ]stu_laidlaw[/url], on Flickr
